Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C

[oldtrucker63]

I would say some of you have seen the start of this build that my brother bgriffey had posted, Well I have now bought the RV from him and plan to post the pixs of the build I have found a lot of rot in this RV I have torn out everything on the inside and have the rear opened up and the skin off the lower driver side, I will be buying a camera for my wife for christmas and im sure she will take the pixs if I can learn HOW to post them on here, Please remember its winter here in Kentucky so it will be slow but we will keep the pixs coming, Like I said this will be a total build from floor to walls and roof and custom inside build so I would appreciate all the help I can get this will be my first build and I will be learning as I go so any info will help. THANKS......Tony Griffey.

A new RV can be very expensive and if you already own an outdated RV then you should just consider a complete RV remodel which can be a significant amount of money cheaper than the cost of a brand new model. If you are retired and use your RV to travel then why not save the money for your travels rather than on spending a large chunk of money on a brand new travelling vacation home. When you decide to have an RV remodel done you can have your old model completely gutted and rebuilt to look just like a newer RV and when the work is done you will not even recognize your old mobile home. Going about having a new RV to travel in this way can save you thousands of dollars and you will not have to worry about the payments on a brand new RV home. Many retired people are travelling this way nowadays so they can travel the country and be comfortable while doing it, and there are many others that own these vehicles that they will take on summer family camping trips. The RV’s that are made today are unbelievable and have all of the luxuries of home at a fraction of the size, these make it great fir families and retired folks to travel comfortably, and having an RV remodel done you can make your old RV look just like a brand new one.

Statistics show that the amount of registered RV homes on the road is growing steadily every year, and much of this is due to the baby boomer generation retiring and wanting to travel the country in comfort and style. Having an RV remodel can make your RV brand new. Some things you may want to consider is having all new beds and appliances put in. Since RV appliances are smaller than your normal home kitchen appliances they are much cheaper, and a complete RV remodel will probably cost you anywhere from $5,000 to $12,000, depending on how many changes are being done. The latter price could even be a little more if you are having your RV completely gutted and redesigned. It will still save you a lot of money over purchasing a new RV home. Another thing to consider during your RV remodel is if you plan on just remodeling the inside or if you want to have the exterior redone as well, and if this is the case the project will cost more money but will still be cheaper than buying a new RV. Most of these vacationing and traveling vehicles have a type of siding on them, and the more modern ones are sometimes made of more durable fibreglasses and plastics, these materials are very nice since you do not ever have to worry about rusting.

If you plan on getting a loan out for this remodeling job then you will first want to get various estimates, much like a home remodeling project. Once you get all the estimates you want you can then apply for the amount of money through your financial institution or credit union. The amount of money you need should not be hard for you to get approved for, especially if you have good credit. If you are a retired individual you most likely can take the money out of your pension or 401 funds, and this would be your best bet due to interest rates. Usually the place where you originally bought the RV can do the remodel for you as well, and if they cannot they can usually refer you to someone who can do the job for you. With the popularity of these vehicles constantly growing there are also many new dealerships and shops that specialize in these vacation vehicles. Having a comfortable vehicle to travel year round in or to just vacation in yearly is a great asset and can also be a great stress reliever. It is also a very popular vehicle for families to use on family camping trips, and the nice thing is that if the kids want to rough it while camping they can just sent their tents up right outside the RV.

[Biscuit1001]

oldtrucker63 wrote:
Trying to Quit smoking today, Cold Turkey, Started just a few Minuets ago I hope this go's good.:R Most of all I hope Charlene gives it her best, She is on the train with me, Together we can do this.:p

Quiting smoking a couple weeks before Christmas? Eeeepppp!

Good luck to both you and Charlene!

[coloradohoosier]

TreeSeeker wrote:

The truth is, an RV is a pretty small box to heat or cool, so the benefits of insulating, vapor blocking, etc., are probably pretty marginal when it comes right down to it.

I am not so sure. We have friends whose cabin was gutted and rebuilt with 6 inch insulated outside walls. They heat the LR/Kitchen (about 20x15 ft) with about 3-4 logs for an evening when it is in the 30s outside.

My living room is about 10x15 and is uninsulated. It takes about 10-12 logs to heat it when the temps are in the 40s.

So insulation can make a huge difference in the amount of energy required for heating. Granted the amount of fuel to heat even an uninsulated RV would be much less than heating an insulated house, but you are limited in the amount of fuel you can carry. So, if you have good insulation in your RV your limited fuel will last much longer.

I think the vapor barrier is important because the humidity in an RV will be higher than in a house since you have such a small space. People are still expelling just as much water vapor in their breath and you are also cooking. So the same amount of water vapor is being generated as in a house. If this vapor is condensing on the inside of the RV walls then you are going to have mold problems.

