Soft breaks on dp

[bumpus4]

I have a 2013 holiday rambler ambassador that gives me what I consider "soft breaks". In other words it takes maximum foot pressure when coming off the Interstate or up to a red light to stop the unit. It just don't feel right when stopping. I have to plan my stops well in advance to safely stop the rig.

This is my first dp so don't know if this is normal or not. My previous experience was with two class a's. One a '08 Chevy Seneca with the Chevy diesel and with the standard chassis and the other a '13 Freightliner DS3 with the Cummins diesel. They both gave better performance when I needed the breaks.

I do not mean to say I have bad breaks just poor breaking when coming to a stop. This is a air break system.

Is there any EASY way to adjust the breaks or is this something that needs to be done in the shop? Or is this just normal for air breaks?

This is a workhorse chassis with the max force engine.

[bumpus4]

wolfe10 wrote:
Not familiar with your coach, but the brochure shows it to be on a ROADMASTER chassis (Monaco in-house chassis), not Workhorse.

I saw no mention of brakes, but did not read that closely.

Are your brakes air drum? Hydraulic?

(brakes are air drum)

[bumpus4]

wolfe10 wrote:
107 is still too low for most air brake systems. 120 PSI is the norm.

Have you tried accessing it from the bedroom/closet?

I have not tried that yet. Closet still full of summer clothes.

[bumpus4]

Deandec- I did all the test you described except for the auto adjustment test. I had to quit because of darkness.

Results - virtually no leak down . I checked from front to back listening and looking for a air leak and none was found. When I got back to the cockpit to restart the engine the gages had only a small amount of movement. The dc gages appeared to go back to near their original position with maybe a small amount of movement.(these gages are measured 0-65-150 so it is hard to measure the exact bleed down. I could see no static leak down at all.
Today was DR's office visit so had to put the auto adjustment off until tomorrow's pm.

Sorry I did not get back to you sooner but things have been hectic.
Bunpus4

[bumpus4]

note for test.

[deandec]

It appears you have no interest in doing the Air Brake pre trip test that I posted as a reply.

It will identify your problems and adjust your automatic slack adjusters in the process.

It should be done before every major travel event.

Why not do it tomorrow?

[Shot-N-Az]

Correct psi or not, your DP is not going to brake like anything you have driven before. It takes time and distance to bring 32,000 lbs to a stop.

[Ivylog]

Any farm mechanic can adjust and half a turn CW may get it up to 120... I actually run 130.

[wolfe10]

107 is still too low for most air brake systems. 120 PSI is the norm.

Have you tried accessing it from the bedroom/closet?

[bumpus4]

Good News. I went to the MH to do some checking and found the radiator to be wrapped in a shroud sort of to keep out FOD. Anyway it is a much to big a job for me to do.

Went to the cockpit and started the engine. Found out I was reading the air pressure gages wrong from the drivers position. The gages pointers read midway between 65 and 150 psi when read straight on. The pressure, when read straight on read 107.5 PSI. This matched on both gages.

Thanks for all your help. I'm still going to find me a shop to give my brake system a good review.

Thanks again, Bumpus4

[wolfe10]

Ivylog wrote:

bumpus4 wrote:
Air pressure front and back is about 60-65psi. maintains pressure very well .

This is your problem... surprised you even get it stopped. Has it always been this LOW? The governor is usually located near your radiator/ back of the engine. By taking off the black rubber cap and loosing the jam nut (3/8") you can turn the shaft with a straight slot screwdriver two turns CW and see how much that raises your pressure. You can do this with the engine running and someone watching the gauges. You want 120 psi minimum.

FIND THIS and try to adjust it for the proper PSI-- with engine running 120 PSI for cut-out PSI. IF not, buy a new one-- around $25. NOT difficult to adjust or install with basic hand tools and even a little mechanical aptitude.

[Bird_Freak]

Almost any truck shop can do this as it is the same braking system.

[bumpus4]

All of you are right. I was reading the operational manual wrong. It states a warning indicator will sound and a dash panel warning will appear at approx 60-65 psi. I am now going out to see how the gages are calibrated as I have never had a dash or audible warning. The OM doesn't address a max air pressure. I'll be calling the factory first thing tomorrow's AM.

I have to find a shop that will work on rv's. I live in small town NW TN and all shops here will do oil and lube but will not touch any mechanical problem. I cannot physically do the work myself. That's a bummer.

Guess I am out of commission til I get this thing fixed.

[YC_1]

Brake tutorial. If it says to reroute to another page or link that is fine.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

slickest1 wrote:
It sounds like you lack any knowledge of how your system should work. I don't say this to offend you but you really should take an air brake course to gain that knowledge. I would take it to a truck shop and have them troubleshoot the problem and then you will know you will be safe.

X2