Small used Class C--good idea or false economy?

[mkl654321]

I am currently shopping for a small (21-23) ft Class C to use as a fulltiming rig. (I live and work alone, and my job is online.) However, I've set a tight budget for myself--$10,000 maximum purchase price. This actually reflects my $15,000 budget for the RV itself plus a) the $2,000 worth of stuff that will need to be fixed immediately but that the seller doesn't tell me about b) a tow dolly (used) c) a solar panel and deep cycle battery setup.

The question I have is, can I find something for that price that isn't a complete about-to-disintegrate rattletrap? RVs in general are horribly built, and fulltiming puts demands on the equipment that were never intended by the manufacturer, so I don't want to dump ten grand into something that will die an inglorious death two months later, a smoking heap towed to the nearest junkyard.

Or should I forget it until I have more like thirty grand (whenever that might be!) to buy something that won't fly to pieces like the Blues Brothers' car? If it is possible to find something decent for that price, what are the particular pitfalls? (I know about things like water damage, the engine wheezing like a consumptive opera heroine, the owner being an unreconstructed hippie, etc.)

[jaycocreek]

but if you're thinking you will save money overall in Montana by full timing in a class C RV vs. renting an apartment or something similar, particularly over the winter, I suspect you'll find you're mistaken.

That is not the case in most small Idaho communities and probably Montana communities also...An RV(mobile home)spot runs about $200 plus electricity here and north of here it was $225 above Coeurdalene also plus electricity..Renting an apartment or house is easily double or triple that..Even real RV spots with electricity included run about $400 in Boise and apartments are far more expensive..

We have a bunch of people in town full timing in a RV just because it is so much cheaper compared to renting.

[DrewE]

I realize I'm reading between the lines, and may be misreading...but if you're thinking you will save money overall in Montana by full timing in a class C RV vs. renting an apartment or something similar, particularly over the winter, I suspect you'll find you're mistaken. Check the seasonal rates at campgrounds, and figure you'll spend a good bit on propane (or electricity) for heating as an RV is nowhere near as well insulated as a house.

If you're thinking you won't be in a campground, figure out where you'll get water fills and sewage dumps and propane fills when you need them, and preferably have an electric hookup. (Solar is nice, but you'll need a comparatively substantial system to keep enough power to run the furnace when the days are short in winter).

If you aren't looking to try to live on the cheap, but have other reasons for wanting or needing to full-time in the RV, then maybe this doesn't apply quite so much. Likewise, it's a little easier if this is a seasonal thing during the warmer weather.

[Bordercollie]

Full timing in any RV in cold climates could be miserable unless the RV was equipped for it as well as possible. There are heating pads for holding tanks, and DIY measures to keep as much warmth inside as possible. Blocking off the front cab/windshield and side windows helps. Furnaces use a lot of propane and battery power. You need ventilation while staying warm. If you do not have truck mechanic, propane/electric appliance, HVAC, and DIY skills for maintaining the 12volt battery and 120 volt AC systems and time, workspace and help necessary to make an old RV livable, I'd recommend saving your money and if you buy an RV, make it some 6 years old and plan on having tires, AC unit, furnace, fridge, etc. replaced/repaired when and if needed. Tires on RV's become unsafe sitting parked for 4 or more years even though they may look new. Check the DOT codes on the tires to determine age. Unsafe tires can cause loss of control and steel belts can flail the underside of the RV wiping out tanks, propane lines and wiring. Talk to a number of others who have lived in RV's fulltime in cold and hot weather. I would recommend a 27 foot class C with rear bedroom and good storage and cabinet space like our Tioga model 26Q, discontinued a few years ago but available used.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

What ever you do buy make sure chassis parts are available. I ran into that problem with a 1987 E-350 diesel.

Other than that watch for three things.

1. look for leaks
2. look harder for leaks
3. look even harder for leaks.

I full time in a 28'5" class C.

As far as solar goes, you need to start with an energy audit. Or simply cover all unshaded areas with solar and use a good controller that has set points for charging voltages, a battery temperature sensor, and voltage sense wires (on the battery). Buy a controller with room to grow the solar farm (unless doing the cover the roof scenario).

[jaycocreek]

Here is one in your price range in Trout creek Montana..I bought my Class C in Missoula..

23ft Class C $9500

[tpi]

I could live indefinitely in my 24' class C. When I return from vacation, it is not because I'm getting tired of living in the small space.

I think you will have easier time finding a good one at $20K plus. Take your time and find something nice.

Wintering in Montana would not be easy. I find mine is fine down to the low 20s or so as long as it warms up to the 40s during the day.

[Sam_Spade]

Are you really going to live in this in Montana ??
If so, you will need some extra consideration and extra $$$ to weather-proof.

