wheel simulator installation

[photobug]

Trying to figure out how to get my front wheel simulator back on. Tire shop took the wheels off to replace the tires, then couldn't get it back on. Problem is, the simulators are held on by nuts attached to the wheel studs, but once the main lug nuts for the wheels are on, there's only 1 thread left on the stud. Install the simulator, and there's not enough threads to even bite into a nut. I bought new stainless steel nuts thinking the edges on the old ones were stripped enough to not bite, but that didn't work either. Only options I see are longer studs or thinner wheel nuts. Online and Ford dealer could only find original studs, (not sure how long stock studs are without taking whole thing apart). Thinner lug nuts might work, but reluctant to reduce strength of said nuts since they hold the wheel on and 14k worth of rig rolling down the road loosing a front wheel is pretty scary. There's got to be some way to fix this? With all the rigs running down the road are they all about ready to fall off?

[DaCrema]

Look inside the cap nut that holds the simulator on. The hub extender may be inside that. Remove the extender from the cap nut using a proper size hex wrench. Use the same hex wrench to install the extender onto the wheel lug. Do not use lock tight or anything like that.
On Lazy Daze mid bath the two wrenches (the hex and "T" handle for the cap nut) were normally kept in the rear passenger side with the spare tire. It may be inside the wheel or behind the spare.
John
07MB

[blownstang01]

Try These http://www.pacificdualies.com/34-2000e-stud-extender/
They still only engage a couple turns on your factory studs, but it's much easier to install and tighten these without trying to hold /attach the simulator at the same time.

[Beverley_Ken]

I checked mine today, all lug nuts and studs on front axle, are identical. I have no idea on how to secure, even with new simulator lug nuts.

Ken

[photobug]

front simulators are ok, I just can't get them to stay on. Easy to clean, just take them off, stick them in the dishwasher 😛 back ones are a little harder but since I have a removable fender skirt, you can't see them much anyways

[turbojimmy]

OFDPOS wrote:
I know NOT the answer your looking for...

If you wind up getting new simulators ?
I ordered some from Pacific Dualies for my 2005 Chevy chassis MH.
Stainless steal and looked great.

They were held on by three of the lug-nuts , then the center cap was held on with two screws. Unless you were standing right next to the wheel you couldn't tell they were actually wheel simulators...

Yeah I doubt he needs new wheel simulators, but I second the Pacific Dualies comment. I got mine from them and they are really nice. People are blown away that I'd drop the coin for polished aluminum wheels for my old Allegro. Then I have to tell them they're not real. They keep their shine really well too. Mine get filthy because my RV sits in the dirt 99.9% of the time. I just wash them with normal car wash soap and they come right back up. No polishing or anything else.

[Beverley_Ken]

I too have the same problem, after service (I always remove the wheel simulators and TPMS sensors before taking in), I could not get the chrome covered nuts to hold. I bought new simulator nuts, but to no avail.
I will take chinrv "and found that by examining ALL the lug nuts, some are "not as thick" as others, and also ,more probably, some of the studs seem to have more threads showing" and check it out tomorrow. Hopefully that solves the problem.

Ken

[photobug]

wonder if the tire shop took both front wheels off at the same time and mixed up the nuts? The ones on the exposed wheel all seem to be the same size. Who thought it was a good idea only hold an assembly on with 1 thread?

[chinrv]

I've experienced the same problem in the past (2000 Ford 450 Super Duty) and found that by examining ALL the lug nuts, some are "not as thick" as others, and also ,more probably, some of the studs seem to have more threads showing. If possible, locate the thinner nuts and relocate them (take them off and put them on the studs that you'll use for the nuts to attach the simulators), or re-position the wheels so the studs showing more threads will line up with the holes for the simulator nuts. Even check the lug nuts on the back wheels. Good luck.......don't forget to torque them, or do the changeover and go back to the tire shop and have them re-torque the wheels.

[OFDPOS]

I know NOT the answer your looking for...

If you wind up getting new simulators ?
I ordered some from Pacific Dualies for my 2005 Chevy chassis MH.
Stainless steal and looked great.

They were held on by three of the lug-nuts , then the center cap was held on with two screws. Unless you were standing right next to the wheel you couldn't tell they were actually wheel simulators...

[j-d]

If anything, and you don't want to buy new "jam nuts" You could remove the actual nut from the shell of the jam nuts you have and grind one side down, so flat that that first thread-and-a-half was new again. Then clean it up and re-assemble with epoxy. Somebody went to do the typical Tire Shop Over Torque and cleaned the first thread out of the jam nuts.
I'd be surprised if the thread on the tips of the studs got removed. I think you'll find the stud thread is 9/16" by 18/inch.

[Travelin2]

Always, always remove your simulators yourself before taking it to a tire shop. It is very simple and easy to do and it is very common to get an inexperienced tire man that doesn't realize the frailties of the attachment nuts. Invariably they will strip the threads of the simulator nut when they reinstall them. You have to get the proper nut that has no chamfer on the starter thread. You will notice the proper nut is quite flat on the side that starts onto your stud. You do not need to alter the wheel nuts, nor should you, to make that work. This is what you need, but make sure you get the right ones for your studs. Lazydays has people at a phone desk for questions..https://accessories.lazydays.com/dicor-v195p7ejn-enclosed-jam-nut-17-0020

[photobug]

Why didn't the tire shop put the wheel covers back on? Did the covers get bent taking them off?
Take it back and have them finish the job you paid them to do.

They tried, said nuts were stripped. Shop I used normally does my regular cars, tires are the same as I had on my van which I've been pretty happy with. Not sure I can blame them for the covers not fitting on correctly unless some of the nuts are thinner or something. Took it to les schwab, they couldn't/wouldn't do anything either. Ford truck place as unhelpful as well. Might have the rv place look at it when I take the unit in to have them look at the generator. (mechanic there is a real grump though)

[Tyler0215]

Why didn't the tire shop put the wheel covers back on? Did the covers get bent taking them off?
Take it back and have them finish the job you paid them to do.

[path1]

Only options I see are longer studs

Correct.

Be sure to take a lug nut with you. Because I think Ford had 3 thread "pitches" or threads count per inch around time frame of your RV in your sig line.

In your pic... notice torque poundage stamped into the end of nut? Talk about "fine print".

(just measured mine) On my Harbor Freight digital caliper...measured from wheel rim to end of lug nut is 1.82 inch.

Of course length might depend on what brand of simulator you have?

(Spacer behind nut is OEM disapates psi?)