Hello Everybody,
First post.
I camp a lot in tents but after spending three days straight in a tent in the rain at Dolly Sods I swore I'd make a change.
Here it is.
Bought it Wednesday.
Drove it home today.
1999 Ford E-250, 6 cylinder, 125K miles.
Was a home builders work van. Some slight surface rust.
Cargo doors a bit dinged up.
I'm planning on doing a full conversion. Most of the work I'll do myself but some will be beyond my abilities. I'm giving myself a deadline of no later than spring. Van won't fit into my small garage so that will affect how/when I can work on it.
I've been reading this and other conversion forums for a few weeks. It's been a huge help so far. Learned quite a lot already but there's still a lot I don't know. Counting on the pros who frequent this forum for some advice.
Advice like: The previous owner drilled some 3/4 inch holes in the floor for bolted down shelving. Whats the best way to cover these holes from underneath? Should I treat the metal edges of the holes before I start?
Thanks for your time, now and in the future.
WVvan
P.S. I'm thinking of call it "HAL the Van".
Why HAL? Well since my name is Dave....
Dave Bowman: Open the pod bay doors, HAL.
HAL: I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
First post.
I camp a lot in tents but after spending three days straight in a tent in the rain at Dolly Sods I swore I'd make a change.
Here it is.
Bought it Wednesday.
Drove it home today.
1999 Ford E-250, 6 cylinder, 125K miles.
Was a home builders work van. Some slight surface rust.
Cargo doors a bit dinged up.
I'm planning on doing a full conversion. Most of the work I'll do myself but some will be beyond my abilities. I'm giving myself a deadline of no later than spring. Van won't fit into my small garage so that will affect how/when I can work on it.
I've been reading this and other conversion forums for a few weeks. It's been a huge help so far. Learned quite a lot already but there's still a lot I don't know. Counting on the pros who frequent this forum for some advice.
Advice like: The previous owner drilled some 3/4 inch holes in the floor for bolted down shelving. Whats the best way to cover these holes from underneath? Should I treat the metal edges of the holes before I start?
Thanks for your time, now and in the future.
WVvan
P.S. I'm thinking of call it "HAL the Van".
Why HAL? Well since my name is Dave....
Dave Bowman: Open the pod bay doors, HAL.
HAL: I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
Next up. Flex Tiles with a blue diamond pattern for the floor of the cockpit.
I saw these at Lowe's and really liked the look of them. They are an interlocking tile made for garage floors. Upside is they are tough. Downside - expensive. About $11 a 20"x20" square. Lowes had a 8 square minimum order. I ended up needing six.
First step was to figure out where to place the seams. Put three tiles together and test fit. A rubber mallet is handy for joining tiles. Unfortunately I can't find where I put my damn rubber mallet so just used a regular hammer, but gently.
Decided to start with a full square under the drivers seat and extend from there.
Hold that first square down with the seat and it will keep the others in line.
Then start fitting and cutting.
Best way to work with the tiles are to mark and score them. Then bend back along the score line and cut again. This is looking at the underside.
It will look different once all the plastic molding pieces are reinstalled.
I saw these at Lowe's and really liked the look of them. They are an interlocking tile made for garage floors. Upside is they are tough. Downside - expensive. About $11 a 20"x20" square. Lowes had a 8 square minimum order. I ended up needing six.
First step was to figure out where to place the seams. Put three tiles together and test fit. A rubber mallet is handy for joining tiles. Unfortunately I can't find where I put my damn rubber mallet so just used a regular hammer, but gently.
Decided to start with a full square under the drivers seat and extend from there.
Hold that first square down with the seat and it will keep the others in line.
Then start fitting and cutting.
Best way to work with the tiles are to mark and score them. Then bend back along the score line and cut again. This is looking at the underside.
It will look different once all the plastic molding pieces are reinstalled.
Next layer, 1/2 inch plywood.
Use the already cut foam as a template. I'm cutting the plywood so that it's seam and the foam's is offset from each other.
I'm laying the plywood crosswise as opposed to lengthwise so there won't be a seam running the length of the van.
The downside to running the plywood this way is the metal edges that stick out. To get the plywood past them you have to trim off part of the end. Then just lay the trimmed piece in place.
One tip. The drivers side rear corner has a irregular shape. I found this method for creating a template handy. Cardboard strips. Place them one at a time against the wall and tape it down to the foam template (who's edge didn't match the wall to well when I first cut it).
With that template you'll be able to make a good cut.
Use the already cut foam as a template. I'm cutting the plywood so that it's seam and the foam's is offset from each other.
I'm laying the plywood crosswise as opposed to lengthwise so there won't be a seam running the length of the van.
The downside to running the plywood this way is the metal edges that stick out. To get the plywood past them you have to trim off part of the end. Then just lay the trimmed piece in place.