You're right, TreeSeeker. I didn't mean that the benefits are nominal, but just that exactly how thoroughly one does it is less critical than in a year round residence. I guess I wasn't clear. I built my daughters a two story playhouse years ago (11x7 main floor and 11x5 upstairs) and insulated it. In the middle of winter a small ceramic space heater will keep it toasty warm, and once it warms up the thermostat on the unit hardly kicks it on. That's with single pane storm windows that I used as primary windows because I got them for free.

[coloradohoosier]

lzasitko wrote:

And I too have been in Construction for almost 40 years. I have done everything from Design (still do a lot these days for other people) to building.

I have built everything from small houses to large care homes and up here building code says that the ceiling has to have a vapour barrier. You can use the paper faced insulation but here it is not that common, fiberglas, rockwool (Spun rock, non combustible) sprayed foam (only way you don't need a vapour barrier as it seals itself) sprayed in cellulose (Paper) etc are more common.

Walls are always sealed as tight as possible and in a house it is very common to see air to air heat exchangers. No matter how tight there is no such thing as air-tight, air will always find a way in. You are right in that up here furnaces have their own fresh air vent.

I know that homes and other building usually have an air space above the insulation in the roof and venting properly is required so that moisture does not accumulate. And yes RV's are a different process but the basics still apply. RV's will never be sealed as tight as a house, there are simply too many ways for air to get in and out.

I will disagree with your comment about it not being worth it to seal it as tight as possible. If it was me rebuilding an RV I would spray foam the whole inside instead of using batt insulation. Any time you can slow heat loose and limit air movement it will cost less to heat or cool.

also my two cents worth 🙂

I can't speak on how things are done that far north, Izasitco. I know how they are done in Colorado, and how they were done 35 years ago around Chicago (before I moved west). I've seen the blue sprayed foam on television, on the Holmes on Homes Show, but if it is used around here I haven't seen it. Here attics are mostly blown with fiberglass in a new build, though the big box stores sell cellulose as well --- homeowners usually blow that into old house attics that weren't insulated prior to WWII. Unfaced fiberglass batts are the second most common approach, usually R30, but as high as R45. Here, if one goes to Home Depot or Lowe's, they will never find faced insulation recomended for attics. You can now purchase fully encapsulated batts that make the installation more pleasant, but the film around the fiberglass is not a barrier. I don't know if building codes preclude vapor barriers at the lid --- I just know that standard practice does. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that we're a dry, high plains climate. I know some building engineers, so will try to remember to ask one of them.

I used to work in the aftermarket home products field, installing sunrooms and the patio rooms that are basically styrafoam panels with skins. Condensation was always an issue with them, so I tend to prefer erring toward the less moisture tight side.

I only use rockwool to insulate basement ceilings for sound (because it is so dense) and as chinking for fireblocking. Otherwise, it is mostly used in commercial construction here. I'm a residential contractor.

[EMD360]

My dad quit too and it was his wife who helped him do it. (Go Lady Trucker!) He once said that before he quit, he could not imagine a day without smoking and after he quit could not imagine smoking again. He probably lived longer because of the decision, but he definitely lived healthier up to the last few years anyway. We grew up with both parents smoking but never started. Maybe it was all the publicity about cancer or just the urge to be different from the old folks.
I think one of the reasons this thread is so popular is how good the explanations are about how and why you make the decisions about each step. Also the great photos--and the sheer volume of work and talent it has taken to get this RV back together. This was an interesting discussion about the use of insulation.

[4Eddielee]

All 4 of the people that I personally know that quit cold turkey all did so on the diagnosis of lung cancer. It can be done! My father quit after 62 years of smoking and died of lung cancer 11 years later. My father-in-law died at 63. My sister-in-law died of lung cancer at age 48. My mother of cancer at age 44. My son has had testicular cancer and my wife has had overian cancer. I'm surrounded by it.... Good luck OldTrucker, hope you caught it in time. All that coal dust doesn't help either - that stuff is almost as bad as asbestos or silicosis!

[lzasitko]

coloradohoosier wrote:
I suggested more research, OldTrucker. I don't know for sure what the best vapor barrier application is for an RV. I do know for certain that Izasitko is mistaken regarding houses though. I'm building contractor.

Faced insulation has a built in vapor barrier --- that's what the facing does. It isn't really the most efficient vapor barrier, but it is the most labor and cost effective, so is the standard approach. An alternative is to install plastic over the studs after insulating with non-faced insulation. Either way though, only walls (and crawlspace floors) get vapor barrier. Ceilings are always allowed to breath --- they always get non-faced isulation and no vapor barrier --- and air movement above the insulation is encouraged through venting of the attic, or the rafter cavities in the case of a vault ceiling. If a house is wrapped too tight, moisture will collect between the drywall and the vapor barrier, causing the fasteners to rust and the drywall to fail. Besides that, if a house were too tight the pilot lights and gas appliances would burn up the inside oxygen, and breathing occupents would consume it as well! It would take your family a while to breath up all of the oxygen in a house, but not that long in an RV. "YOU WANT IT AIR TIGHT!" is certainly wrong. Newer houses, because they are tighter than old ones, now bring outside air in for combustion in the furnace and water heater.


