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question about cleaning of rear radiator.

n4hwl
Explorer
Explorer
I clean my rear radiator often with simple green and sometimes with dawn. I recently used engine degreaser on my engine and it really got the oil and grease off. I got to wondering if engine degreaser would hurt my radiator. If it would not hurt I could spray the degreaser through the fan while the engine is running and warm, let it sit a while and then spray it with really hot water from the back. I have a feeling this will hurt the aluminum radiator or someone would have mentioned it before.

Ken
2014 Tiffin Zephyr
5 REPLIES 5

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
I certainly can't speak for anyone else but myself here and or their coaches and engine compartments. Many guys have claimed they've done a bang-up job of cleaning their radiators and CACs even after they've been clogged for quite some time. And they did it without removing them. I don't know what kind of job can be accurately done. I don't doubt anyone who's done it.

All I know is, my engine compartment, the sides, the undercarriage etc. is so entangled, constricted, sealed, etc. that there's really no possible way for me to have done a thorough, accurate, complete, job of cleaning either the CAC or the radiator. Now, I had to remove my radiator anyways because it had a leak in it. A leak that there was no way possible for it to be fixed while in the coach.

So, out it came. And I pulled the CAC too, along with many other parts etc. But, my point here is, my radiator and CAC were both hideously clogged for about 35% of the total area. The only possible way for me to have accurately, completely and thoroughly cleaned it, was to do it, where I could get very close access to the fins etc.

As stated, I used ZEP citrus based industrial cleaner and a 2650 psi pressure washer. Absolutely "0" damage to the fins, at all. It still took several applications of the ZEP and even the wand of the pressure washer.

Now, that was my scenario. Does it mean that everyone's is that caked on there and in the fins like mine, not necessarily so. It could be that mine had been there since the dawn of time and, was just extra hard to break free. If you can get it 100% clean without removing them, than that's outstanding.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

Horsedoc
Explorer II
Explorer II
When we had the Cat engine in a previous coach, I asked the people in Gaffney about an extension on the crankcase breather tube. They had the exact part needed and piped it out below the radiator. The tech said they could steam clean the entire radiator with no problems. They pulled the coach over a pit and cleaned with steam and hot water for a while. I have no idea what cleaner, if any, they used. I thought I had done a good job at the quarter car wash with hot water and soap. This guy made my puny efforts look so amateur that I was embarrassed that I THOUGHT I had cleaned it.
horsedoc
2008 Damon Essence
2013 Jeep Sahara Unlimited
Blue Ox tow

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
n4hwl,
You're getting good and pertinent answers here. One thing I'd like to ask is, how long have you owned the coach? Are you the original owner? What engine do you have and, where is the exit point of your slobber tube? The reason I ask these questions is, while you may be getting some gunk out each time you wash it, you may be missing some that's embedded in between the CAC and the rear face of the radiator.

If you've owned the coach since new, and have kept up on cleaning both the CAC and the Radiator diligently, then you're most likely in pretty good shape. You see, even if you were to use a pressure washer from the rear side, you'd most likely not get any of the gunk off the interior side of the CAC. You see, I had to remove both our CAC and the Radiator for service and doing other maintenance and, using ZEP industrial strength citrus based cleaner, and, a 2650 psi pressure washer, it took several passes to get all the gunk just out of the radiator.

The same with the CAC. As for your choose of what chemical to use, there's a zillion to choose from. The ZEP product I used was fine. I don't do a lot of them so, I cannot recommend any particular one. It seems the purple version of Simple Green seems to be popular.

If you really wan to know how good a job you've been doing, buy or borrow an "inspection camera" and snake it in there for a real close look. There was no way I could see how bad mine was without the use of one of those cameras. It really woke me up.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
Only relevant question is of what material is the CAC and radiator are made.

If aluminum, you need to use an aluminum-friendly product. If steel, it is not as critical-- but I would not use anything that is strong enough to take paint off!
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

smlranger
Explorer
Explorer
When I first got my previous coach, a rear rad DP, I also used some engine degreaser on the cooling pack followed by Dawn and lots of water. It really cleaned out the gunk.

I later was warned that the degreaser might not be a good idea for the aluminum radiator core so never used it again. I switched to the purple version of Simple Green (not supposed to be as hard on aluminum as the green Simple Green). Simple Green and lots of flushing with water once annually kept it clean.
2019 Grand Design Solitude 384GK 5th wheel. Glen Allen, VA