Reading another post reminded me I have an issue to fix and I will welcome all suggestions. We recently arrived at our destination Cherry Hill in College Park MD and backed into our spot. A couple days later I advanced the key to adjust jacks and basically nothing happened. We essentially made it 1200 miles with many stops/starts and it actually quit after we made it. Anyhow GS sent out a tech and he did exactly what Brett Wolfe described in another post on this topic. He had a solenoid on his truck and we were fixed in minutes. The solenoid he had on his truck was used so I sourced a new one from NAPA to have on hand before we left for home. We made it home with no issues. Went to take it out last weekend and same story as in MD. I brought in my local tech and he installed the new part. We nixed going anywhere in favor of letting him check more into it. Solenoide got quite hot to the touch with key in advanced position. We realize now that something is making the solenoid fail. Any suggestions that might save us some time would be appreciated.
Bill & Kelli 2015 DSDP 4366 pulling a 21 JL Unlimited Sport 2002 Safari Zanzibar 3906 gone 1995 Fleetwood Bounder 36JD gone
Is this really the "starter" solenoid that you are talking about, the one that engages when you hit the start position on the key, to crank the engine? If so, it shouldn't get hot unless you are really cranking the engine extensively. On the other hand, if its an isolation solenoid, it needs to be continuous duty, of course.
In your post you state the solenoid lasted for 12 years. That being the case I would look at the starter amp draw. It may be that you have an internal starter problem and the increased load is taking out the solenoid.
2016 Newmar Baystar 3401 2011 HHR Toad Daktari & Lydia Cavalier King Charles , Annie get your guns, our English setter (fur Bearing Children)
Sorry I think I threw everyone a curve. Advanced position is key forward to operate all accessories (jack panel, radio, dash back lighting, Allison pad lit, but not engaging engine start. Next click to the right turns over engine. After installing new solenoid I left key in advanced position for maybe five minutes to do some entry level trouble shooting and that's when I noticed it was rather hot to the touch.
Bill & Kelli 2015 DSDP 4366 pulling a 21 JL Unlimited Sport 2002 Safari Zanzibar 3906 gone 1995 Fleetwood Bounder 36JD gone
Starter solenoid should be an intermittent duty solenoid activated by the key switch. The house or chassis isolation solenoid will be continuous duty solenoid. I would have the starter tested to see if the amp draw is too high.
I assume that by "advanced position" you mean engine crank position?
The coil in the starter slave solenoid is only powered up while cranking the engine, so shouldn't be on long enough to heat up. The current through the contacts is only for the pull-in and hold-in coils in the main solenoid on the starter. This should be 80 - 100 Amps very briefly as the starter engages the ring gear, and then drop to 10 - 20 Amps as the starter cranks the engine over. This also should not cause the solenoid to heat up. Starter slave solenoids should be intermittent rated, rather than continuous rated. Continuous rated solenoids can latch on if there is corrosion in the circuit. Intermittent rated solenoids also tend to have stronger contacts.
You will need to put an amp meter on the output post and see how many amps is passing thru it.. If the starter is going bad, it will draw an excessive amount and cause the contacts inside the solenoid to overheat and burn... Maybe a local auto parts store can check it for you..
I'm worried something has changed and is the reason for the failing part. The original solenoide lasted 12 years. The "used" one the guy installed lasted about 5 days. The new one we just installed hasn't failed at all I am just surprised at how hot it is to the touch. BTW they are all continuous duty and the correct spec.
Bill & Kelli 2015 DSDP 4366 pulling a 21 JL Unlimited Sport 2002 Safari Zanzibar 3906 gone 1995 Fleetwood Bounder 36JD gone
It is for the engine starter--it need not be continuous duty?
Regards, Don My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
A good 14 volt solenoid might be the answer. However, to make use of the current solenoid, maybe adding a large diode in the coil path may lower the voltage enough to run the solenoid cooler yet reliably pick and hold.
It's not he current going through the large contacts that causes the heat, it's the current through the coil.
Make sure the current solenoid is rated for continuous duty.
