Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C
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Dec-10-2009 06:16 PM
A new RV can be very expensive and if you already own an outdated RV then you should just consider a complete RV remodel which can be a significant amount of money cheaper than the cost of a brand new model. If you are retired and use your RV to travel then why not save the money for your travels rather than on spending a large chunk of money on a brand new travelling vacation home. When you decide to have an RV remodel done you can have your old model completely gutted and rebuilt to look just like a newer RV and when the work is done you will not even recognize your old mobile home. Going about having a new RV to travel in this way can save you thousands of dollars and you will not have to worry about the payments on a brand new RV home. Many retired people are travelling this way nowadays so they can travel the country and be comfortable while doing it, and there are many others that own these vehicles that they will take on summer family camping trips. The RV’s that are made today are unbelievable and have all of the luxuries of home at a fraction of the size, these make it great fir families and retired folks to travel comfortably, and having an RV remodel done you can make your old RV look just like a brand new one.
Statistics show that the amount of registered RV homes on the road is growing steadily every year, and much of this is due to the baby boomer generation retiring and wanting to travel the country in comfort and style. Having an RV remodel can make your RV brand new. Some things you may want to consider is having all new beds and appliances put in. Since RV appliances are smaller than your normal home kitchen appliances they are much cheaper, and a complete RV remodel will probably cost you anywhere from $5,000 to $12,000, depending on how many changes are being done. The latter price could even be a little more if you are having your RV completely gutted and redesigned. It will still save you a lot of money over purchasing a new RV home. Another thing to consider during your RV remodel is if you plan on just remodeling the inside or if you want to have the exterior redone as well, and if this is the case the project will cost more money but will still be cheaper than buying a new RV. Most of these vacationing and traveling vehicles have a type of siding on them, and the more modern ones are sometimes made of more durable fibreglasses and plastics, these materials are very nice since you do not ever have to worry about rusting.
If you plan on getting a loan out for this remodeling job then you will first want to get various estimates, much like a home remodeling project. Once you get all the estimates you want you can then apply for the amount of money through your financial institution or credit union. The amount of money you need should not be hard for you to get approved for, especially if you have good credit. If you are a retired individual you most likely can take the money out of your pension or 401 funds, and this would be your best bet due to interest rates. Usually the place where you originally bought the RV can do the remodel for you as well, and if they cannot they can usually refer you to someone who can do the job for you. With the popularity of these vehicles constantly growing there are also many new dealerships and shops that specialize in these vacation vehicles. Having a comfortable vehicle to travel year round in or to just vacation in yearly is a great asset and can also be a great stress reliever. It is also a very popular vehicle for families to use on family camping trips, and the nice thing is that if the kids want to rough it while camping they can just sent their tents up right outside the RV.
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Class C
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Sep-12-2010 08:44 AM
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Sep-12-2010 08:44 AM
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Sep-12-2010 06:17 AM
skimask wrote:OK The cure time on this polyester resin is 2 hrs and and it kinda sets up in about 12 to 15 mins and I think you can make this longer by using 10 drops of hardener instead of 12 drops, Again I just dont know.????oldtrucker63 wrote:
OK help here you say Fiberglass/bondo....??? There will not be any bondo used on this,?? The resin is polyester resin and sets up quick but I will be doing small areas at a time and from what I read this stuff will not crack and will stick to just about anythig, But its just fiberglass and matt Not any Bondo, Bondo is for dent repair on cars.?? Is this right...I Just dont know..???
I'm not 100% myself. In fact, I think I might've been confusing myself a bit. First thing I saw in that picture were the big words "BONDO", and that says to me 'old school car fixing' type stuff.
One thing I do know is that the faster the epoxy stuff sets up, the more brittle it is. The more prone to cracks it is because it is so brittle.
Back in the day when I used to build and fly R/C planes a lot, I'd almost never use the 5 or even 30 minute epoxy mixes. I'd always use the 2 hour epoxy types, especially where strength and a bit of flex were needed. I could tell in the finished product, even though it took forever to fully cure (a day or more at room temp), the 2 hour stuff had a LOT more give to it before it would think about cracking up. The 5 minute stuff was just too brittle to use anywhere for me.