I find my C just fine for one person.....but REALLY like having a full size bed in the back and not having to climb a ladder to get to it. It's 28', about 10 years old and cost me about $25K with 45K miles. New tires cost me a grand; other minor but important repairs cost me maybe another grand.

Depending on where you buy, you should be able to get one from a private party that's in good shape for $20K or a bit less.......if you have patience. You might get lucky at 10K but the odds are against it.

[jaycocreek]

RV daytrader wrote:
Here is one for 12k, but looks very nice...one person could live in it nicely.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/classc/1997-Winnebago-Minnie-Winnie-31475.htm

That is the exact same floor plan as mine and yes,one person could easily live in it..The water and all lines are in the coach away from the weather and it parks easily in almost any parking spot at only two feet longer than a HD 2500 pickup(19ft).

[RV_daytrader]

Here is one for 12k, but looks very nice...one person could live in it nicely.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/classc/1997-Winnebago-Minnie-Winnie-31475.htm

[jaycocreek]

Full timing in a Class C can be a challenge

It can be a challenge in any RV..The floorplan is everything..The Class C that the three of us and a dog full-timed in was the old party model floorplan..Couch with two opposing chairs/kitchen and large rear bath with a very deep bathtub.

There are a lot of these older party models on the market now, in and below 10 grand..For some reason they quit making that model..

For just one person, just about any floor plan will work in a 21ft class c using the overhead for a bunk.There are not a lot of choices in floor plans for the short motorhome.

When I lived and worked out of RV's full time,the most important feature I looked for was shower/tub size.Some are very small and others quite roomy..The rest was workable regardless of floor plan.

[Cobra21]

When you are looking at older rigs, smaller doesn't mean cheaper. I would look for something larger in your price range. We have a 21 C and I wouldn't want to live in it.
Good Luck on your search.

[elwood58]

Full timing in a Class C can be a challenge. We lived in ours for 9 weeks once, and it got pretty small on rainy days. It will be easier with just one person. Limitations for us were the size of the holding tanks, and propane use when boondocking. A generator helps, even if it is a little Honda 2000.

The house side of the C was pretty easy to work on.

[mikebreeze]

At 10K you will probably have to put some money into a class C. I spent 19K on mine and, while I don't full time in it, I do spend extended time in it. I find 24 feet to be a good length for one person.

[jaycocreek]

There out there,you just have to look..I sold a Beaver class C 24ft that I had replaced about everything inside like Refer/Air/hot water/pump and everything imaginable short of a new short block on the 440 motor.I would have driven that motorhome anywhere..Very reliable..We full timed in it for several years..

I sold it for $4K to buy a 35ft Fiver.

There are a lot of used small class C's out there under 10 grand that are a great buy..Some from older folks that had everything fixed and up to date including tires..Some had a mechanic that kept the motor up to date for them and others took it to the RV shop once a year to fix anything they saw wrong..One guy even had all the locked serviced and replaced as well as yearly service on the air conditioner.

There out there but you have to be patient and look and ready to buy when you find it as they don't last long..

[toedtoes]

$2,000 is a bit optimistic. You'll need new tires out the gate most likely - that's $800 to $1500 right there. A new fridge can run $1000. A rebuilt carburetor - $300+. A rebuilt engine $3,000+. Smaller stuff adds up.

When I bought my clipper, right off the bat I had to replace all 6 tires, replace all the fuel lines, repair the emergency brake, and replace other hoses and belts. Within the first month, I had to replace the converter. The first time I tried to dump the black & grey tanks, the valves got stuck (rubber had deteriorated and got stuck in the pipes) and I had to have the pipes cut to get the gaskets outs and put back together. American Clippers are quality rigs - very well built for their age and mine was in good shape. But its 40 years old. If I were to live in it full time, I would have had to also repair/replace the furnace (in my situation, I just closed it off from the propane and use a Mr. Heater Little Buddy for heat the few times I need it).

My point is that $2,000 isn't a lot for repairs to make an older RV something dependable in which to full time. And if you can't do the repair yourself, you don't have a place to live while it's being fixed so you should have some funds set aside for a motel room, etc. in such a situation.

Also, depending on your income, you'll need a regular infusion of cash for new things to go wrong at any moment. With an older RV, anything can suddenly fail at any time. Living in it full time, you'll have to be able to fix those things asap rather than wait until you save up the money.

I would say, wait until you save up $25,000. Put $10,000 into the purchase; $3000 for the tow dolly and solar/battery system; and the rest for repairs as needed. Then each month for as long as you own it, put away an additional $200 towards the repair fund. If you're lucky, by the time you want a change, you'll have thousands saved up. Otherwise, you've got $12,000 to put towards repairs - both initial issues and emergencies. Each year, you'll have replenished your repair fund by $2,400.