One tip. The drivers side rear corner has a irregular shape. I found this method for creating a template handy. Cardboard strips. Place them one at a time against the wall and tape it down to the foam template (who's edge didn't match the wall to well when I first cut it).
With that template you'll be able to make a good cut.
Next layer.
1/2" Extruded foam boards
Post this under Lessons Learned.
If you try to cover the cockpit floor you won't be able to get the doghouse back in.
You need to cut back at least 6" from the opening edge for it to be able to slide into place. I knew it would be a tight fit just didn't know how tight.
Instead I started the insulation at the back edge of the seats.
1/2" Extruded foam boards
Post this under Lessons Learned.
If you try to cover the cockpit floor you won't be able to get the doghouse back in.
You need to cut back at least 6" from the opening edge for it to be able to slide into place. I knew it would be a tight fit just didn't know how tight.
Instead I started the insulation at the back edge of the seats.
Here's some work I got done before Winter hit.
First layer.
I'm using 4x6 Rubber mats for a sound deadening layer.
Special order from Lowe's. $45 each.
Lay it out on plywood for easier cutting.
Tape together old newspapers to be same size as mat.
Create a template.
Cut the first mat to size and lay in van. Move on to the second mat with a new template. One small problem with the newspaper template. The newspapers are from 1979. I kept stopping to read them.
Next do the front mat. I wussed out on trying to do all the complicated cuts needed for the front wheel wells. I'll go back and do them as smaller pieces. This way only have to cut around the dog house. Didn't bother with template. Just measured and cut a rectangle (56" x 31", I think) then laid it down and trimmed.
Fourth mat goes between the back two and the front one. 6' x 28" wide. The gap between the mats is not perfectly parallel so a little trim to fit is needed.
Use double sided carpet tape to finish the rear wheel wells.
From remnants cut (2) 42"x10.5" pieces. One for each side to be wrapped over the top.
Almost all done with this layer.
First layer.
I'm using 4x6 Rubber mats for a sound deadening layer.
Special order from Lowe's. $45 each.
Lay it out on plywood for easier cutting.
Tape together old newspapers to be same size as mat.
Create a template.
Cut the first mat to size and lay in van. Move on to the second mat with a new template. One small problem with the newspaper template. The newspapers are from 1979. I kept stopping to read them.
Next do the front mat. I wussed out on trying to do all the complicated cuts needed for the front wheel wells. I'll go back and do them as smaller pieces. This way only have to cut around the dog house. Didn't bother with template. Just measured and cut a rectangle (56" x 31", I think) then laid it down and trimmed.
Fourth mat goes between the back two and the front one. 6' x 28" wide. The gap between the mats is not perfectly parallel so a little trim to fit is needed.
Use double sided carpet tape to finish the rear wheel wells.
From remnants cut (2) 42"x10.5" pieces. One for each side to be wrapped over the top.
Almost all done with this layer.
Working in the Winter
If I'm planning on having this conversion done in the spring a way to work over the winter is needed. The van is too big to fit into my garage but it will fit in front of it.
Winter is here:
The view from inside the garage.
Use some furring strips, staples, a old tarp and some clamps. Block off the opening with the garage door up.
Using another old tarp and duct tape create a tunnel around the side doors. A piece of scrap plywood is placed on top of the open van doors.
Do a little cutting, put the two together and mark off where they meet.
Do some more taping.
Then install. It only takes a couple of minutes to get it fully into place
I didn't know what to call it. I was thinking of either the Human Habitrail or the Blue ET Tunnel but someone else suggest "The Airlock". I like that.
The tunnel part has some extra length so it will reach the van if I move it and not return it to the exact same spot.
The tarp doesn't provide much in the way of insulation but it does keep the wind out and with the two kerosene heaters running on their low setting the garage and the van stay reasonably warm. It comes down in no time at all and I didn't have to buy a thing. All the parts were already lying around the garage.
If I'm planning on having this conversion done in the spring a way to work over the winter is needed. The van is too big to fit into my garage but it will fit in front of it.
Winter is here:
The view from inside the garage.
Use some furring strips, staples, a old tarp and some clamps. Block off the opening with the garage door up.
Using another old tarp and duct tape create a tunnel around the side doors. A piece of scrap plywood is placed on top of the open van doors.
Do a little cutting, put the two together and mark off where they meet.
Do some more taping.
Then install. It only takes a couple of minutes to get it fully into place
I didn't know what to call it. I was thinking of either the Human Habitrail or the Blue ET Tunnel but someone else suggest "The Airlock". I like that.
The tunnel part has some extra length so it will reach the van if I move it and not return it to the exact same spot.
