New 06' Executive Owners... Ride Home

[Ocean_Mist]

Spent about 1 hour looking over the coach and proceeded with the purchase. Drove home over 2 days, and although had a few issues, it was a great, safe and memorable ride. What a Coach...!

The seller was gracious and we had a fun time learning about our new coach.

Aqua-hot is low on is it Boiler fluid? and I forgot to ask how it works.

The Seller was not very handy and usually pays for everything to be done, which is fine. I am more detailed, and now the fun starts...

I did here some metallic noise going over bumps at low speed. I think it may be the rubber bushings and the rubber in between shock absorber where they attach to the frame...?

It does porpoise a bit on dips at high speed.

When i raise the TAG, It does not lift off the ground is that normal?

The steering seems loose, and requires a lot of correction. And, when an 18 wheeler passes me on the left, my Rig pushes to the right and I have to correct to the left but the steering is loos and so i have to correct again because it goes to far left. It doesn't feel like it's accurate. It's like loose. I understand it's an RV, but what are normal steering issues that i can repair/replace to make steering and chassis like new again?

I notice that while steering, it is hard to keep her centered as she wanders left then i have to correct right. This is constantly, and requires to much attention to drive. What items can I have Source engineering do to correct these issues? I mean i see that Source has 8 Airbag Ride Enhancement kit, I wonder if they have a 10 airbag Kit...?

When i use the remote to lock the bays, i hear them click, but only a few lock...

The seller neglected to tell me that the tile behind the chair was cracked. I can only imagine it was when someone activated slide without checking if passenger chair was too close. There is tape covering the area, which i did not see until my road trip.

I would like to address these issues and more. Below are some ideas I'd like to do. Can you take a look and offer suggestions...?

1. I Will see if I can pressure wash the entire underside of coach to see about any leaks.

2. Gently spray greaser on engine and generator and rinse with hose. No Pressure water there...

3. Contact Source Engineering for replacing all shocks and ask about Ride enhancement Kit. anyone use Source?

4. Anyone upgrade their bushings?

5. I can feel the bedroom is hot when we stop. Anyone have a link to those fans that remove engine heat?

6. Any other things Inherent or I should be aware of?

[Ivylog]

I do what Mike's video suggests but just using the dash gauge. With the engine only idling and the air pressure building (tapped on brakes to bleed air off) I put the hose on when the pressure gets to 105. This gives aprox a minute with the pressure above 105 which is usually enough time to top off a front tire. For the other tires I increase the idle speed as their pressures are less than the compressor cut in pressure. Helps to have a chuck that holds it's self on.

[Mr_Mark1]

Mist,

The Booster switch will be on the dash, most likely on the left side of the steering wheel depending where your ignition switch is located.... and, it should say 'boost' or something to that effect.

I have the Porter-Cable 150psi pancake air compressor from Lowe's. Works very well.

I think the previous owner fibbed a little on his maintenance (taped antenna?). I think Redlands had it right on what the coach needed to make it right. I hope that your purchase price was set accordingly. 😛

Good luck,
MM.

[mike_brez]

Could make one of These

Updated version

[Ocean_Mist]

Ok, I'm thinking about these things here to equalize the pressure in the Duals...What do you think about em?


https://www.amazon.com/Cats-Eye-Pressure-Maintenance-Trailer/dp/B01N2L4IE1/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&i...

On to the Batteries...

I did Buy the 8 AGM LifeLine for the Coach

and

3 New Lead Acid Maintenance free Batteries for the chassis...

I will still try and find that BOOST switch you were talking about, and the procedure you mentioned above.

Sealed Roof using self leveling sealant

Cleaned out Batt Trays, and slide,waiting for graphite dry lube

Installed new Flying R for the wheels...(need to do fun stuff too...lol)

Tried to get air pressure from my Sears 150psi Air compressor that would only produce 105Psi...!!

Looking at a Vaair 400P for RV as a portable air compressor...

any of you guys carry air compressor on board? Which model?

Found a Broken CB Low profile antenna. Funny that the previous owner put Duct tape of top.. Must have been there long time because the duct tape glue was crusty...

Fixed straightened, clean sanded and polished MONACO Rear Flap

303 Fabric and Water repellent to all slide's Topper Material

Tightened side cameras and now they all work, but Rear Stopped working...:h

And more stuff of course.

