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Mounting my angle iron for my mudflaps on my Class A

dmctlc
Explorer
Explorer
First let's start off with a Happy 4th of July to all. Next I'm looking for some input and perhaps some Pics of how they mounted their angle iron to the rear of their Class A MH. First I will say I have a 2018 FR GT5 31L5 and I guess I felt it would be a no brainer to mount this once I got it so didn't look to closely at areas to mount it to on the rear of the frame but now that I have it and look underneath I've come to the conclusion the only way to mount the aluminum angle iron need to mount the mudflap to is to either weld it to the frame or drill holes into the frame to mount it. Both not ideal things to do. So I'm looking for some suggestions and Pics if possible (because we all know Pictures speak a thousand words) on how other's mounted theirs. I also like to know how far back and how high off the ground it should be. I hear 4" off the ground is the norm to keep rocks from pummeling my toad.
Thxs to all
Dana & wife Terri
Daughter - Stephanie
Granddaughter - Callie (9 y/o)
Son - Phillip
Granddaughter - Charlotte (1 1/2 y/o)
American Cocker Spaniel- Shadow
2018 Georgetown Series 5 GT5 31L5
5 REPLIES 5

tropical36
Explorer
Explorer
dmctlc wrote:
First let's start off with a Happy 4th of July to all. Next I'm looking for some input and perhaps some Pics of how they mounted their angle iron to the rear of their Class A MH. First I will say I have a 2018 FR GT5 31L5 and I guess I felt it would be a no brainer to mount this once I got it so didn't look to closely at areas to mount it to on the rear of the frame but now that I have it and look underneath I've come to the conclusion the only way to mount the aluminum angle iron need to mount the mudflap to is to either weld it to the frame or drill holes into the frame to mount it. Both not ideal things to do. So I'm looking for some suggestions and Pics if possible (because we all know Pictures speak a thousand words) on how other's mounted theirs. I also like to know how far back and how high off the ground it should be. I hear 4" off the ground is the norm to keep rocks from pummeling my toad.
Thxs to all

I'm going to go out on a limb here and assume that we're talking about a full length rock guard and not wheel mudflaps, as per say.
If so, the best way is to just hang it on two chains, using swivels and if there's any angle iron to be used then mount it on the guard itself. Also attach some small wire cable loosely and on the front side from the frame and to where the chain attaches to the guard. This to limit the swinging, but with enough slack in allowing it to go horizontal, if need be.
I've seen more complicated and permanent type mounting, but should only be used with non-solid products, otherwise you'll tear it up on a low place or on some other obstruction.
How far back depends on a good place for hanging it and it can be as low as 2" when the coach is level. Again it should be able to ride over most anything, in some fashion or the other.
"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."

07 Revolution LE 40E_Spartan MM_06 400HP C9 CAT_Allison 3000.

Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER.

1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Chevy Model 6350 (Sold)

OLYLEN
Explorer
Explorer
On trips to Alaska you see people dropping the long mud flap and keeping the flaps from just behind the duals. The long one throws rocks on the toad. Even the grass looking ones.

LEN

SageCrispin
Explorer
Explorer
Probably too late if you already have the mud flaps, but we have always used a Protect-a-Tow. No mud flaps. Others of course feel differently I'm sure.

Also, I believe I have been told that manufacturers prefer people to drill frames rather than welding. Again, others may have more or conflicting statements about this.

Just some options, take or leave....
We've run out in the house, but the RV has two.

Damon Challenger.
Jeep Unlimited toad

georgelesley
Explorer
Explorer
I did ours myself. Not easy to do it all depends on what else is in the area. I used the supporting frame for the grey tank on one side and that flap is shorter. On the other side I had to fabricate a frame and bolting it to whatever existing framing I could find. That flap is longer. No one but me knows that because it is not apparent unless one gets down and specifically looks at it. If anyone really wants to do that they are welcome to do so.

I did not mess with the frame and do not recommend you do that. Rather than drill into the frame I would suggest making a "pinch" bracket like the rear track bar add ons do. I would post pics but I just find posting them on this forum to be very difficult for me to do, and since every installation is peculiar to that coach would not likely help much anyway.

It also depends on what you are using for mud flaps. I just removed the across the back rubber flap and cut it into mud flaps and used the angle iron that it was mounted with for framing. I think I may have bought one short bit of angle iron to finish things up. If you do not have a across the back flap to work with you will have to buy commercial flaps and be prepared to modify (cut) them.

The best offer I can make you is that if you send me or post some pics of the area behind your wheels perhaps I can offer suggestions and then via email send you pics of my installation. Good luck.
George 20 yr USAF & Lesley

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Moved to Class A forum from 5th wheels.
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine