Sep-26-2016 10:53 AM
Mar-18-2017 07:11 AM
Bruce Brown wrote:
But the fact of the matter is if the sealant goes bad and wind enters , it has been proven in some cases to peel the roof off, as was the original issue in this thread and confirmed again with the pictures Mike posted.
If as an RV buyer you're OK with this design then great - it's your money. I would not be OK with this design, and I can't think too many people who know about this PRIOR to buying one would look at that and say "Yes, that's a great design and what I want on my next MH". Unfortunately too many consumers are unaware.
Mar-17-2017 04:12 PM
Mile High wrote:Bruce Brown wrote:As is the case with many, many RV roofs - I'm not sure why this is such a big deal with some. If you inspect it and keep it in good shape it is a great roof, and leaps and bounds over rubber which is standard on a lot of MHs - but some folks never let us poor Winnie owners forget that you Newmar Gods are headed for a higher heaven than the rest of us are headed. I'm pretty sure your sewer hoses don't smell either.
But the fact of the matter is if the sealant goes bad and wind enters , it has been proven in some cases to peel the roof off, as was the original issue in this thread and confirmed again with the pictures Mike posted.
Mar-17-2017 03:17 PM
Bruce Brown wrote:As is the case with many, many RV roofs - I'm not sure why this is such a big deal with some. If you inspect it and keep it in good shape it is a great roof, and leaps and bounds over rubber which is standard on a lot of MHs - but some folks never let us poor Winnie owners forget that you Newmar Gods are headed for a higher heaven than the rest of us are headed. I'm pretty sure your sewer hoses don't smell either.
But the fact of the matter is if the sealant goes bad and wind enters , it has been proven in some cases to peel the roof off, as was the original issue in this thread and confirmed again with the pictures Mike posted.
Mar-17-2017 03:13 PM
Mar-17-2017 03:02 PM
Mar-17-2017 02:49 PM
Gjac wrote:Mile High wrote:Fasteners are used all the time on fiber glass parts. My F/G roof on my Class B van was was secured with screws just like my current rubber roof is now, without tearing the FG. This tread is not about which is better a FG roof or rubber/TPO roof it is about Winnebago roofs coming loose and and what a owner can do to fix it. My intent is not to argue with you about this roof design.Gjac wrote:Well we aren't talking airplanes here - so lets not try to use fasteners for something never intended to be fastened that way. Using rivets on this edge is the first step in tearing the fiberglass, and that would be an expensive repair. There isn't enough edge. The best option is to maintain the existing design and don't ignore it. Last I checked, thats how those aircraft mechanics find those cracks and tears in their own riveted systems.
I think what some are missing in this thread is even though there are no structural loads going through that lap joint there is probably 1-2 psi air loads at 60 mph. That does not seem like a lot until you look at the surface of the roof which is a huge area. Adhesives are strong in tension compression and shear but very weak in peel. Once an edge begins to peel your see what Mike posted above. I don't know the caulking/adhesive that Winnebago recommends but even with good structural adhesives "chicken fasteners" (rivets) are used to eliminate the peel forces in composite airframes. Once an owner fully understands this issue things like extra eternabond or a compression strip with screws can be added or just check it every 6 mos and recaulk. I would feel safer with the first two options.
This all really just a regurgitation of what is already discussed in the beginning of this thread.
Mar-17-2017 10:31 AM
Mile High wrote:Fasteners are used all the time on fiber glass parts. My F/G roof on my Class B van was was secured with screws just like my current rubber roof is now, without tearing the FG. This tread is not about which is better a FG roof or rubber/TPO roof it is about Winnebago roofs coming loose and and what a owner can do to fix it. My intent is not to argue with you about this roof design.Gjac wrote:Well we aren't talking airplanes here - so lets not try to use fasteners for something never intended to be fastened that way. Using rivets on this edge is the first step in tearing the fiberglass, and that would be an expensive repair. There isn't enough edge. The best option is to maintain the existing design and don't ignore it. Last I checked, thats how those aircraft mechanics find those cracks and tears in their own riveted systems.
I think what some are missing in this thread is even though there are no structural loads going through that lap joint there is probably 1-2 psi air loads at 60 mph. That does not seem like a lot until you look at the surface of the roof which is a huge area. Adhesives are strong in tension compression and shear but very weak in peel. Once an edge begins to peel your see what Mike posted above. I don't know the caulking/adhesive that Winnebago recommends but even with good structural adhesives "chicken fasteners" (rivets) are used to eliminate the peel forces in composite airframes. Once an owner fully understands this issue things like extra eternabond or a compression strip with screws can be added or just check it every 6 mos and recaulk. I would feel safer with the first two options.
This all really just a regurgitation of what is already discussed in the beginning of this thread.
Mar-17-2017 09:46 AM
mike brez wrote:'Mile High wrote:mike brez wrote:Ya, it's almost as bad as a rubber roof design.
IMHO it is a sh!t design.
Yep had one of those never again.
Mar-17-2017 08:46 AM
Mile High wrote:mike brez wrote:Ya, it's almost as bad as a rubber roof design.
IMHO it is a sh!t design.
Mar-17-2017 07:52 AM
mike brez wrote:Ya, it's almost as bad as a rubber roof design.
IMHO it is a sh!t design.
Mar-17-2017 07:06 AM
Mar-17-2017 06:36 AM
Gjac wrote:Well we aren't talking airplanes here - so lets not try to use fasteners for something never intended to be fastened that way. Using rivets on this edge is the first step in tearing the fiberglass, and that would be an expensive repair. There isn't enough edge. The best option is to maintain the existing design and don't ignore it. Last I checked, thats how those aircraft mechanics find those cracks and tears in their own riveted systems.
I think what some are missing in this thread is even though there are no structural loads going through that lap joint there is probably 1-2 psi air loads at 60 mph. That does not seem like a lot until you look at the surface of the roof which is a huge area. Adhesives are strong in tension compression and shear but very weak in peel. Once an edge begins to peel your see what Mike posted above. I don't know the caulking/adhesive that Winnebago recommends but even with good structural adhesives "chicken fasteners" (rivets) are used to eliminate the peel forces in composite airframes. Once an owner fully understands this issue things like extra eternabond or a compression strip with screws can be added or just check it every 6 mos and recaulk. I would feel safer with the first two options.
Mar-16-2017 10:03 PM
Mar-16-2017 07:44 PM
Mar-16-2017 06:19 PM