An RV is somewhat different, I'm sure. Most people don't even use them when temperatures are low enough to freeze the water tanks. The windows are also less efficient than modern windows in houses, so undoubtably there is infiltration there, and through the rooftop air if you have it --- as well as in the cab area (vans and cars aren't airtight.) The main thing I thought of when I suggested more research was the issue I pointed out about drywall and fasteners. I'd hate to see you finish your build, then find that moisture collected in your paneling, creating mildew, mold, or a musty smell. If it were me doing the build I would research the matter thoroughly, or not use vapor barrier along the top of the walls to be safe. Your siding will allow moisture transfer, but your roof will not (unlike a house roof which is vented). You don't really have to worry about your heating/cooling bill like in a house, because the RV is so small, so concerns about it being completely tight for that reason are largely unfounded.

That's my 2-cents --- remember what you paid for it.

And I too have been in Construction for almost 40 years. I have done everything from Design (still do a lot these days for other people) to building.

I have built everything from small houses to large care homes and up here building code says that the ceiling has to have a vapour barrier. You can use the paper faced insulation but here it is not that common, fiberglas, rockwool (Spun rock, non combustible) sprayed foam (only way you don't need a vapour barrier as it seals itself) sprayed in cellulose (Paper) etc are more common.

Walls are always sealed as tight as possible and in a house it is very common to see air to air heat exchangers. No matter how tight there is no such thing as air-tight, air will always find a way in. You are right in that up here furnaces have their own fresh air vent.

I know that homes and other building usually have an air space above the insulation in the roof and venting properly is required so that moisture does not accumulate. And yes RV's are a different process but the basics still apply. RV's will never be sealed as tight as a house, there are simply too many ways for air to get in and out.

I will disagree with your comment about it not being worth it to seal it as tight as possible. If it was me rebuilding an RV I would spray foam the whole inside instead of using batt insulation. Any time you can slow heat loose and limit air movement it will cost less to heat or cool.

also my two cents worth 🙂

[TreeSeeker]

The truth is, an RV is a pretty small box to heat or cool, so the benefits of insulating, vapor blocking, etc., are probably pretty marginal when it comes right down to it.

I am not so sure. We have friends whose cabin was gutted and rebuilt with 6 inch insulated outside walls. They heat the LR/Kitchen (about 20x15 ft) with about 3-4 logs for an evening when it is in the 30s outside.

My living room is about 10x15 and is uninsulated. It takes about 10-12 logs to heat it when the temps are in the 40s.

So insulation can make a huge difference in the amount of energy required for heating. Granted the amount of fuel to heat even an uninsulated RV would be much less than heating an insulated house, but you are limited in the amount of fuel you can carry. So, if you have good insulation in your RV your limited fuel will last much longer.

I think the vapor barrier is important because the humidity in an RV will be higher than in a house since you have such a small space. People are still expelling just as much water vapor in their breath and you are also cooking. So the same amount of water vapor is being generated as in a house. If this vapor is condensing on the inside of the RV walls then you are going to have mold problems.

[oldtrucker63]

Or maybe just ship us a can of Carpet Glue to set next to our beds so we can dip our cigarettes in during the night, And just smoke free during the day....LOL

[oldtrucker63]

coloradohoosier wrote:
PS

I should quit smoking too. I don't want to read all of that carcinogen cr*p though. They're 'coffin nails', and people have known that for 100 years. What more do we need to know?
The rest of it is just backslapping.

Yeah But at $50 a carton they should a least let us burn our self up when we go to sleep with a lit cigarette or Give up a 4 pack of bic lighters with the carton.:M

[coloradohoosier]

oldtrucker63 wrote:
I do believe that the outer metal will let the inside walls breath, And lots of air will get inside through the old windows and the door as well as top vents, Inside the walls will get lots of air through the outer skin.

Just so you know, O.T., when I say "structure" I don't just mean it it the technical sense. I mean the interior too, the point of building the structure proper --- the "efficient cause", so to speak. The part you want to enjoy, and I don't think that you'll seal it too tight and suffocate the family -- or that the pilots will go out and gas them.

The truth is, an RV is a pretty small box to heat or cool, so the benefits of insulating, vapor blocking, etc., are probably pretty marginal when it comes right down to it.

[coloradohoosier]

PS

I should quit smoking too. I don't want to read all of that carcinogen cr*p though. They're 'coffin nails', and people have known that for 100 years. What more do we need to know?
The rest of it is just backslapping.

