My 2004 MH needs better brakes

[Big_Redneck]

I bought a 2004 MH and drove it home today. A few rattles here and there as usual I guess. Now the brakes? They need looked at. It was just inspected but the brakes are soft and it takes a good bit of force to use. I don't like that. Any of you ever had this problem? I am going to upgrade them so where the best place to get them? I haven't checked anywhere yet. That the first thing I am going to do. It a Winnebago Sightseer 28 foot, 2004 with 35,000 miles. I backed it in the garage so I can wax it. The inside is very clean. It has jacks levelers which is nice to pull the wheels to work on it.

[Big_Redneck]

I did flush the system with Dot 4 and the front brakes are new and every thing up front is ok. BUT the rear brakes are shot and someone turn the rosters to thin and they have been very hot and warped. Every thing in the rear replace with new. That about it for now. Have not readiest as yet. next Tuesday. Will let you the outcome on this project. $$$$

[atsrmf]

I had brake problems similar to what you describe. I replaced the calipers, rear cylinders, front and rear brake hoses, master cylinder, and then flushed the entire system. No change in stopping, which was no good.
Then I discovered 2 sections of brake line that were somewhat hard to see, and each had a 12" section of brake hose to allow flex between the body and frame. I had new 2 brake hoses custom made, since replacements are not available. The difference is NIGHT and DAY! Now the motorhome stops like new, and the distance the brake pedal moves has been reduced significantly. From the outside the hoses looked fine, by the way.
Change all your hoses when doing brakes.

[J-Rooster]

Ken, good to hear from you again on the post! I would call a workhorse shop and ask if there still doing the Bosch/Workhorse brake recall. Bosch supplied Workhorse with many faulty brake calipers! There is a website on Winnebago Recalls you will have to google search to find it. If your coach is according to your VIN on the recall list the Workhorse Shop will have to replace your calipers free of charge regardless of how long it has been! Workhorse then forwards the charges to Bosch who were originally responsible for the problem. Although Workhorse is not currently building RV chassis there in business and doing well building package cars for United Parcel Service! Rooster

[RVER]

I was NOT the one that wrote about what Chum LEE has me saying. I SAID to NEVER have your tires off the ground using your levelers. IF you have to level with wood and then put the levelers down to stabilize the unit but never have your tires off the ground, read the manual for your rig.

[Chum_lee]

RVER wrote:

Never said to be crawling around under there and when I use the jacks to raise for working, I always set a floor jack in there, as well.
Tell me though and when have you ever heard of a coach come slamming down to the ground, with a jack failure? Maybe a slow and leaking down process, but slamming down and not leaving any appreciable ground clearance, next to never, but then I've never been one to say never.
There's a lot of campgrounds in America alone and there's thousands upon thousands of coaches with their front wheels in the air, as we speak. As for strength, they're plenty strong and will hold a lot more than the coach, if truth be told and just as long as a hose doesn't burst. They have to be, cuz in terms of liability, misuse of a product, is indeed, the use of a product.

Several years ago in the AZ desert, a boondocker camped next to us had a 40' DP with the front wheels off the ground due to fully extending the leveling jacks and using 2X8 blocking beneath the pads. After a particularly gusty, cross windy night, my neighbors decided to depart at sun up. Their front jacks wouldn't retract because both the pistons were bent. No problem, two days and $2,500 later they were on their way.

Chum lee

[Big_Redneck]

Well the Motor Home is in the shop to have the brakes taken care of . Will let you know how it goes. You fellows been a great help with this problem. Thank you again.

[atsrmf]

Be sure to take a pressure reading at each bleeder valve after flushing the fluid. This will tell you if the system is working properly and is balanced as designed, you should get around 1200 PSI as an example. It is similar to taking a voltage check at a panel. Replacing the wire may not solve the problem!

[tropical36]

RVER wrote:
Tropical36 if you take a look at your owners manual it says NEVER lift the tires off the ground with the levelers, Front levelers can fail and when that happens the rig would slam to the ground and move forward and can conceivably kill someone. THEY are not that strong. YOU cAn level with wood and then stabilize with the levelers so you can be level. I have been on sites that it takes time to get it level but never will the tires be off the ground. I carry wood with me to drive up on if need be with very unlevel site.

Never said to be crawling around under there and when I use the jacks to raise for working, I always set a floor jack in there, as well.
Tell me though and when have you ever heard of a coach come slamming down to the ground, with a jack failure? Maybe a slow and leaking down process, but slamming down and not leaving any appreciable ground clearance, next to never, but then I've never been one to say never.
There's a lot of campgrounds in America alone and there's thousands upon thousands of coaches with their front wheels in the air, as we speak. As for strength, they're plenty strong and will hold a lot more than the coach, if truth be told and just as long as a hose doesn't burst. They have to be, cuz in terms of liability, misuse of a product, is indeed, the use of a product.

[RVER]

Tropical36 if you take a look at your owners manual it says NEVER lift the tires off the ground with the levelers, Front levelers can fail and when that happens the rig would slam to the ground and move forward and can conceivably kill someone. THEY are not that strong. YOU cAn level with wood and then stabilize with the levelers so you can be level. I have been on sites that it takes time to get it level but never will the tires be off the ground. I carry wood with me to drive up on if need be with very unlevel site.

[Big_Redneck]

I was reading theOwner's Manual and the MH has Dot 3 brake fluid now. I did buy 3 quarts of Dot 4 to flush the system out and replace. I will have to let them know when I do get it service down the road. Monday the garage is going to let me know when they can flush the brake system. Thank again for helping me through this. In Oct. I plan on going to Hershey in Pa. for the car meet and swap meet.

[tropical36]

RVER wrote:
NEVER use your levelers to raise the tires off the ground, NOT MADE TO DO THAT, NOT SAFE!!

That being the case, many coaches across the CG's of American and Canada wouldn't be level, when set up and that's definitely not good for RV fridges.
I agree with not ever raising the rear and losing the effectiveness of the parking brake, but with the fronts, I don't see the problem, as they can well handle the weight.

[RVER]

NEVER use your levelers to raise the tires off the ground, NOT MADE TO DO THAT, NOT SAFE!!

[tropical36]

All I could afford wrote:
And many times, replacing the rubber flex hoses at each wheel with stainless steel braided lines can reduce the feeling of spongy brake pedal

I agree with changing out the flex lines and for saving a lot of pain later on, when they decide to collapse inside and if not already working on it.

[Big_Redneck]

I found a repair shop that will flush the brake fluid and service the brakes. I got 3 quarts of Dot 4 brake fluid and Caliper grease for the Calipers. I AM ALSO CHANGING THE BRAKE PADS. They said the middle grade not the most expensive grade because they will tear up the roters Today I am going to NAPA to get Stainless Braded brake hoses for the 4 Calipers.