โDec-10-2009 06:16 PM
โDec-13-2010 09:54 AM
โDec-13-2010 07:29 AM
oldtrucker63 wrote:
This is what is going on here in Harlan Kentucky today, 12/13/2010.:B
โDec-13-2010 05:40 AM
โDec-13-2010 05:33 AM
โDec-13-2010 05:31 AM
โDec-13-2010 04:54 AM
โDec-13-2010 02:40 AM
Biscuit1001 wrote:LOL.....Yeah....HUMMmmmmm I bet them was good..:holdtrucker63 wrote:TreeSeeker wrote:
I think the vapor barrier is important because the humidity in an RV will be higher than in a house since you have such a small space. People are still expelling just as much water vapor in their breath and you are also cooking. So the same amount of water vapor is being generated as in a house. If this vapor is condensing on the inside of the RV walls then you are going to have mold problems.
You are 100% right.
LOL! I did the research for ya last night...cooked pork chops using a George Foreman-like grill without the vent on. Woke up to condensation on ALL the windows...
I know better, I really do. I was just, ermmmm....doing research. Yeah, that's it...
โDec-12-2010 12:42 PM
oldtrucker63 wrote:TreeSeeker wrote:
I think the vapor barrier is important because the humidity in an RV will be higher than in a house since you have such a small space. People are still expelling just as much water vapor in their breath and you are also cooking. So the same amount of water vapor is being generated as in a house. If this vapor is condensing on the inside of the RV walls then you are going to have mold problems.
You are 100% right.
โDec-12-2010 10:16 AM
Dakzuki wrote:Thanks, We will get there It's hard but we will make it, Yeah I can't wait to get out of bed this spring and be able to smell the spring flowers, It's been so long now.Biscuit1001 wrote:oldtrucker63 wrote:
Trying to Quit smoking today, Cold Turkey, Started just a few Minuets ago I hope this go's good.:R Most of all I hope Charlene gives it her best, She is on the train with me, Together we can do this.:p
Quiting smoking a couple weeks before Christmas? Eeeepppp!
Good luck to both you and Charlene!
You guys can do it. I did.
It took a few (failed) attempts over the years but I am done with it and it has been about 7 years and there is no going back now. I did it cold (more like tepid) turkey (actually I weaned myself off) but my brother used gum and that helped a bunch.
โDec-12-2010 10:13 AM
john b wrote:Thanks John, I hope you and yours have a wonderful Trip, Be safe and God Bless.
Trucker you & the wife can do the cold turkey trick. The wife & I did it that way in 1985 & never looked back & are very happy we did. It is much easier when you both do it together as that teamwork thing is extremely helpful.. You can do it if I did for sure Good luck ,Happy holidays & enjoy how much better things taste & smell once you are dried out! Happy Holidays as we are hitting the road for Al' in the next couple of days. Jb
โDec-12-2010 10:06 AM
4Eddielee wrote:WOW that is a lot around you, I too have the same thing going on, My grand father died from lung cancer, and also two of dads brothers and a 3rd brother has it now, I also have 3 spots on my left lung that is most likely cancer although I like my dads brother will not go to a DR. I have not been back after the DR found these so called spots, As for coal dust I worked in the old Wilcox mines as a jack setter back in the early 80's and then you could hold your hand a foot in front of you face and you could not see your hand, The coal dust was so thick, And cigarettes for 36 years on top of that my chances are very low, But anyway I believe in Jesus and what ever it comes down to, I'll just let it be, To anyone that is smoking now PLEASE QUIT NOW Don't wait do it NOW.:(
All 4 of the people that I personally know that quit cold turkey all did so on the diagnosis of lung cancer. It can be done! My father quit after 62 years of smoking and died of lung cancer 11 years later. My father-in-law died at 63. My sister-in-law died of lung cancer at age 48. My mother of cancer at age 44. My son has had testicular cancer and my wife has had overian cancer. I'm surrounded by it.... Good luck OldTrucker, hope you caught it in time. All that coal dust doesn't help either - that stuff is almost as bad as asbestos or silicosis!
โDec-12-2010 09:53 AM
lzasitko wrote:If the cost was a bit lower I would have used the spray in foam, I believe that would be the very best.coloradohoosier wrote:
I suggested more research, OldTrucker. I don't know for sure what the best vapor barrier application is for an RV. I do know for certain that Izasitko is mistaken regarding houses though. I'm building contractor.
