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Problems Dometic Elite dual fuel refrigerator RM7732

GlennLever
Explorer
Explorer
We have a Dometic Elite dual fuel (electric / LP) side by side refrigerator Freezer in our 1997 American Dream, Model RM7732.

It works great on electric but has been reluctant to start on LP. Once started it runs fine. (LP detector is on in the coach)

It usually takes several attempts to start it on LP. By this I mean you turn it on and after a short period of time the check light comes on.

When you start it you can hear a solenoid click, but never hear the LP fire up. When you check out side you can smell LP.

Once it does fire it runs fine for the whole weekend.

I have given up on RV service centers as they do not seem to repair things correctly.

The chimney is clean, I believe it is a problem with the igniter.

Is there someone that can walk me through a check out procedure to identify the failed component?

I am handy, have tools and multimeter.

Just found this, Service manual for RM7030 and RM7732
26 REPLIES 26

GlennLever
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:
Your control module is current design. Doug


What do you think of the thermocouple?

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Your control module is current design. Doug

GlennLever
Explorer
Explorer
So I had some interruptions but did start working on the refrigerator this afternoon. Had the manual with me Service manual for RM7030 and RM7732

(Note, this PDF is tied to a web site and is a pain in the neck to try and read on the computer, I printed it out so it does not keep asking me if it is ok to go to that web site)

Page 4 trouble shouting item 5 No Gas operation / operates on AC It wants you to go to section 6 LP gas which is missing from the manual, so .... I went on my own and this is as far as I got.

This is the outside cover.



Note the edges, it appears the whole cover has been removed at some point.

See that paint around the perimeter has been cracked.



The access bolts were turned 1/4 turn and the center cover was removed



The bolts that hold the wind guard plate in place were not accessible.

I removed the three screws across the top, popped of the covers of the screws on the side and removed those screws, and removed the two screws on the bottom of the outside access cover.

The outside frame had been glued in place so I used a box cutter to cut the silicone that had it glued in place and carefully pulled the outside frame off. It was not easy.

What you see hanging from the opening is the silicone that was in between the back of the outside frame and the side of the Motor Home.



There was also a very thick layer of silicone between the base plate of the refrigeration unit and the outside wall of the motor home. I pulled this out as well. I will clean the steel frame , paint and reseal when I put the unit back together.



Note, the chassis, motor home batteries were shut off, the motor home shore cord was not plugged in and the generator was not running, the gas valve was shut off.



So now the access cover has been removed, the outside frame has been removed, all the silicone has been scraped an removed, now we can get to the screws holding the wind guard in place.



Wind guard has been removed, we can now see the flue, the gas solenoid, the electric heater (in my case there are two electric heaters)





The paper tag says not to try and remove any nuts without using a back up wrench, see below.

The cover on the burner is just snapped into place and is easy to remove.



The electrode is held in place by one screw and is also easy to remove, pretty dirty.





Time to remove the entire burner unit and to do so the gas line needs to be separated, note the back up wrench used to keep from twisting the gas line.



Here is the burner unit removed, not really all that dirty.



Now I can get a close look at the thermalcouple. The end was burnt right off.





Here is a shot looking right at the end of the thermal couple, look close, it is in the center of the picture and the only thing in focus.



I'm not sure this is the problem , the symptom I should have with this is the unit should fire up, and then when the board does not see the thermocouple signal it should shut down. What I get is the unit gives me the check light, and if I retry several times it will then work.

It does need to be replaced so I called Dometic, they need the unit number, serial number, and model number.... 921 1480-08, 61900342, RM7732, they supplied the part number 2931826024, price was $50.00 with a minim shipping cost of $25.00.

I did find one e-bay, a part labeled as 2931826016MC for $26.00 but I believe in name brand parts so the Dometic part is on the way (it was in stock and will be here in two days, by normal UPS)

It was suggested that by dougrainer (one of those Service Center Techs), that I check the control module.



