Safe-t-Plus

[3_dog_nights]

OK, we are going to add the stabilizer. Where's the best place to buy it? I'll have it delivered to my local mechanic for the install.

[Ivylog]

I would say it’s adjusted well as in “ideal conditions” no crosswinds or gusting winds on a Interstate you can turn loose and it stays in its lane BUT my previous rig would do that even when I had some crab because of a steady crosswind without any obstructions to decrease the wind. Now when crabbing if I turn loose of the wheel the STPlus centers the wheel and out of my lane we go.

14 years ago I educated myself to not oversteer my Dynasty...giving small inputs more time to take affect (even on windy days) making for what I’ve always called “Rock solid handling). My new rig handles well in ideal conditions but if not then I have to hold pressure against the STPlus that wants to center the steering wheel.

When I find a ditch I can straddle I’m going to slide underneath and unbolt it and report back after putting some miles without its help.

[Mile_High]

Ivylog wrote:
My new rig (08 HR Navigator) has one installed and is adjusted to where in ideal conditions it tracks straight BUT I’m finding it makes driving more difficult than the 88K miles I put on my 04 Dynasty without one. When a small amount of correction is needed (I adjusted the TRW box so no slop in it) unlike previously I now have to hold it there ( off center) as the S T Plus wants to bring it back to center.

I’ve read how great these things are about taming a wandering coach BUT the RR10S are great handling rigs without one. Other than maybe helping with a blowout I’m finding it’s a pain in my shoulder muscles. I noticed this in the first 1900 mile marathon from AZ to GA and now with 2500 additional miles I’m finding I’m less relaxed at the end of the day.

I’m thinking of marking where it’s attached to the tie rod and then remove and tying it out of the way to see if it’s me or it or a difference in my new rig. In gusty crosswinds I’ve found it takes more steering input than what I’m used to keep it going straight.

Excellent feedback, thanks! I was wondering how it would work in less than ideal conditions. I don't have wandering issues at all, but was thinking of the safety aspect. I would hate to pay money to ruin the ride and handling 🙂

Perhaps the Blue Ox TruCenter would be better, where I get to set the centering point with a foot switch.

TruCenter

[FloridaRosebud]

rgatijnet1 wrote:

Ivylog wrote:
My new rig (08 HR Navigator) has one installed and is adjusted to where in ideal conditions it tracks straight BUT I’m finding it makes driving more difficult than the 88K miles I put on my 04 Dynasty without one. When a small amount of correction is needed (I adjusted the TRW box so no slop in it) unlike previously I now have to hold it there ( off center) as the S T Plus wants to bring it back to center.

I’ve read how great these things are about taming a wandering coach BUT the RR10S are great handling rigs without one. Other than maybe helping with a blowout I’m finding it’s a pain in my shoulder muscles. I noticed this in the first 1900 mile marathon from AZ to GA and now with 2500 additional miles I’m finding I’m less relaxed at the end of the day.

I’m thinking of marking where it’s attached to the tie rod and then remove and tying it out of the way to see if it’s me or it or a difference in my new rig. In gusty crosswinds I’ve found it takes more steering input than what I’m used to keep it going straight.

Try using the pointer method that I described a few posts back and see if that doesn't correct your issue. If the ST is out of adjustment 1/4" you have to constantly fight it.

I used @rgatijnet1's method and it really did help. That said, I installed a Bilstein steering dampener (which is not self centering) and it pretty much eliminated the wandering in my RV.

Al

[rgatijnet1]

Ivylog wrote:
My new rig (08 HR Navigator) has one installed and is adjusted to where in ideal conditions it tracks straight BUT I’m finding it makes driving more difficult than the 88K miles I put on my 04 Dynasty without one. When a small amount of correction is needed (I adjusted the TRW box so no slop in it) unlike previously I now have to hold it there ( off center) as the S T Plus wants to bring it back to center.

I’ve read how great these things are about taming a wandering coach BUT the RR10S are great handling rigs without one. Other than maybe helping with a blowout I’m finding it’s a pain in my shoulder muscles. I noticed this in the first 1900 mile marathon from AZ to GA and now with 2500 additional miles I’m finding I’m less relaxed at the end of the day.

I’m thinking of marking where it’s attached to the tie rod and then remove and tying it out of the way to see if it’s me or it or a difference in my new rig. In gusty crosswinds I’ve found it takes more steering input than what I’m used to keep it going straight.

Try using the pointer method that I described a few posts back and see if that doesn't correct your issue. If the ST is out of adjustment 1/4" you have to constantly fight it.

