Scary Handling Problem

[DunnInn]

First the equipment:
2009 Winnebago 29T class C on 2008 Ford E450 with V10 Triton
2007 Jeep Liberty with 4 wheel drive
Blue Ox Tow Bar and Tow Plate
Brake Buddy

Now the problem:
When driving the Winnebago or Jeep separately, they do fine. When you hook them together, it becomes a white knuckle experience. When the toad is hooked up, driving at city speeds, the steering on the RV seems stiff and doesn’t try to return to center after a turn. With the toad hooked up, driving at highway speeds, when I try to correct for a wind gust or a truck passing, the RV seems sluggish in responding then overcorrects and must be corrected back. This leads to overcorrection to the left followed by overcorrection to the right and this continues for several cycles. Then it’s back to a constant wandering between the lines. The tow bar handles are both in the locked position and there is no slippage in the bar. The alignment on the Jeep checked out OK. Also had the shocks on the RV checked – they’re OK. No oversized tires on the vehicles. Sure would like to find an INEXPENSIVE solution to this problem. Any suggestions?

[DunnInn]

It's just getting worse! The steering is tighter now than ever. The steering stabilizer and trac bar should be here tomorrow. Sure hope they solve the problem!

[DunnInn]

Funny you say that. They finished the gear box replacement on Friday, but didn't have time to adjust the wheel because it wasn't pointing straight. That's why we have to wait til Monday.

[ron_dittmer]

You might need an alignment again after the steering gear box was changed. I say this because with my old motor home, they had to adjust the gear box during the alignment. It had something to do with pointing the wheel straight. Maybe when yours is done, the alignment will still be fine but the steering wheel might not point straight anymore.

[DunnInn]

I'll have to check that out. I know they're Michelin, but can't remember which ones. We get it back on Monday - so I'll find out them. Thanks!

[Handbasket]

What specific tires is it on? I had some handling issues on 2 previous B's on Michelin LTX tires that were _instantly_ cured on the second one by putting on tires with stiffer sidewalls.

Several folks here and on the class B forum with E-series Fords have reported noticeably better handling & steering when their LTX's were replaced with something else. But I don't know if this would cause an issue when towing.

Jim, "Talk nerdy to me."

[DunnInn]

They're starting the new gear box installation today. Safe-T-Plus stabilizer and Super Steer rear trac bar ordered and should be here by Thursday. If this doesn't solve the problem, I'm lost.

[j-d]

BlueOx TigerTrak is same as Henderson SuperSteer Track Bar. I bought ours from some RV online parts outfit.
The Monroe Damper replacement is around $30, various sources. More for the Bilstein replacement. Be sure what you get includes a boot to protect from stone chips, it's extra for the Monroe.
I remain skeptical that you need a steering gear, but there've been good comments here about Red-Head Gears
I replaced the gear on our old 1983 E350 at over 100,000 miles. It was loose. When I adjusted it, the Pitman (output) shaft no longer sealed and it leaked. I replaced with an AutoZone rebuilt box. It didn't leak but it was no tighter than the old one after adjustment.

[DunnInn]

Yup. It's a Ford part that looks like a shock. Tightened up the gear box and took it out again. It's a lot better. Still think I'll get a new gear box and new steering stabilizer and track bar. Why not?? It's only money!!

[j-d]

I just re-read the entire thread and my question is: What Steering Stabilizer? Do you mean the OEM Ford part that looks like a shock absorber but mounted parallel to the ground? One end on frame, one end on steering?
I"ve seen a front suspension Strut (a big shock absorber) "stick" where it was compressed and wouldn't extend again. Shocks/Struts/Stabiizers usually fail to not resisting movement like they're designed to, but I can see where they could fail "glitchy" and if that happened to a Stabliizer (I call the OEM ones Dampers) it'd act like a too-tight steering box. Maybe even seem like a too-loose one.

[DunnInn]

Just removed the steering stabilizer and took it for a test drive. If I can get the steering box adjusted a little to get the play out of it, I think it may be OK. Do sttering stabilizers go bad?

[DunnInn]

OK, so finally back on working on this problem. I tried to adjust the steering box myself, but there was such limited space around it that I didn't have enough room to get any leverage on the nut to loosen it so I could do the adjustment. SO, I called a place about 30 minutes away to see if they could work on it. The receptionist said "SURE!!" So, off we went. Two days later, I called to see what they had found. The guy said he won't let his workers adjust the steering box, so we should come get it. THANKS SO MUCH!! SO, I talked to a guy closer to where I live and he said "SURE!!" So, off we went. FIRST, he didn't have any tools that he could use to reach it, so had to get some. THEN, he thought he had it fixed, so I drove it and it was really loose with a lot of play in it now and the problem of not returning to center was still there. I went back and tried to explain ONCE AGAIN what I was experiencing ahd he said it needed a new steering box. Now, I can believe that, but I'm not sure if he knows what he's talking about or not. He's supposed to be checking on prices for a new one. In the meantime, I'm going to unhook the steering stabilizer and see if that does anything?? The saga continues.

[Harvard]

j-d wrote:
I thought "tight steering box" from a comment earlier in this thread. There's an adjustment screw with lock nut on the top of the steering box. It can be used (sparingly!!!) to reduce free play in the steering wheel. But if it's set too tight, the steering won't want to return to center. You'll also have to force it off of center. Having to force the steering will result in exaggerated steering response. But in ordinary conditions, I wouldn't expect a steering box to wear enough to persuade anybody to tighten it much before 100,000 miles.
Have you owned this coach all along? If you just got it used, I wonder if somebody else had the Scary Handling Problem and tinkered with the steering but never found the real problem.

I agree with j-d...before I added extra +caster to my 2004 E450 I felt my steering box was too loose. Once the +caster was added this "too loose" symptom disappeared.

[DunnInn]

We bought the MH in Feb. of this year. Plan on trying to look at the steering box next to see what changing the adjustment screw will do.

[j-d]

I thought "tight steering box" from a comment earlier in this thread. There's an adjustment screw with lock nut on the top of the steering box. It can be used (sparingly!!!) to reduce free play in the steering wheel. But if it's set too tight, the steering won't want to return to center. You'll also have to force it off of center. Having to force the steering will result in exaggerated steering response. But in ordinary conditions, I wouldn't expect a steering box to wear enough to persuade anybody to tighten it much before 100,000 miles.
Have you owned this coach all along? If you just got it used, I wonder if somebody else had the Scary Handling Problem and tinkered with the steering but never found the real problem.

[DunnInn]

MH is a 2009 Winnebago 29T and is about 30 feet long. Our friends MH is a 1999 Coachmen and is 30.5 feet long. I'll have to measure the difference in overhang and wheelbase. They are both Ford chassis. Talked to the local Ford dealership who doesn't have the facilities to work on the MH. The service manager said if anyone had ever worked on the steering, they might have tightened the steer box too much?