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Propane Issues in Cold weather

Dutchman_31
Explorer
Explorer
Having problems with our heater when temperature is below 30 degrees F. We noted little or no gas flow on our water heater and stove as well at the same time. When the coach and ambient temperature warms up the problem goes away. We had the propane tank filled and everything operated properly. When we woke up the next day the same thing occurred again. Thinking there may be moisture in the propane tank? Anyone experiencing a similar issue? Regulator?
11 REPLIES 11

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Boiling point for propane is -42.5 c (-43.5 f)
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

77rollalong
Explorer
Explorer
One problem with propane is its boiling point, your tank pressure varies directly based on the tank temperature. AT 0 deg F you only have a tank pressure of 24 Psi, and if you draw off vapour faster than the propane will Boil the pressure will drop even more. the only way to get the tank pressure up is using a tank heater. At 60 deg f the pressure goes up to 92 Psi and will boil a lot quicker.

Community Alumni
Not applicable
Assuming that there is no moisture in the propane causing the regulator to freeze up, I will add to the recommendation for replacing the regulator. I have camped in sub-freezing temperatures and all the normal propane appliances (cooking, heating and hot water) continued to work. It is possible that if propane is consumed at a high rate, the liquid evaporating in the tank can cool down below ambient temperatures. At 30º F the vapor pressure in the tank is only 51 PSI and at 0º F the pressure goes down to 24 PSI. The typical RV has a two stage regulator with the first stage reducing tank pressure to about 10 or 15 PSI and the second stage delivers presure at 11" WC (about 1/2 PSI.) This regulator should be able to keep up with the BTU demand of all the propane appliances on the RV. I had a similar problem, but at the opposite end of the thermometer. The temperature was in the high 90s and the temp on the road was even higher. I estimate that the propane tank pressure was about 170 PSI. The hot water heater would run, stop and after relighting would run out of gas. The BBQ grill attached to a separate 10 PSI regulator ran fine. Turning off the main tank and bleeding off the pressure and tapping on the regulator with the handle of a screwdriver, the gas worked for about a day or two but stopped. Replacing the regulator solved the problem. Your milage may vary. In extreme cold conditions an tank heater would help. I heard from a co-worker that up north, some propane retailers add methyl alcohol to the mix as an antifreeze. Maybe someone can weigh in on that. One more thing to check is a surge check valve that maybe built into the system somewhere. Some connctors on portable tanks have those. The idea is that if there was a break in the line, the high flow rate would shut off the flow. The problem there is if the check valve is bad or the BTU demand exceeds the check valve, gas will cease to flow. Then you have to shut off the pressure, purge the lines and then start over again by SLOWLY opening the tank to avoid a rapid flow through the check valve and you are back to where you started. I had a work truck that had high BTU heated ventilators for tents and underground vaults. The safety people ordered the wrong equipment that when the temperature dropped, everything froze up. This is why I use gasoline or diesel generators in the winter. One time I actually put an electric blanket on the propane tank.

PSW
Explorer
Explorer
Try this trick during the day when it is above 30ish. Turn off the valve from the propane tank and light a burner to reduce the gas pressure in the lines down to the point where the flame is flickering. Turn off the burner. Open the valve SLOWLY for a quarter turn and wait a couple of seconds. Continue to open it SLOWLY until it is fully open. Then leave it open regardless of temperatures.

Trick #2 (and some may caution against this because they won't read the word "lightly"). With the valve fully open LIGHTLY tap the regulator with something LIGHT like the handle of a screwdriver. Don't bam or wham it. Tap it gently two or three times and see if that helps.
PSW
2013 Phoenix Cruiser 2350
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2chiefsRus
Explorer
Explorer
we had a similar problem when our propane tank was overfilled. It was causing the regulator to freeze up because the gas was reaching the regulator while it was still in liquid form. We poured hot water on the regulator to unfreeze it and then it was fine after we used enough propane to bring it down to where it should have been filled to in the first place.
Dave & Kathy
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pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Might be Butane/propane mix. Might be a bad regulator.

Add some heating to the tank.

Butane boils at 30.4 F. Not enough flow at 36 F ambient to power the high demand items.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Regulator is issue...replace it
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Jim
Explorer
Explorer
Get a heating pad and place it on the tank. It'll be good as new.
Jim@HiTek
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time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Does sound like you have some butane. Although if the regulator is getting old consider a replacement. Propane dealer may be able to purge the tank or you can run it flat dead empty and refill.

Is Bridgewater in a southern state? Odd to get butane up north.

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
Regulators are not very expensive.

A "real" propane dealer probably could help too....including selling you a new regulator and installing it......if that's what it needs.
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Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
Perhaps you got butane instead of propane. Butane stops vaporizes at about 30 degrees above 0 Fahrenheit, where propane around 64 degrees below 0.

Dusty