Heck, might want to stop down to the local boat shop and ask around there. Boats=fiberglass, Boat shops=guys that know fiberglass repairs...with any luck...
JDG
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Sep-11-2010 09:31 PM
oldtrucker63 wrote:
OK help here you say Fiberglass/bondo....??? There will not be any bondo used on this,?? The resin is polyester resin and sets up quick but I will be doing small areas at a time and from what I read this stuff will not crack and will stick to just about anythig, But its just fiberglass and matt Not any Bondo, Bondo is for dent repair on cars.?? Is this right...I Just dont know..???
I'm not 100% myself. In fact, I think I might've been confusing myself a bit. First thing I saw in that picture were the big words "BONDO", and that says to me 'old school car fixing' type stuff.
One thing I do know is that the faster the epoxy stuff sets up, the more brittle it is. The more prone to cracks it is because it is so brittle.
Back in the day when I used to build and fly R/C planes a lot, I'd almost never use the 5 or even 30 minute epoxy mixes. I'd always use the 2 hour epoxy types, especially where strength and a bit of flex were needed. I could tell in the finished product, even though it took forever to fully cure (a day or more at room temp), the 2 hour stuff had a LOT more give to it before it would think about cracking up. The 5 minute stuff was just too brittle to use anywhere for me.
Heck, might want to stop down to the local boat shop and ask around there. Boats=fiberglass, Boat shops=guys that know fiberglass repairs...with any luck...
JDG
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Sep-11-2010 07:10 PM
I can't say how it would stand up under the flexing in the area where the wall joins the roof.
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory
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Sep-11-2010 06:40 PM
skimask wrote:OK help here you say Fiberglass/bondo....??? There will not be any bondo used on this,?? The resin is polyester resin and sets up quick but I will be doing small areas at a time and from what I read this stuff will not crack and will stick to just about anythig, But its just fiberglass and matt Not any Bondo, Bondo is for dent repair on cars.?? Is this right...I Just dont know..???
I'm curious as to why you want to use fiberglass/bondo to do the re-work of the overhead?
From what I remember, fiberglass/bondo gets really hard after it cures. I'm thinking that in an RV application, that stuff won't flex nearly enough and it'll end up cracking up on the first outing, especially up high and on the corners like you're planning on doing. Maybe somebody makes a "flex agent" that you can add to it like they do with plastic bumper paint, keeps it from cracking up.
JDG
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Sep-11-2010 06:33 PM
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Sep-11-2010 06:28 PM
is completed, the next layer can be done at any time, even
days later, without sanding between layers. When working
with epoxy, each layer must be added before the prior layer
cures (usually within 24 hours) in order to avoid sanding
between layers.
Looking at everything I read, This polyester will work and stick to just about anything and if done right with the mixing will not crack, Is this right, I just dont know.???
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Sep-11-2010 05:19 PM
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Sep-11-2010 04:07 PM
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Sep-11-2010 02:48 PM
Here is the marine supply we use.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/
Terry
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Sep-11-2010 12:25 PM
Generic Fiberglass
Here's a link to how to use fiberglass:
Fiberglass 101
Bruce
Custom Frame, Poptop, AC, Espar Diesel Furnace, HW Heater, Sink, Shower, 12V-120V, LED Lights, TV and XM Radio, DVD Player, 300W PV Panels, PD 9140 Charger, Tongue Box, Filon Exterior, 1000W Generator, Patient Wife
Boxcar Build
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Sep-11-2010 09:49 AM
And our web site:
http://astroobservatorys.com/thunderdome/index.html
Just trying to help:)
Terry
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Sep-10-2010 09:21 PM
From what I remember, fiberglass/bondo gets really hard after it cures. I'm thinking that in an RV application, that stuff won't flex nearly enough and it'll end up cracking up on the first outing, especially up high and on the corners like you're planning on doing. Maybe somebody makes a "flex agent" that you can add to it like they do with plastic bumper paint, keeps it from cracking up.
JDG
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Sep-10-2010 06:56 PM