Faced insulation has a built in vapor barrier --- that's what the facing does. It isn't really the most efficient vapor barrier, but it is the most labor and cost effective, so is the standard approach. An alternative is to install plastic over the studs after insulating with non-faced insulation. Either way though, only walls (and crawlspace floors) get vapor barrier. Ceilings are always allowed to breath --- they always get non-faced isulation and no vapor barrier --- and air movement above the insulation is encouraged through venting of the attic, or the rafter cavities in the case of a vault ceiling. If a house is wrapped too tight, moisture will collect between the drywall and the vapor barrier, causing the fasteners to rust and the drywall to fail. Besides that, if a house were too tight the pilot lights and gas appliances would burn up the inside oxygen, and breathing occupents would consume it as well! It would take your family a while to breath up all of the oxygen in a house, but not that long in an RV. "YOU WANT IT AIR TIGHT!" is certainly wrong. Newer houses, because they are tighter than old ones, now bring outside air in for combustion in the furnace and water heater.
An RV is somewhat different, I'm sure. Most people don't even use them when temperatures are low enough to freeze the water tanks. The windows are also less efficient than modern windows in houses, so undoubtably there is infiltration there, and through the rooftop air if you have it --- as well as in the cab area (vans and cars aren't airtight.) The main thing I thought of when I suggested more research was the issue I pointed out about drywall and fasteners. I'd hate to see you finish your build, then find that moisture collected in your paneling, creating mildew, mold, or a musty smell. If it were me doing the build I would research the matter thoroughly, or not use vapor barrier along the top of the walls to be safe. Your siding will allow moisture transfer, but your roof will not (unlike a house roof which is vented). You don't really have to worry about your heating/cooling bill like in a house, because the RV is so small, so concerns about it being completely tight for that reason are largely unfounded.
That's my 2-cents --- remember what you paid for it.
And I too have been in Construction for almost 40 years. I have done everything from Design (still do a lot these days for other people) to building.
I have built everything from small houses to large care homes and up here building code says that the ceiling has to have a vapour barrier. You can use the paper faced insulation but here it is not that common, fiberglas, rockwool (Spun rock, non combustible) sprayed foam (only way you don't need a vapour barrier as it seals itself) sprayed in cellulose (Paper) etc are more common.
Walls are always sealed as tight as possible and in a house it is very common to see air to air heat exchangers. No matter how tight there is no such thing as air-tight, air will always find a way in. You are right in that up here furnaces have their own fresh air vent.
I know that homes and other building usually have an air space above the insulation in the roof and venting properly is required so that moisture does not accumulate. And yes RV's are a different process but the basics still apply. RV's will never be sealed as tight as a house, there are simply too many ways for air to get in and out.
I will disagree with your comment about it not being worth it to seal it as tight as possible. If it was me rebuilding an RV I would spray foam the whole inside instead of using batt insulation. Any time you can slow heat loose and limit air movement it will cost less to heat or cool.
also my two cents worth ๐
โDec-12-2010 09:49 AM
TreeSeeker wrote:You are 100% right.The truth is, an RV is a pretty small box to heat or cool, so the benefits of insulating, vapor blocking, etc., are probably pretty marginal when it comes right down to it.
I am not so sure. We have friends whose cabin was gutted and rebuilt with 6 inch insulated outside walls. They heat the LR/Kitchen (about 20x15 ft) with about 3-4 logs for an evening when it is in the 30s outside.
My living room is about 10x15 and is uninsulated. It takes about 10-12 logs to heat it when the temps are in the 40s.
So insulation can make a huge difference in the amount of energy required for heating. Granted the amount of fuel to heat even an uninsulated RV would be much less than heating an insulated house, but you are limited in the amount of fuel you can carry. So, if you have good insulation in your RV your limited fuel will last much longer.
I think the vapor barrier is important because the humidity in an RV will be higher than in a house since you have such a small space. People are still expelling just as much water vapor in their breath and you are also cooking. So the same amount of water vapor is being generated as in a house. If this vapor is condensing on the inside of the RV walls then you are going to have mold problems.
โDec-11-2010 07:57 PM
Biscuit1001 wrote:oldtrucker63 wrote:
Trying to Quit smoking today, Cold Turkey, Started just a few Minuets ago I hope this go's good.:R Most of all I hope Charlene gives it her best, She is on the train with me, Together we can do this.:p
Quiting smoking a couple weeks before Christmas? Eeeepppp!
Good luck to both you and Charlene!
โDec-11-2010 06:28 PM