What did you do to your Class A MH today???

[Rich_Panganiban]

This is always a fun thread to watch, so I thought I would start one here.

[cvbdsl]

Blew the snow from out around during some recent mild weather. Went inside for the first time in six weeks. Found out all the batteries (both chassis and house) seem to be dead). Plugged in the shore power and left it for a day. Tried to start genny but starter only whines and does not engage. Tried to start the MH but nothing - not even the normal relay click when turning the disconnects off or on.

Just hooked up a battery charger for the chassis and will see if I can get her running. I might have a lot of work ahead to see why everything went dead so quick. Weather getting colder again so might have to wait til spring.

Chris

[1fanman]

Did a full walk-around, checked tires and serviced batteries.

[SRT]

Got the snowblower/tractor out again and removed the fresh snow fall from the driveway and in front of the MH garage door.

[BigRabbitMan]

Replaced the propane tank fill valve and service/shutoff valve.

[TZScales]

I performed a walkaround just to see what was happening or not. This is routine for me.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

Climbed onto the roof once the heat was out of the sun, cleaned the dirt off the solar panels, measured the length of cables from the panels in preparation to improving the system.

[tropical36]

xctraveler wrote:

tropical36 wrote:

xctraveler wrote:
More repairs, minimal mods. Bedroom Slideout motor failed, had mobile tech (H & H Truck Service Fort Stockton TX) retract slide and drove to Las Cruces had Sunland RV order new motor and install. Also had them install new Trojan T105s as old ones were failing after almost 8 years - can't complain although I am less than thrilled with the price I paid and the way they did the install. They routed the cables so I will need to remove them in order to check water level.

Replaced more lights with LEDS. Waiting for some switches from Fleetwood to replace worn switches.

I certainly wouldn't be thrilled with the price either and not to be critical here, but are you capable of doing any of this yourself?
For instance, I can manually crank my slide in about the same amount of time it takes to get some tools from the bottom of my tool box. I can change the power gear motor/gearbox assembly for the slide room in less than half an hour conservatively. The last time I changed out my house batteries, was in a WA State Sam's club parking lot, during lunch and while DW was in the store shopping. Don't have to move anything to check the water level either, but do keep a mirror in that location, so as to see better.

I have a very sore wrist and have had back problems in the past. I am not likely to try to move heavy batteries into an awkward location (under the top step in the entryway). The cost of the mechanic is much less than the deductible on my health insurance not to mention the loss of time. Once I relocate the cables I won't need to move anything or use a mirror. As for the slide, now that I have seen what is involved I can certainly hand crank a room in or out. As for changing out the motor and gearbox I am sure I could do it, but again the labor charge was by far the smallest part of the expense in this case. I cannot believe what I was charged for the motor and gear case - over $500. Shop time was an hour.

Sorry to hear of your medical problems.
Do have to say, that you really lucked out with the motor/gearbox ass'y, if it was a new one, cuz you could easily pay a $1000 for one. I think I stole mine from a dealer for $675 and sold my old one for parts to a member here.

[koda55]

Put six new Toyo 134 tires on.

[st687]

Removed the bladder tank and re-plumbed part of the water bay with Sea Tech fittings:@

[charles]

Got my automatic steps to work, at this point it seems to have been a dirty or loose connection. Much easier to work under their when the levellers are down and it's 75 degrees.

Nick
2011 Winnebago Vista 35F

[xctraveler]

tropical36 wrote:

xctraveler wrote:
More repairs, minimal mods. Bedroom Slideout motor failed, had mobile tech (H & H Truck Service Fort Stockton TX) retract slide and drove to Las Cruces had Sunland RV order new motor and install. Also had them install new Trojan T105s as old ones were failing after almost 8 years - can't complain although I am less than thrilled with the price I paid and the way they did the install. They routed the cables so I will need to remove them in order to check water level.

Replaced more lights with LEDS. Waiting for some switches from Fleetwood to replace worn switches.

I certainly wouldn't be thrilled with the price either and not to be critical here, but are you capable of doing any of this yourself?
For instance, I can manually crank my slide in about the same amount of time it takes to get some tools from the bottom of my tool box. I can change the power gear motor/gearbox assembly for the slide room in less than half an hour conservatively. The last time I changed out my house batteries, was in a WA State Sam's club parking lot, during lunch and while DW was in the store shopping. Don't have to move anything to check the water level either, but do keep a mirror in that location, so as to see better.

I have a very sore wrist and have had back problems in the past. I am not likely to try to move heavy batteries into an awkward location (under the top step in the entryway). The cost of the mechanic is much less than the deductible on my health insurance not to mention the loss of time. Once I relocate the cables I won't need to move anything or use a mirror. As for the slide, now that I have seen what is involved I can certainly hand crank a room in or out. As for changing out the motor and gearbox I am sure I could do it, but again the labor charge was by far the smallest part of the expense in this case. I cannot believe what I was charged for the motor and gear case - over $500. Shop time was an hour.

[tropical36]

xctraveler wrote:
More repairs, minimal mods. Bedroom Slideout motor failed, had mobile tech (H & H Truck Service Fort Stockton TX) retract slide and drove to Las Cruces had Sunland RV order new motor and install. Also had them install new Trojan T105s as old ones were failing after almost 8 years - can't complain although I am less than thrilled with the price I paid and the way they did the install. They routed the cables so I will need to remove them in order to check water level.

Replaced more lights with LEDS. Waiting for some switches from Fleetwood to replace worn switches.

I certainly wouldn't be thrilled with the price either and not to be critical here, but are you capable of doing any of this yourself?
For instance, I can manually crank my slide in about the same amount of time it takes to get some tools from the bottom of my tool box. I can change the power gear motor/gearbox assembly for the slide room in less than half an hour conservatively. The last time I changed out my house batteries, was in a WA State Sam's club parking lot, during lunch and while DW was in the store shopping. Don't have to move anything to check the water level either, but do keep a mirror in that location, so as to see better.

[tropical36]

Kevgrn114 wrote:
Replaced my cam actuator switch for the auto park brake. Had to install and uninstall, adjust, install, uninstall, adjust, install... etc.. finally got it just right.... 97 chevy P30 chassis. I've learned a lot about it now....

Ummmm, mine doesn't have the cam if we're talking the same thing here.
It has a connection to another steel rod in that location, that connects to a switch plate that's bolted to driver's side of the transmission.
I know of the cam configuration, but didn't think they we're still being used on a 97. So, if your chassis is a 97, what year is the coach?

[Kevgrn114]

Replaced my cam actuator switch for the auto park brake. Had to install and uninstall, adjust, install, uninstall, adjust, install... etc.. finally got it just right.... 97 chevy P30 chassis. I've learned a lot about it now....

[anemic]

piano tuna,

hi. I diagonaled them, first with shortest possible cables to each and then yesterday I optimized with four pair equal length cables yesterday, to a common bolt on each pole. thanks for the tip. I did that because I saw YOUR post elsewhere the other day about making sure to have equal length cables to have the same impedance, thus maxing out the service life of the batteries. Textbook Method 3 from the smartgage page. Batteries hate the cold eh!