looking for owners of 2004-2005 Pace Arrows

[Jim_Bakker]

I'd like to make contact with others who own one of the new (2004, 2005) Pace Arrows so we can share experiences, problems, good things, etc.

[FreshAir]

Jim
Sounds like you've had your share of jack problems. I carry a socket and drill for that nut should I have to do a manual retract. I have been able to get mine going by spinning the nut a few times then push the retract front and retract left side buttons at the same time and let it slam and ratchet a few times trying to retract while in the full up position.

What's involved replacing a head? Special tools, time wise, etc. When replacing can you see the bad gear? Also where are you buying the head and is $250 the normal price? A spare might just be a good investment.

I had to tie one jack up once, left front, replaced under warranty.

Pat

[Lobstah]

Thanks. That nut is the manual extend/retract nut. You put a 1/2" socket on it and 500 revolutions equals 1" of movement, up or down.
Just climbed under mine this morning, can't move it with the manual nut...so gears are stripped. Same problem I had with my left rear.
Time to order another head. At this rate, I think I'll order two. I think I paid about $250 the last time, so might just start travelling with a spare.
This is ridiculous though.
If I didn't have a garage full of tools and wasn't afraid to dig into stuff like this, I can't imagine how many thousands of dollars I'd have spent so far at a service center. The main controller was $500, would have been $1,000 from Atwood. Jack at service center was $1500, so there'd be 2 of those now...all in all I bet I'm up to $5K of charges just on the jack system.

Jim

[FreshAir]

Jim,
Something quick to try with the jack. On the bottom of the jack motor there is a flat nut apx 3/4" wide. With your fingers, spin it a few times and then try it. Also there is a large connector plug going to the jack on the top side of the motor. Wiggle or replug it. I'm assuming you have the electric jacks and haven't already tried this.

Also there is a complete jack reset procedure available if you need it. I have the same highly intermittent problem with the same jack position.

Pat

[Lobstah]

Will be looking at that fix as soon as I get back home.
Meanwhile, I have another Atwood jack failure. Left front wont extend. What a crappy product these Atwood level legs seem to be.

Jim

[sawellman]

Thanks Jachinator and Freshair. I was able to locate the angle iron and all my screws were broken and/or gone. I made the suggested repair/fix and will take my RV out next weekend to verify this solves my problem. (I sure hope so because the moving/squeeking dash bugs me A LOT!). Thanks again for all your help.

[FreshAir]

Seems like someone once posted a pic of the location?? I couldn't find it.

Best position to see the black 1" angle iron that is welded to 1" square tubing is on the drivers side as there are less cable bundles obstructing your view.
The angle iron, which has the small undersized screws, runs vertical and is spot welded to the square tubing also running vertical against the firewall. The angle iron is attached by the screws to fiberglass body.
On my Pace, when I lift the hood I can put my thumb on the side of the hood opening and with my fingers extended,reach in at about a 45 degree angle towards the side of the coach and touch the angle iron were talking about. Same thing on passengers side.

I replaced orig. screws, some were missing, with much larger, I think 1/4" hex head screws. Can't remember length. I also drilled and added more. Like said before, be careful on length as you don't want to screw thru fiberglass side.

Jim, I don't know how you would jack up the body to fix this. Maybe the whole thing is at rest where it should be and the stress is greately reduced now. If everything looks OK and seems aligned alright, it might be best to secure it where it rests now with larger screws?

[Jachinator]

I took some pics and when I figure out how to post them I will. If you send me your email I can send them to you. I'm still learning my way around this site. Thanks Jachinator

[sawellman]

Jachinator - if you could take some pics and send/post I would really appreciate it! I looked under the hood today and was not able to locate what your describing (there is a wiring harness running down the left side....are the screws and angle iron under the harness on the left)? The angle iron screws into the wood of the back of the dash...correct?

[Lobstah]

I have this issue also, glad to see it brought up here. Are there safe ways to jack up the "body" to realign the screw holes? I think mine is about an inch too low.

Jim

[Jachinator]

Sawellman, I have fixed two Pace Arrows that had the same problem. First you have to locate the tech screws that they use to secure the dash. Sometimes they are buried under black chalking. The screws more than likely have worked themselves out and are missing or stripped out. The holes should be on the black angle iron that is mounted to the dash, very left corner, about 1 inch wide. You have to find one of the holes to see if you are lined up correctly before you reinstall with bigger tech screws, not longer(could puncture the outside of your RV. I also drill about 6-8 more holes and insert more screws into the angle iron and the wall of the coach. This has fixed the problem on two of my pace arrows(2004 & 2006). I hope this helps, sorry I don't have any pics. If I get a chance I will take some and post.

[sawellman]

Squeeky & Moving dash (on passenger side) - i know this has been talked about before but I was hoping I could ask for anyone who has solved this problem to send me a private message with pictures. I have seen posts about replacing screws under the hood to reinforce where the dash connects to the structure braces. i have looked but dont see this.

Any help and/or solutions of how to keep the dash from moving/squeeking. (I have already put a 2x4 brace under the dash and multiple L brackets under the dash...but it still moves up & down and squeeks).

[Lobstah]

Gary,
Really sorry you're having such a tough time. My mh is back in my driveway now, and repairing my fogged windows are at the top of my list. Materials are available on Amazon, and from what I've read and had shared with me by members here, it just doesn't seem to be that difficult of a task.
My windows only have screws into the frames on the inside, not sure if you're is different than that. Take the screws out, pull the interior frame off, and the window should pop out from the outside pretty easily. Might require 2 or 3 folks due to size or weight, but nothing that's not manageable.
My plan is to pull one window, take it into my garage and lay it on a table for disassembly/reseal/reassembly, then reinstall.
I would think that if you didn't want to seal them yourself, once you remove the window you could take it to a glass shop and have them cut the seal, clean the glass, replace the seal, and send you on your way, and for a whole lot less than $500/window.
That's just crazy talk.

Jim

[Parrotguy]

Fogged windows:
The first guy who said he would replace the glass, from Chula Vista, did not show up for (2) appointments and then would not return my calls. The second and only other person who said they could do this in the San Diego area was Heckman Glass. They came, measured, took a $500 deposit, and said they would have the windows repaired in LA, then they would re-install them. $375 - $500 per window depending on size and whether it had a valance. I called yesterday, they decided to not due this work anymore. They had customers with fit problems. They said they would mail me my deposit.

As a last resort I made an appointment for monday at our Fleetwood dealer, Holland RV, now at the old Beaudry RV site in San Marcos. They say they will remove the whole window and frame, ship it to LA to be repaired, and re-install - $500 per window - but there might be a 6 month backlog.

I'm pretty disgusted. I don't think I can do the install myself. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Gary

[Lobstah]

They may have just used them on long slides. Our 36D has that 22' slide on the drivers side. Once retracted, another set of motors kicks in and moves two arms out at the top corners of the slide, one by the drivers seat, they other back in the bedroom. Takes about 30 seconds for them to come all the way out and lock in place.

Jim

[Phelangroovy]

Hi Jim, No there are no "ears" that pop out or LEDs. I just drive the slide until it stops, this is how I was shown by the tech when we bought the rig.

Eddie