[oldtrucker63]

I do believe that the outer metal will let the inside walls breath, And lots of air will get inside through the old windows and the door as well as top vents, Inside the walls will get lots of air through the outer skin.

[coloradohoosier]

oldtrucker63 wrote:

lzasitko wrote:

coloradohoosier wrote:
I'm not sure if you want it all air tight. One thing I haven't seen mentioned when talking about insulation and vapor barrier in houses is that ceilings always use non-faced insulation. You want excess moisture and humidity to exit the structure (this is also partly why attics are vented at the soffits and up high). Your roof ia already a sealed membrane, so you might be best off if you end your vabor barrier six or eight inches from the top of the walls, intentionally allowing a place for vapor to exit. I can't say for certain, but suggest you do more research before sealing it all too tight. I'd hate to see you end up with unwanted water condensation inside after you're all done.

YOU WANT IT AIR TIGHT!

When building a house or a motorhome your worst enemy is air movement or air infiltration. If you can stop air from coming in or going out it is easier to heat or cool. The plastic is a vapour barrier same as in any house and is must be placed on the warm side of the wall as this is where moisture will condense. Insulation does let some air movement (batt insulation) which will help keep things dry. The Roof or exterior of most structures are not air tight. Houses these days are wrapped in a fabric (like Tyvek) which allows moisture to escape, but resists water penetration from outside. Even metal siding is not completely air tight (you still have joints or overlaps).

I think your right, And Like coloradohoosier has said there needs to be air movement to allow moister humidity to exit the structure, In a house the attic is vented to allow this air movement, In this old dodge RV the outer metal siding allows this air movement, Only I believe the air inside of a RV should not be allow to reach the outer walls, The metal skin will let the air move to dry any condensation on the metals inter side and this should be the only place that condensation will gather as long as the air inside the RV is limited to inside the RV wall, The air inside the RV, AC or Heating should not reach the outer skin because this is what causes condensation, I believe a RV is a bit different than a house,

I suggested more research, OldTrucker. I don't know for sure what the best vapor barrier application is for an RV. I do know for certain that Izasitko is mistaken regarding houses though. I'm building contractor.

Faced insulation has a built in vapor barrier --- that's what the facing does. It isn't really the most efficient vapor barrier, but it is the most labor and cost effective, so is the standard approach. An alternative is to install plastic over the studs after insulating with non-faced insulation. Either way though, only walls (and crawlspace floors) get vapor barrier. Ceilings are always allowed to breath --- they always get non-faced isulation and no vapor barrier --- and air movement above the insulation is encouraged through venting of the attic, or the rafter cavities in the case of a vault ceiling. If a house is wrapped too tight, moisture will collect between the drywall and the vapor barrier, causing the fasteners to rust and the drywall to fail. Besides that, if a house were too tight the pilot lights and gas appliances would burn up the inside oxygen, and breathing occupents would consume it as well! It would take your family a while to breath up all of the oxygen in a house, but not that long in an RV. "YOU WANT IT AIR TIGHT!" is certainly wrong. Newer houses, because they are tighter than old ones, now bring outside air in for combustion in the furnace and water heater.


An RV is somewhat different, I'm sure. Most people don't even use them when temperatures are low enough to freeze the water tanks. The windows are also less efficient than modern windows in houses, so undoubtably there is infiltration there, and through the rooftop air if you have it --- as well as in the cab area (vans and cars aren't airtight.) The main thing I thought of when I suggested more research was the issue I pointed out about drywall and fasteners. I'd hate to see you finish your build, then find that moisture collected in your paneling, creating mildew, mold, or a musty smell. If it were me doing the build I would research the matter thoroughly, or not use vapor barrier along the top of the walls to be safe. Your siding will allow moisture transfer, but your roof will not (unlike a house roof which is vented). You don't really have to worry about your heating/cooling bill like in a house, because the RV is so small, so concerns about it being completely tight for that reason are largely unfounded.

That's my 2-cents --- remember what you paid for it.

[lockdoc]

oldtrucker63 wrote:
Trying to Quit smoking today, Cold Turkey, Started just a few Minuets ago I hope this go's good.:R Most of all I hope Charlene gives it her best, She is on the train with me, Together we can do this.:p

Good luck to you both on quitting! I walked away from chewing tobacco after about 25 years of addiction. The biggest hurdle is realizing that that little white stick is NOT going to control you any longer. I used the nicotine lozenge when the craving got too bad....but I used them sparingly and did not get or remain addicted to them.

It has been fun following your build progress and I am sure that you can hardly wait to try it out once you get it done enough! Thanks for keeping up with the posting so some of us can live vicariously through you! :B

[oldtrucker63]

Anyone know of any more builds going on with pixs, I would like to look at some.???? Class C Class A or Pull Trailers