[Ivylog]

My new rig (08 HR Navigator) has one installed and is adjusted to where in ideal conditions it tracks straight BUT I’m finding it makes driving more difficult than the 88K miles I put on my 04 Dynasty without one. When a small amount of correction is needed (I adjusted the TRW box so no slop in it) unlike previously I now have to hold it there ( off center) as the S T Plus wants to bring it back to center.

I’ve read how great these things are about taming a wandering coach BUT the RR10S are great handling rigs without one. Other than maybe helping with a blowout I’m finding it’s a pain in my shoulder muscles. I noticed this in the first 1900 mile marathon from AZ to GA and now with 2500 additional miles I’m finding I’m less relaxed at the end of the day.

I’m thinking of marking where it’s attached to the tie rod and then remove and tying it out of the way to see if it’s me or it or a difference in my new rig. In gusty crosswinds I’ve found it takes more steering input than what I’m used to keep it going straight.

[Mile_High]

They wanted over $700 to install at the Rally, and it required taking the coach over to an airport for the day to get it installed and tested. I found them on Amazon for less than $500 for my model so I'll probably just go that route.

[atsrmf]

I installed a Safe-T-Plus in my Class A in the driveway and did the centering myself. There is NOTHING to installing one of these and getting it adjusted correctly. You might need 3 wrenches and minimal mechanical ability and some sense of how steering works. My motorhome went from handling like a rhino on a wet clay bank to almost handling like a passenger car, all for $400. Do a Google search on the part number, then go to 'Shopping' for the best deal. This is not a cheap device, so don't expect a much of a variance in price, as it is worth every dime! The most I would charge to install one would be $100, it's that easy.

[RVER]

SAFE T PLUS are GREAT but make sure it is installed correctly and tuned correctly.

[deprived]

3 dog nights wrote:
Where's the best place to buy it?

It depends on the item, really. I've done well on Amazon, Ebay, RVUpgrades, PPL Motorhomes, etc.

All I can say is shop around.

[wolfe10]

Ya, centering mine has always required a test drive and then while on the road, use a wrench and small hammer to "tap over" the mount on the tie rod. We are talking about 1/8" adjustments. Very easy, and requires no special tools and nothing requiring much muscle.

And, maybe I am just being conservative, but the very few times I have ever had to take a coach (all DP's) in for an alignment, I just remove the two bolts holding the Safe-T-Plus on and reinstall it after the alignment. Were I to know the tech well or be in the pit with him, I probably wouldn't feel that would be necessary.

[rgatijnet1]

I adjusted mine by mounting a pointer on the dash in front of the steering wheel so that it was close to, but not touching, the steering wheel. Then I took the coach out for a drive on a good straight road, without too much crown.
Holding the wheel in the position where it tracked straight, I then put a mark on the steering wheel that aligned with the pointer.
When I got back home I used the front jacks to raise the front wheels off of the ground. Once off of the ground, and properly supported, I adjusted the Safe-T-Plus so that the mark on the steering wheel was in line with the pointer. That was it and 50,000 miles later it is still working great.

[dougrainer]

wolfe10 wrote:
One of the few (very few) places I would disagree with Doug.

I would have an alignment done FIRST (yes, assuming an alignment is needed). I would not assume that the tech would loosen the Safe-T-Plus to take it out of the equation and then recenter it (which often takes several tries)

Because of the centering force of the Safe-T-Plus, it can be used to mask alignment, brake or tire issues. It can "correct" for a pull to one side that should be addressed by correcting the root cause, not using add on device to mask/correct it.

What I am saying is, when you take it in for alignment you EXPLAIN what you want done, or you could have the alignment shop install the Safe-T-Plus when doing the alignment. You HAND the Shop the Safe-T-Plus instructions.

[wolfe10]

One of the few (very few) places I would disagree with Doug.

I would have an alignment done FIRST (yes, assuming an alignment is needed). I would not assume that the tech would loosen the Safe-T-Plus to take it out of the equation and then recenter it (which often takes several tries)

Because of the centering force of the Safe-T-Plus, it can be used to mask alignment, brake or tire issues. It can "correct" for a pull to one side that should be addressed by correcting the root cause, not using add on device to mask/correct it.

[dougrainer]

The BEST way to install a safety plus is----install the Safe-T-Plus, get it as close to neutral as you can, then have the Motorhome alignment done. When they start the alignment they loosen the u bolts on the Safe-T- Plus. When they align the RV, when they get it to spec, they then tighten the Safe-T-Plus u bolts and the system is now set to trac true and straight. The bad thing about a Safe-T-Plus is, if you do not get it perfect when you install it will pull to one side. AND, if you do have an alignment problem it will make it worse. Doug