water heater winterizing question

[bobman]

I have a 93 coachman B and there no shower or anything for the hot side but the sink. I am trying to leave for Montana and temps can easily get down in the low 20s at night, should be 40s and 50s daytime.

This is a nice B bit there is no insulation under the side buck where the water heater is and its mounted on the outside wall because its propane fired.

I have a wave 6 cat heater and think I'll be able to keep it warm enough in the camper for most of the plumbing but not for that water heater on the outside wall.

so here's my question

Do you think I would be ok to just stuff a bunch of insulation inside the compartment door of the water heater or do I need to drain it??



I know there are water heater bypasses but I really don't want to get into it because I am leaving tomorrow.

I could just cap off the line going to the heater and drain it. But again I don't like screwing with 20 year old plumbing if I don't need to.

thanks

Bob

PS I don't even know if the heater works I've never used it in the 2 years I've owned this camper

[bobman]

Well I bought both new thermostats and a new valve off amazon of all places...installed them and its working perfect

thanks for the help

[bobman]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Take it that the normal t-stat was not opening and that the water was getting very hot until ECO t-stat opened.....correct?

Just remember.....if ECO should fail to open it will continue heating until the PRV (press/temp relief valve opens) at 210*F/150# and it will blow very hot steam out of valve.
Point is.......exercise the PRV at least once a year via lever with water supply on to blow out valve seat of any build up/debris.

Yes that's what happened the ECO did function though

I'll do that with the valve thanks for the tip

[Old-Biscuit]

Take it that the normal t-stat was not opening and that the water was getting very hot until ECO t-stat opened.....correct?

Just remember.....if ECO should fail to open it will continue heating until the PRV (press/temp relief valve opens) at 210*F/150# and it will blow very hot steam out of valve.
Point is.......exercise the PRV at least once a year via lever with water supply on to blow out valve seat of any build up/debris.

[bobman]

thanks its the top one I did a continuity test and figured out that the T stat has failed so I have ordered a kit with both it and the emergency cut off T stat ( which did work) and will replace both of them. Should have them Monday.

anyone looking for them FWIW I found the best price and delivery on amazon

You've been a big help and I do appreciate it

Bob

[Old-Biscuit]

What water heater style do you have :H


One like this.....electronic ignitor



OR

One like this....




Top one......
Turn ON/OFF switch to ON
Spark electrode lights main flame
When water temp is reached t-stat opens (preset 140*F) main flame turns off
When water temp goes below 110*F ----t-stat closes. Spark electrode lights off main flame


Bottom one....
Turn gas control knob to 'pilot'
You light pilot flame with BBQ lighter, a piezo lighter OR ON switch with 'reignitor system'
Pilot flame lights...turn knob to ON main flame lights from pilot
When water temp is reached (temp control setting on gas valve either round knob or lever) main flame goes out...pilot stays lit
Water temp cools off....main flame lit by pilot
(Turn OFF pilot goes out until you light next time)

You probably have top one....electronic spark (DC voltage)
Set of t-stats under foam cover (brown wires to/from t-stat and red wires to/from ECO) 'Normal' t-stat preset to open 140*F ECO (high temp) t-stat preset to open 180*F

[bobman]

well after thinking about it I realized that if it has a piezo igniter there isn't any pilot light. What I thought was the pilot light was a tiny bit of gas leaking thru the main valve and staying lit. I think the valve wasn't seated all the way closed, which doesn't surprise me because its not been used in over two years.

I've cycled it several time now and the valve is closing " no imaginary pilot light" and no smell of propane.

I checked the fittings with dish soap and water and cannot detect any leaky fittings


I do have a question this should cycle off on its own when the target temp is reached ...how long does that take???

[bobman]

senf wrote:
What a waste of wine!!!!!

he could of recovered it LOL

[senf]

What a waste of wine!!!!!

[Golden_HVAC]

Any amount of insulation will not help prevent the tank from freezing. This is because the inlet and outlet of the flue is where most of the heat is lost, as cold air goes into the flue pipe, then warms up to near the water temp, and goes out the top!

So you have one quick choice. Leave the heater on, and it will stay above 35F. You can shut it off for hours at a time, but keep it above 55F when you go to sleep, and it should stay warm all night. Still I would be turning it on at midnight if you get up anyway, or first thing in the morning to make sure it does not freeze.

You can also drain all the water lines, blow air into the lines, and then not use the RV water lines. Then carry a couple of gallons of water to flush with, or drinking and cleaning.

Chances are that the grey water tank drain line can also freeze. This can crack that fitting too. Driving in 30F temps can quickly remove all heat from the tank and it's valve.

My buddy added a gallon of cheap wine to the RV when camping at the Olympics in New York. This prevented the fresh water tank from freezing, and helped prevent the black water tank from freezing solid. He drove south after the Olympics, and then allowed everything to thaw before trying to drain it.

Fred.

[n7bsn]

bobman wrote:


thanks that's a huge help I just went out there in my drive and can smell a faint smell of propane near the water heater is that just normal after they've been run?

I am wondering if I should go out and shut the valve on the propane tank, if I do that it will screw up my test on whether the frig will eventually cool down.

Smell is certainly NOT normal. The smell from the pilot should dissipate in moments. If the smell persists you have an issue you can't ignore.

[bobman]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
That is an Atwood water heater

HERE is a manual that covers your model

thanks that's a huge help I just went out there in my drive and can smell a faint smell of propane near the water heater is that just normal after they've been run?

I am wondering if I should go out and shut the valve on the propane tank, if I do that it will screw up my test on whether the frig will eventually cool down.

[Old-Biscuit]

That is an Atwood water heater

HERE is a manual that covers your model

[n7bsn]

bobman wrote:

NO I will be on the prairie in the north east corner next week looks OK but I am worrying because I was looking at the " possibilities" based on what the record lows have been.

maybe I am worrying about nothing I will be there until OCT 31 then back to Georgia

I would worry more about where you are going to be staying. That area is impacted by the Bakkan oil boom. If you don't have a pre-arranged place, you might be parked in a store lot.

[bobman]

There is no manufacturer name on the water heater

the model number Is MPD93306

the manual number per the door is MPD93756 (I don't have a manual)

I am an equipment salesman and very aware of the necessity of knowing model and serial numbers

there is NO manufacturer name listed on the info on the door where I found the rest of the above can anyone recognize those numbers ??

thanks again