The tarp doesn't provide much in the way of insulation but it does keep the wind out and with the two kerosene heaters running on their low setting the garage and the van stay reasonably warm. It comes down in no time at all and I didn't have to buy a thing. All the parts were already lying around the garage.
Lesson Learned #1.
If applying clear coat INSIDE the van with a spray gun, wear goggles.
I'm never going to get the clear coat specks off my glasses.:S
It was time for a new pair anyway.
At least I had sense enough to wear a respirator.
08/24/09
"Say Hello To My Little Friend(s)"
I'm going to be getting to know these guys, and their parts, fairly well.
They may not look like much but are in far better shape than this other van I saw:
If applying clear coat INSIDE the van with a spray gun, wear goggles.
I'm never going to get the clear coat specks off my glasses.:S
It was time for a new pair anyway.
At least I had sense enough to wear a respirator.
08/24/09
"Say Hello To My Little Friend(s)"
I'm going to be getting to know these guys, and their parts, fairly well.
They may not look like much but are in far better shape than this other van I saw:
Two steps forward, One step back:
Did some more painting today.
My first experience with clear coat.
But while removing door hardware before painting I managed to snap off the two bolts holding down the bracket the door latches to when it's closed:
Don't know my own strength.
Luckily there are several web pages on extracting broken bolts.
Looks like I'll be adding left-handed drill bits to my tool collection.
Update: To solve the broken bolts problem I ended up not using a extractor but instead replaced the bracket. It took some real finagling to get the old one out, especially with the bolts sticking out, and another one in but with patience it can be done. That same bracket is used in other places on the van so getting a replacement from a salvage yard wasn't hard.
Did some more painting today.
My first experience with clear coat.
But while removing door hardware before painting I managed to snap off the two bolts holding down the bracket the door latches to when it's closed:
Don't know my own strength.
Luckily there are several web pages on extracting broken bolts.
Looks like I'll be adding left-handed drill bits to my tool collection.
Update: To solve the broken bolts problem I ended up not using a extractor but instead replaced the bracket. It took some real finagling to get the old one out, especially with the bolts sticking out, and another one in but with patience it can be done. That same bracket is used in other places on the van so getting a replacement from a salvage yard wasn't hard.
Hello Bananadanna,
I have to blame/credit you with helping me get starting down this path. I was inspired when I saw all that you were able to do without benefit of a garage or other dedicated work area. It looks like you just worked on the street in front of your house, and in the winter to boot. I have a small garage that won't hold the van but will at least give me a space to work from.
Hey Landyacht318,
Thanks for the info. I've made changes to the wiring plan based on your advice. In regards to the 15 amp charger I only have one thing to say:
D'OH!
A 15 amp DC charger doesn't draw 15 AC amps. I should have realized that. Don't know what I was thinking. This particular charger will draw 4 amps. On the plus side it means I can run most my AC appliances and the charger at the same time from one 15 amp shore power circuit. Just have to remember not to use the microwave. Needed to add an extra outlet to shore power so I can plug three things in at once. The charger is already on order so too late to change it. Thanks for straightening me out.
Hey Diyvanner,
I was originally planning on installing an isolator until I started crawling around the engine. This is my first van and I didn't realize how crowded everything is in the engine compartment. I could have made it fit but by using a battery separator it makes the fitting and wiring much simpler. An added benefit, if I'm understanding the Sure Power Model 1315 manual correctly, is that while I have the van house battery charging it will also charge the starting battery. This will be helpful in the winter when the van won't be driven too much.
Some van work pics from today:
I have to blame/credit you with helping me get starting down this path. I was inspired when I saw all that you were able to do without benefit of a garage or other dedicated work area. It looks like you just worked on the street in front of your house, and in the winter to boot. I have a small garage that won't hold the van but will at least give me a space to work from.
Hey Landyacht318,
Thanks for the info. I've made changes to the wiring plan based on your advice. In regards to the 15 amp charger I only have one thing to say:
D'OH!
A 15 amp DC charger doesn't draw 15 AC amps. I should have realized that. Don't know what I was thinking. This particular charger will draw 4 amps. On the plus side it means I can run most my AC appliances and the charger at the same time from one 15 amp shore power circuit. Just have to remember not to use the microwave. Needed to add an extra outlet to shore power so I can plug three things in at once. The charger is already on order so too late to change it. Thanks for straightening me out.
Hey Diyvanner,
I was originally planning on installing an isolator until I started crawling around the engine. This is my first van and I didn't realize how crowded everything is in the engine compartment. I could have made it fit but by using a battery separator it makes the fitting and wiring much simpler. An added benefit, if I'm understanding the Sure Power Model 1315 manual correctly, is that while I have the van house battery charging it will also charge the starting battery. This will be helpful in the winter when the van won't be driven too much.
Some van work pics from today:
