โDec-10-2009 06:16 PM
โDec-05-2010 10:10 AM
โDec-05-2010 09:45 AM
chinook440 wrote:Nope....The wall will be more to the passenger side of the RV, Lets see I think the measurement on the bunk side was 34" or 36" and the bath gets the rest, There will be a wall in behind the Tub/Shower this wall will cover part of the window OK From the tub/shower to the wall next to the bunk the window can be seen in the bath area, And there will be a small part of the window in the bunk area....I think when I get this finished and in the bath area the curtains are hung from the window and you look in from the bathroom door Ya'll will say WOW that looks cool.:S
Maybe i,m not seeing things right ..... Is the wall in between the bathroom and the bunks gonna be in the middle of your rear window ?:h
โDec-04-2010 03:43 PM
โDec-04-2010 03:39 PM
Mike and Paula wrote:That rear window will be blacked out, Nothing seen from the outside looking in, And the only place to see out from the inside will be in the head of the bunk beds and maybe a small area in the bath area, This is still heads up, (In the making) What ever way it go's It will look good from the inside and out.:C LOL I guess from looking at the layout it is hard to see what I see in the end, But as we go along then it will start to show.oldtrucker63 wrote:
Best I can get right now, Anyway With Cabinets over the sink/Stove and over the table and fridge, A door at the bathroom and a curtain at the bunk door. As far as the measurements I can't get this Paint to type letters so right now I guess that is out....LOL:W
My question is how you going to finish in the bath/shower around that big rear window?
โDec-04-2010 03:26 PM
lzasitko wrote:I think this plastic is about 6 mil also, I have been overlapping the ends and same at the top where the wall meets the ceiling, I think this will seal everything air tight, I never thought of using Acoustic sealant to seal them I wished I would have though but its to late for that, For the most part, I can still seal it at the floor and I will do that, I'm just trying to get everything air tight.
Don't know how thick your plastic is.... Last house I built we used 6mil and top, bottom where it meets the joists it was sealed with Acoustic sealant. It comes in either small tubes or the large tubes depending on what kind of caulking gun you have. The stuff never dries out. All joints the same thing overlap on a joist and Acoustic sealant on the joist as well as in between the plastic where it overlaps. Any holes through walls were sealed using the same stuff. In the end it really cuts down on cold infiltration. The sealant is nasty n one way, if you get it on cloths you will never get it out, I've tried! but the best thing is that it does the job and is cheap. I have seen others tape all the joints to seal but I feel the sealant works better and will not let go. At the bottom of the walls we also ran a bead of sealant to seal any gap between floor and wall. As well as that we also ran a thin foam sheet under the wall to again seal it all. Some may be difficult to do at this stage but....
Just a thought...
โDec-04-2010 03:21 PM
tboss wrote:This one will not go all the way to the top, like yours it is 63" tall It should look great when all built in.
In my unit my tub surround dont go all the way to the ceiling ,it has abt 10 inch clearance for any slope the wall and ceiling might have,,,,
โDec-04-2010 03:16 PM
John H wrote:I'm going to build a back wall inside of the slope rear wall for the bath area, And the inside sloped wall will be boxed at the lower part for room to put the shore power cord, And to box the tail light into, I will have to get the tub and set it in before I build this rear wall that will be only right behind the tub, Just outside the tub the wall will then go back to a slope.
In looking over the floorplan of other RV's on the one wall, finish inside outer wall,
A Double bed is-- 52"w. x 72"L.
Dinette is -- 42"w. x 70"L.
2 Wall partition 4" 1/2" total
(2"thick + 1/8" & 1/8" wall materal)
Frig. depending on size.
On that wall,(foot of the bed & frig sides) you will want a solid piece of wood to attach the top plate to, As I said before, if this does not fall directly under a rafter you will want to attach at least 2 cross (more like three) pieces between the two nearest rafters to fasten it to. Before appling ceiling insulation ~~~not much room above.
Ok,Is it just me on page 167, does the lower part of that back wall slope in. If so by putting that tubs end perpindicular to that outer back wall are you allowing for the extra height that that wall will take away from the setting of that tub. this because you have to get into the tub, with a set height of that ceiling. It was designed to go on the floor and against a corner wall.
In construction there is a minimun set CONFORTABLE width (shoulder) for the carpender in his lay-out to allow between bathrooms obstructions, to set the toilet. Then to allow the plumber to cut his hole, centered, for the floor ring/waste. May be others with RV's handy can measure their distances between their obsticles, to give you an idea how far out that outer bath wall will be.
โDec-04-2010 03:09 PM
tenbear wrote:Yes the toilet is going to be where that Lil O is in the bath.
Trucker, you have mentioned the black tank in some of your posts but I don't see a toilet. What am I missing?
Edit: Oops, I guess "Bath" is bathroom and includes the toilet.
โDec-04-2010 08:16 AM
oldtrucker63 wrote:
Best I can get right now, Anyway With Cabinets over the sink/Stove and over the table and fridge, A door at the bathroom and a curtain at the bunk door. As far as the measurements I can't get this Paint to type letters so right now I guess that is out....LOL:W
โDec-04-2010 08:02 AM
โDec-04-2010 05:32 AM
โDec-03-2010 10:54 PM
โDec-03-2010 07:56 PM
โDec-03-2010 04:39 PM
โDec-03-2010 04:13 PM