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What did you do to your Class C MH today???

Rich_Panganiban
Explorer
Explorer
This is always a fun thread to watch in other forums, so I thought I'd start one here.
2007 Jayco Greyhawk - Kodiak 32SS
'00 Subaru Outback Wagon
4,455 REPLIES 4,455

rehoppe
Explorer
Explorer
Herm---what ically Sealed? Think that's the way to go.

If you don't let it in,,, you don't have to worry about letting it out. Much like rodents.
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
W4MBG wrote:
replant: i read somewhere that sealing the cover to the roof was a bad idea. water gets in eventually but cant get back out. but i like the idea of just sealing the front edge to prevent water from being driven under the cover from driving in the rain.
If the light is sealed the right way by the time that water gets in, It will be time to replace the light.:B
Without Trucks,....America Stop's

W4MBG
Explorer
Explorer
replant: i read somewhere that sealing the cover to the roof was a bad idea. water gets in eventually but cant get back out. but i like the idea of just sealing the front edge to prevent water from being driven under the cover from driving in the rain.
1999 Winnebago Minnie, 29', Triton V10, mostly stock. So far...

rehoppe
Explorer
Explorer
oldtrucker63 wrote:
TreeSeeker wrote:
Most of the lights I have seen all have these kinds of design problems. I think a ten year old kid could do a better design. I caulk all mine with ProFlex RV.
When I put my new lights on I also caulk it all, No water in, No Need to let it out...right.


Couldn't agree more. Make it all solid so you have less chance of internal leakage, This concept is especially true I think on the front where the air pressure from below causes the water to run 'uphill'. I seal around the wires and the light base as much as possible. The damage I've seen in the CO has been as much from the Markers, as from the front window.or seams.

Fortunately my experience with this kind of damage is limited. :B
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT

snowdance
Explorer
Explorer
I did a roof inspection as its getting to fall. Last year I resealed and put snow roof on the rubber roof of our 2000 Jamboree. Happy to say it is in great shape. Last fall I found a small soft spot in the roof near the sky light in the shower. I was in a bit of a hurry last year and it was minor so just let it stay.

I have more time now and looked into it. I pulled the skylight inside and found that when the one piece roof was made there was a channel for a 1 X 1 1/2 steel tube to go thru. But because of the skylight it was left out. The soft spot was where some load on the spot had broken into the area of the missing steel tube. There was never a leak there.

After looking into it and finding I could just slide a piece of treated oak I made with a taper on the end into the area and the taper pushed the damaged area back up and give the area the support it need. I cleaned the skylight up and reinstalled. I had really thought I would have to do a roof repair but found that solved the problem.

The Snow roof looks like new and the roof is good for a few more years. I have a rubber roof on my garage thats been there for over 20 years. I have never had any problems and just keep it calked and use snow roof every 5 or 6 years or so. So the rubber roof on the motorhome is just more of the same for me.
Snowdance

We spent most of our money traveling... Just wasted the rest..

Chevy 7.4 Vortex
2000 Jamboree 23b Rear Kitchen

http://www.flickr.com/photos/snowdance38

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
TreeSeeker wrote:
Most of the lights I have seen all have these kinds of design problems. I think a ten year old kid could do a better design. I caulk all mine with ProFlex RV.
When I put my new lights on I also caulk it all, No water in, No Need to let it out...right.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's

snowdance
Explorer
Explorer
Replant wrote:
TreeSeeker wrote:
Most of the lights I have seen all have these kinds of design problems. I think a ten year old kid could do a better design. I caulk all mine with ProFlex RV.

x2. True, but a weep hole or two is necessary to prevent build up of leaking water therefore I'll drill holes on the bottom of the lamps.
As an additional precaution I applied a square of Eternabond tape to cover the large hole in the siding after making a slit for the wiring. Also put tape over the screw holes as a seal before inserting the screws. In other words - all points of water entry into the wall were sealed off, hopefully. ๐Ÿ˜„


I agree they need to drain. I usaly use my dramel and make a couple in the bottom. And often claulk the ones on the side when I caulk the light. A complete seal seals water in. You need some place for it to drain out even on the front of the motorhome. Not always the easiest thing to talk your self into.
Snowdance

We spent most of our money traveling... Just wasted the rest..

Chevy 7.4 Vortex
2000 Jamboree 23b Rear Kitchen

http://www.flickr.com/photos/snowdance38

Replant
Explorer
Explorer
TreeSeeker wrote:
Most of the lights I have seen all have these kinds of design problems. I think a ten year old kid could do a better design. I caulk all mine with ProFlex RV.

x2. True, but a weep hole or two is necessary to prevent build up of leaking water therefore I'll drill holes on the bottom of the lamps.
As an additional precaution I applied a square of Eternabond tape to cover the large hole in the siding after making a slit for the wiring. Also put tape over the screw holes as a seal before inserting the screws. In other words - all points of water entry into the wall were sealed off, hopefully. ๐Ÿ˜„

TreeSeeker
Explorer
Explorer
Most of the lights I have seen all have these kinds of design problems. I think a ten year old kid could do a better design. I caulk all mine with ProFlex RV.

Replant
Explorer
Explorer
Fixed a possible roof top leak at the antenna cable entry point and installed the red LED clearance lamps on the rear. Boy are they bright, even in the daytime. The rest of the amber ones for the front won't be here for another week. For some reason, instead of on the bottom, the drain holes are on the sides in line with the hole leading to the circuitry. Must be the Chinese way of doing things. Anyway I corrected the problem by adding Permabond. Didn't want to risk making a drain hole on the bottom with a nibbler tool.

Replant
Explorer
Explorer
W4MBG wrote:
started installing the vent covers. i picked up the Ramble brand covers pretty cheap, and i am hoping for the best. the rv is parked in the shade, so uv shouldn't be an issue. also washed off the leaves and grime from Irene last weekend.

Did you put any kind of seal or deflector between the roof and bottom of the covers? I leave covered vents open but over time all kinds of leaves collect on top of the screen.

W4MBG
Explorer
Explorer
started installing the vent covers. i picked up the Ramble brand covers pretty cheap, and i am hoping for the best. the rv is parked in the shade, so uv shouldn't be an issue. also washed off the leaves and grime from Irene last weekend.
1999 Winnebago Minnie, 29', Triton V10, mostly stock. So far...

Replant
Explorer
Explorer
Hi OT. Yeah this thing can't rust. To hold the end caps on I tapped the bumper for #8-32 aluminum knurled head bolts. I think they were used on aluminum windows.
BTW, the other day I ordered 5 LED amber clearance lamps from Amazon for $7.43 each. They only had 1 so now I guess I'll have to wait for the "Slow Boat from China" to complete the order. :Z

oldtrucker63
Explorer
Explorer
Replant wrote:
EMD360 wrote:
Is that a piece of gutter? I really like that slide out tray!

Yep, it's a thin walled vinyl gutter and slides in and out easily.
That is nice work there buddy.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's

Replant
Explorer
Explorer
EMD360 wrote:
Is that a piece of gutter? I really like that slide out tray!

Yep, it's a thin walled vinyl gutter and slides in and out easily.