[Ocean_Mist]

Ivylog wrote:
Where to start???
The BigBoy is the solenoid that connects the two battery banks together when you push the BOOST switch on the dash. It also lets the engine alternator charge the house batteries after it gets the engine batteries up to 13.4V. It's in the back run box on the right of the engine area...remove the cover and it bigger than a Coke can. You can keep your batteries up off of a 15A house circuit using a heavy duty extension cord if you turn most of the items in the MH...refer, ACs. You do not need 30A.

Once you get hooked to shore power and the Inverter/Charger has had enough time to charge your batteries...12+ hours you need to confirm which batteries are used to start your generator. Turn off the disconnect switch CCW on the side of the bay with the house batteries. Does the generator try to start? If not, turn it back on and try again. Which batteries start the generator?

If the generator starts, even while holding the Boost Switch, then I would not worry about cleaning the contacts on the cables going to the back of the generator.

Let us know what you learn once the batteries are charged and before changing them.

Thanks Ivy! This is all great stuff...

I'll respond better when I get More time...lol

[Ivylog]

Where to start???
The BigBoy is the solenoid that connects the two battery banks together when you push the BOOST switch on the dash. It also lets the engine alternator charge the house batteries after it gets the engine batteries up to 13.4V. It's in the back run box on the right of the engine area...remove the cover and it bigger than a Coke can. You can keep your batteries up off of a 15A house circuit using a heavy duty extension cord if you turn most of the items in the MH...refer, ACs. You do not need 30A.

Once you get hooked to shore power and the Inverter/Charger has had enough time to charge your batteries...12+ hours you need to confirm which batteries are used to start your generator. Turn off the disconnect switch CCW on the side of the bay with the house batteries. Does the generator try to start? If not, turn it back on and try again. Which batteries start the generator?

If the generator starts, even while holding the Boost Switch, then I would not worry about cleaning the contacts on the cables going to the back of the generator.

Let us know what you learn once the batteries are charged and before changing them.

[Ocean_Mist]

Ok first what is the Big Boy? (i think it's engine area)

So, I want to take all the connections apart after I take picture's so I know how it goes back.

This is pretty basic stuff, but if Our Monaco is notorious for generator starting problem, what do i need to do?

the generator started really easy our first trip out for the first 2 days..

But regardless of that, is it better to use baking soda or coke?

And, in the old days I used sand paper.

So, should I cut into shrink tubing at the ends to see if they are getting the green stuff?

And, if I need new cables, any battery shop has them?

Got to go to work, see yall later 😛

[Ivylog]

X2 on above post and my generator starts off the engine batteries. Bad connections is a known Monaco generator starting problem. Corroded contacts in the BigBoy is another and wire brushing the contacts is all that needed to fix.

[hypoxia]

IMHO you may be moving too fast. The "battery" issue may not be the batteries, at least I did not see a post about testing each one.

It is common in that coach (and mine) to need all of the battery connections to the starter and generator including the ground connections at the chassis cleaned. It is an easy job which takes a morning to do but it's importance cannot be emphasized enough.

The cable ends may have the green crud growing on them also which is not visible until you remove the shrink insulation at the ends.

My concern is one I have personally witnessed with Lifelines; the very best batteries being damaged due to charging problems that should have been addressed first.

Personally, I would do the job above and also remove the Big Boy to dissassemble and clean its contacts before installing the Lifelines. It is very easy.

I have seen a bunch of new batteries damaged due to those types of problems when folks go the easy route.

Do the maintenance with the old batteries, check the system for a few days before installing the Lifelines. Let the old batteries take the beating.

[Ocean_Mist]

Hey There Guys. Well, I did contact LifeLine via Email, and they responded quickly. They forwarded me a Dealer in my area, and upon contacting him, and about $232 ea. x 11

I should have 8 New AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) I actually spell it out for my benefit...You know, so I can remember...lol, here on Tuesday the 10th.

I will do the heavy lifting, so I can pressure wash area, after baking soda, and a new coat of paint.

Curious...The guy told me to take my cable ends and instead of sandpaper to dunk them into a glass of Coke...

smlranger wrote:
Personally, I would avoid Camping World. I would not let them change the oil in a lawn mower.

Ok, That's a Big 10-4 ...lol Just say no to Camping world...

Mr.Mark wrote:
Ocean, you could press the Battery Switch that connects the chassis and house banks and while holding that button, press generator start to see if that works.I will eventually locate that switch...lol

Your battery cut-off switches should be in the battery compartment (ours were), I'm sure Dennis will verify. I did find them. Two 1/4 turn switches. The top one is for...? and bottom one? Again for me to remember what I need to look for...

