Upgrading stock Winnebago power converter

[arcticgps]

We have had 2 RVs before our latest, a nearly new Winnebago 31J Chalet. In our first rig I cooked off a new battery in just a few months with a single stage power converter but solved the problem by installing smart charging multi-stage converter.

The new rig has a single stage Parallax 3700 series power converter with two 6 v. batteries. I want to put a multi-stage charger on.

Anyone have any suggestions?

I really like the Progressive Dynamics with Charge Wizard I had in our most recent rig. The Parallax can be upgraded.. I think.

[travisc]

Go the best converter route, with a progressive dynamics unit- we did this on our 2008 Winnebago after the parallax blew a cap and couldn't hold 12 volts under load.

[Just_Lee]

I just today replaced my Schumacher today with a PowerMax PM4B-60 Amp 4 Stage it was a challenge running the wires and finding a place to mount it, but I am pretty sure it will be worth the work. I also have the Trik-L-Start...

Good Luck LeeB

[Dakzuki]

arcticgps wrote:
More good tips, Thanks!

I like the trickle charger on the vehicle battery idea too. I have those on our regular vehicles too. We have block heaters to pre-warm the engine when it is cold. Some people put pad or blanket heaters on their batteries to warm them as well but a local battery guy convinced me years ago to use a trickle charger instead. It warms the battery from the inside and always ensures we have a full charge to start.

Works like a charm at -40º!

I just have to figure out where I should tap into the rig's 110 system.

The Trick-L-Start doesn't run on 110. It is connected to the house 12 volt side. If the house batteries are maintaining so will the chassis battery.

[Olddud]

Well, I just replaced my Parallax 7345 converter with the PD 4645 kit, based on just learning I may have overcharged my battery (water low). It was easy, but the instructions were confusing in a couple areas, and a little light on information in a couple others. My old board had soldered in DC wires, not screw type, which made it a bit of a challenge, and not mentioned in the instructions.

Also, the "pigtail" instruction said not to connect 2 wires to the breaker, but in effect, there are 3 or 4 wires connected (wire from breaker, wire from converter, wire from a grommet out the backside of the AC section, and previously used but now unused wire from the breaker that went to the old converter). I wire-nutted the wire from the breaker, converter, and grommet together and left the unused wire (which had a covered female end) in the bottom of the panel.

Anyhow, filled the battery with distilled water, turned the converter on, nothing smoked, everything worked, and the "bad" battery was charging at 14.46 volts. Will check later to see if the voltage drops.

[Bobbo]

The Trik-L-Start doesn't use 110v, it only uses the 12v system. I went to the relay that connects the batteries together in an emergency. I put the input wire on the side of it that is connected to the house battery/converter, the output wire on the side connected to the chassis battery, and the ground wire to the body of the relay since it is grounded to the frame. It just bypasses the relay. The Trik-L-Start has a diode in it to prevent power being transmitted the wrong direction, and will provide 5 amps to the chassis battery anytime either the house battery is turned on, or the converter is supplying power.

[arcticgps]

More good tips, Thanks!

I like the trickle charger on the vehicle battery idea too. I have those on our regular vehicles too. We have block heaters to pre-warm the engine when it is cold. Some people put pad or blanket heaters on their batteries to warm them as well but a local battery guy convinced me years ago to use a trickle charger instead. It warms the battery from the inside and always ensures we have a full charge to start.

Works like a charm at -40º!

I just have to figure out where I should tap into the rig's 110 system.

[Subyguy]

I used a intelltec bi-directional-isolater-relay-delay or bird.
And mounted it under my step next to may charge relay to charge my engine battery when on shore power. It also put a delay in charging the house batteries off if the engine to give so it is not such a hard hit on the alternator when you first start the engine

[Bobbo]

Dakzuki wrote:
While you're at it install a Trik-L-Start to maintain your chassis battery while plugged in.

I did that too, but a couple of years earlier.

[Dakzuki]

I did the same thing. It was an easy swap. Shop around on line and you can get a good deal. While you're at it install a Trik-L-Start to maintain your chassis battery while plugged in.

[arcticgps]

Wow, great responses, thanks folks. Especially Bobbo that had already done this. It is a bit of cash to drop but I remember loosing a nearly new battery AND having a chilly weekend trip because of it. Well worth the investment.

I'll check to make sure it won't mess with my warranty and get my screwdriver.

Thanks all.

[Subyguy]

I did a progressive dynamics in my 31 Minnie before I upgraded again to a xantrax invertor I bought both from www.rvpartssource.net they were the cheapest

[Bobbo]

I put in a Progressive Dynamics PD4655V from www.bestconverter.com. It comes in 35amp, 45amp and 55amp. It is a direct slide out/slide in replacement for a Parallax 7300 unit - with one exception. It comes with a new 12v distribution board with the monitor light and charge wizard button on it. If you don't want to swap out the power board, best converter has instructions for modifying a charge wizard pendant for a PD9100 series converter to work with the 4600 series.

[rvten]

X2 I just replaced mine with a Progressive Dynamatics from this store.
Easy replacement.

[tenbear]

The PD4600 series converter is a plug and play replacement for the 7300 series. Check out this link for details.