He said to Look at the epoxy that the resistor and such are mounted in. IF the Epoxy is Yellow/Beige, REPLACE the control module. Dometic had bad modules 20 years ago and the symptom was intermittent check light and no fire on LP. If the epoxy is greenish, then your module is current.

I did not find any epoxy, this is what the board looked like.



This is as far as I got, tomorrow I will clean up the parts I have removed and see if I can get the unit to fire.

More to come

I_rv
Explorer
Explorer
on mine (same model) it was the flame sensor,it is incorporated in the spark igniter,(spark electrode)very easy to change and inexpensive. good luck.

Heisenberg
Explorer
Explorer
Doug's suggestion of replacing the "epoxy" board worked on my 1996 Dolphin. I got the same runaround and $100 for a Dinosaur board ended three years of part time LP operation of my Dometic Refer. I got the tip on one of these threads when all I had was dial up internet back in 2000 or so and traded the Dolphin last year with a perfectly working Dometic.
2013 Winnebago Sightseer
2017 Colorado

GlennLever
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:
Take the black control module cover OFF. Look at the epoxy that the resistor and such are mounted in. IF the Epoxy is Yellow/Beige, REPLACE the control module. Dometic had bad modules 20 years ago and the symptom was intermittent check light and no fire on LP. If the epoxy is greenish, then your module is current, look for a dirty burner, bad spark electrode or bad re-ignitor. Doug (one of those Service Center Techs).


Thanks, Doug (one of those Service Center Techs), I appreciate the tip. I'm sorry I have such a low opinion of service centers, but I have had several BAD, experiences.

I know there are excellent techs out there and a few BAD apples spoil the whole barrel. I used to own a auto repair shop, fired 21 people before I found the people that I wanted to man my shop.

I wish there was a crystal ball that told which ones were good.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Take the black control module cover OFF. Look at the epoxy that the resistor and such are mounted in. IF the Epoxy is Yellow/Beige, REPLACE the control module. Dometic had bad modules 20 years ago and the symptom was intermittent check light and no fire on LP. If the epoxy is greenish, then your module is current, look for a dirty burner, bad spark electrode or bad re-ignitor. Doug (one of those Service Center Techs).

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Start by cleaning the burner area and orifice. Soak the orifice in alcohol(rubbing not drinking). Make sure that the ignitor/flame sensor is positioned correctly.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

GlennLever
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Could be as simple as needing to purge propane line (placing a demand on LP regulator to establish flow).
Turn on stove top burners on high......let burn for 30 seconds then see if fridge will lite off on propane first try.


Could be dirty burner slot..disrupts propane flow out of burner

Could be spark electrode not properly positioned and gaped. Should be directly over main flame and have a gap of 3/16" (tip of electrode to burner)

Could be dirty spark electrode.......electrode is used to send a milivolt signal back to circuit board to prove flame. If dirty could have good spark but no return signal.

HERE is a service manual


The water heater (LP) is working fine (line purged)

GlennLever
Explorer
Explorer
Ok, I will start on this project Monday as I have three upcoming trips and would like it working. I will keep you posted.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Suspects:
Maintenance, routine maintenance includes cleaning of the burner and the gas jet, There is a spider that likes to nest in the jet

Theromcouple: In this case it does light, but it does not know it has lit also burner adjustments may be off a bit so the flame is not hot enough.

Control board.. This can prevent it from lighting.. had that go bad on both furnace (Failed to detect flame) and water heater (Refused to ignite)

IF the control board is the culprit, consider Dinosaur Boards as a replacement.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Could be as simple as needing to purge propane line (placing a demand on LP regulator to establish flow).
Turn on stove top burners on high......let burn for 30 seconds then see if fridge will lite off on propane first try.


Could be dirty burner slot..disrupts propane flow out of burner

Could be spark electrode not properly positioned and gaped. Should be directly over main flame and have a gap of 3/16" (tip of electrode to burner)

Could be dirty spark electrode.......electrode is used to send a milivolt signal back to circuit board to prove flame. If dirty could have good spark but no return signal.

HERE is a service manual
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31