You owner's manual has a lot of good info inside! LOL!
Reading is one thing, retaining is totally different...haha

You guys actually read the manual...
:B

Safe travels,
MM.

[Mr_Mark1]

Ocean, you could press the Battery Switch that connects the chassis and house banks and while holding that button, press generator start to see if that works.

Your battery cut-off switches should be in the battery compartment (ours were), I'm sure Dennis will verify.

You owner's manual has a lot of good info inside! LOL!

Safe travels,
MM.

[smlranger]

Ocean Mist wrote:
Thank you for the information! :W I can't thank you guys enough.

New problem, The City Police just cited me for parking the Rig on the Street in front of my parents house. The statute is "any vehicle over 20'" It can be parked there but just for actively loading

So now I have to park it in front of the tenants houses, in another city.

Have a Cement guy coming today for estimate to keep Rig on my side access.

The side acess may only be 4-5" thick. Wonder if it will crack...? :h
I would consider making sure your paver creates a good compacted base under the slab. That seems to be as important as the thickness of the slab. Just make sure whomever does the work has some knowledge/experience pouring slabs for heavy vehicles.
In addition to that, the Generator won't start. It turns over slowly and then stops. It seems that the coach batteries are not strong enough to turn over generator to get it started...

I have not had it plugged in due to no 30 or 50 amp service, however I will get 50 amp installed at my house soon.

So, I heard that there are 2 Rear shut off switches to disconnect the coach from parasitic loss... Does anyone know where they are?
I have two battery cut off switches in my battery compartment. The chassis switch was installed by CC and I installed the house battery switch. In my experience, shutting off the house battery switch inside the coach (salesmans switch) does not really isolate the house battery from parasitic loads.

Also, when i leave the Rig, I press the master cut-off switch on the passenger side as Im exiting. With 8 Coach Batteries, would they drain down that fast?

I don't have any lights on during the day, and only used slides a couple of times...

Oh well, I have to go somewhere to change out batteries. Is Camping world any good for batteries? There is also a place locally here called Allied Trailer And Coach Works.

Is there one or two brand name of AGM batteries I should look for?
Lifeline makes great AGM batteries. You can look on their website to find dealers in your area. I used Full River AGM's which I purchased from a local golf car dealer. He recommended them to me and I have been very satisfied with their performance. Personally, I would avoid Camping World. I would not let them change the oil in a lawn mower.

[Ocean_Mist]

Thank you for the information! :W I can't thank you guys enough.

New problem, The City Police just cited me for parking the Rig on the Street in front of my parents house. The statute is "any vehicle over 20'" It can be parked there but just for actively loading

So now I have to park it in front of the tenants houses, in another city.

Have a Cement guy coming today for estimate to keep Rig on my side access.

The side acess may only be 4-5" thick. Wonder if it will crack...? :h

In addition to that, the Generator won't start. It turns over slowly and then stops. It seems that the coach batteries are not strong enough to turn over generator to get it started...

I have not had it plugged in due to no 30 or 50 amp service, however I will get 50 amp installed at my house soon.

So, I heard that there are 2 Rear shut off switches to disconnect the coach from parasitic loss... Does anyone know where they are?

Also, when i leave the Rig, I press the master cut-off switch on the passenger side as Im exiting. With 8 Coach Batteries, would they drain down that fast?

I don't have any lights on during the day, and only used slides a couple of times...

Oh well, I have to go somewhere to change out batteries. Is Camping world any good for batteries? There is also a place locally here called Allied Trailer And Coach Works.

Is there one or two brand name of AGM batteries I should look for?

[wolfe10]

Actually, I would go one step further. I would NOT adjust tag pressure/weight except with scales as a tool.

I know we did "all wheel position weighting" at one of the Diesel RV Club Rallies as the rally gift. 100% of the tag axle coaches "failed" and had to be adjusted. One took three go arounds. The adjustment IS sensitive.

Ideally, the same percent of GAWR will be on each axle when you are finished. But allowing no axle to go over its rating.

It can make a real difference, not only is safety (no axle or tires overloaded) but also in handling and ride.

[Executive45]

OceanMist...that knob to adjust the tag is sensitive. VERY SMALL adjustments are necessary. BEFORE playing with it, get your rig aligned, then weighed. That way you'll know IF the tag needs to be messed with. It may be ok as is. I only adjust mine if I need to AFTER having it weighed.

I thought you received the build sheet on that coach from Monaco..??? If so, the AH will be listed, Model and Serial numbers.....Dennis