Winterization

[jfkbunkie]

This is our first year storing a Class A for the winter. Previously, with towables (and inexpensive used ones, at that), I just protected the plumbing and not much else. Now, with a brand new Class A, I'd like to be more thorough. We're storing outdoors in the cold and snowy midwest, so I bought a cover. Looking for opinions from others on:

1. Relieving weight from tires
2. Periodically exercising the drivetrain
3. House battery disconnection vs. maintenance charging
4. Deterring rodent entry

[tsjoshua]

I keep my house and drive batteries charged while in storage using a small solar panel for each. They have always kept their charge and have never frozen.

[doxiemom11]

We stored our motorhome the 1st winter in MI - outdoors, uncovered. We did not put the jacks down as we were parked on grass. Slides were in. We scattered Bounce fabric fastener sheets throughout, in drawers,behind sofa, etc. We did not have any mice and were parked by a field in the country.
We left the house and engine batteries in, shut of the battery switches. When spring came, we turned engine battery on and it started right up. One thing we would do differently ---- we would remove the batteries , both house and engine and store them indoors ( our house battery did freeze). We also put Stabil in the fuel systems and ran the generator to get it thru that fuel system before storing. We did not run the engine or the generator during the time it was stored. We started full-timing after that, so never stored it again.

[DrewE]

Bill.Satellite wrote:
In any engine! If you do not bring ALL of the fluids up to operating temps you are doing more harm than good.

From what I've read, the generally accepted consensus of studies that have been done show that a surprisingly large portion of engine wear occurs in the first several minutes after a cold start. I've read such claims as the majority in the first ten minutes of operation, but of course that's highly dependent on the total span of operation for each start; if you run an engine for only ten minutes each time, as an extreme example, then clearly all the wear must occur within the first ten minutes. On the other hand, if it is never or practically never shut down, say at a power plant or something, then the opposite would pretty much be true.

[Bill_Satellite]

In any engine! If you do not bring ALL of the fluids up to operating temps you are doing more harm than good.

[AllegroD]

Bill.Satellite wrote:

AllegroD wrote:
What make/model?

I have a gasser. Parked at house and plugged into 30 amp.

1. Run engine for 1 hour a month.
2. Run generator for 1 hour a month, with load
3. Level. Takes load off sidewalls.
4. Slideouts in. No need for snow and ice load on slide covers.

- RR fridge is on so we can use it as second when we have guests over.
- plastic pads under tires to keep off concrete.

Please don't read this an accept that this is a good thing. Running an RV engine without driving is very bad!

Why is that, in a gasser?

[Bill_Satellite]

AllegroD wrote:
What make/model?

I have a gasser. Parked at house and plugged into 30 amp.

1. Run engine for 1 hour a month.
2. Run generator for 1 hour a month, with load
3. Level. Takes load off sidewalls.
4. Slideouts in. No need for snow and ice load on slide covers.

- RR fridge is on so we can use it as second when we have guests over.
- plastic pads under tires to keep off concrete.

Please don't read this an accept that this is a good thing. Running an RV engine without driving is very bad!

[wa8yxm]

For the first few winters I stayed in Detroit. First year I pinked all the plumbing. NEVER AGAIN. 2nd I blew the lines out with compressed air. Pulled the slides in Put the jacks down and plugged in... Oh I visited nearly every day as .. it's my ham shack.. but that's just one room of the RV.. Ran the Generator monthly under load (I have heavy duty circuits for space heaters x2 and that's what loaded the genny... Except for the months where Edison let me down and I used it to power the house).

[AllegroD]

What make/model?

I have a gasser. Parked at house and plugged into 30 amp.

1. Run engine for 1 hour a month.
2. Run generator for 1 hour a month, with load
3. Level. Takes load off sidewalls.
4. Slideouts in. No need for snow and ice load on slide covers.

- RR fridge is on so we can use it as second when we have guests over.
- plastic pads under tires to keep off concrete.

[Bill_Satellite]

Personally, I would make sure they are fully charged and then remove them. It will take less time than you will spend returning to the RV every couple of weeks to run the generator and it will make your life pretty easy. They don't need to be put on a charger at home, just keep them in a space where they won't freeze. Reverse the process in the Spring and you are ready to travel.

[jfkbunkie]

Thanks for the additional replies. I have my RV uncovered now based on advice given. No power outlets readily available, so I need to determine a solution for the house batteries. Even with the disconnect, I know they won’t last through the winter. Any thoughts regarding complete removal vs. running the generator to keep them charged?

[Bill_Satellite]

If the RV is going to be parked for the Winter you do not need (do not want!) to start the engine UNLESS you are also planning to take it for a long drive. You must get all fluids up to operating temperatures and that cannot be done without a drive.
You do not need to run the generator either if it will be sitting for the same extended period of time. If you plan to use it at all then you will need to run it under load for at least 1/2 hour.
If the coach will not be plugged in to allow the batteries to be maintained then you should use the 12V shut off, take pictures, mark and draw diagrams of all battery connections and then remove and store them. Assuming they were fully charged when you removed them you do not need to keep them on a charger but just keep them out of freezing temps until you are ready to reinstall.
Personally, I don't think you need to cover the coach. Unless the cover is absolutely secure (unlikely) when the wind blows the cover will move. Everwhere the cover moves and touches the coach body you will have unnecessary wear. A good cleaning and waxing before storing will have it ready for a good cleaning in the Spring with no damage.
Rodents? I've got nothing other than try to ensure that every exterior opening is sealed.

[RodLyle]

I have owned 4 different Class A over a 33 yr period.

Have done this every month in that time.

1. Take out on road for 50 mile round trip.
2. Run generator for 45-50 mins with load
3. Level
4. Extend slideouts
5. I use a battery tender on marine batteries

NOTE: I try to extend and level on a decent day temp wise.

[way2roll]

jfkbunkie wrote:
Thanks for the replies. Are all in agreement that covering is not necessary in the wintertime?

Also, has anyone had experience with spraying the ground with ammonia around the perimeter to keep mice away?

I think covering is based on preference but a couple things to consider - aside from is being a huge pain to take on and off in the summer let alone winter;
If you plan to travel at all in the winter, snow and ice are a royal PITA to deal with and the cover is on. Also, covers can rub the paint and the buckles can scratch.

I had a cover once, used it for about a month before a few things happened. I got tired of putting it on and removing it, if there was snow or ice it can bond to the RV making it tough and dangerous and possibly damaging to try and remove it, the buckles scratched and in decent wind the cover started to tear. Add to the difficult task of storing it while not in use and if it's wet then what?

All in all the cover simply had far more issues than benefit - if any. Winter exacerbated the issues.

[jfkbunkie]

Thanks for the replies. Are all in agreement that covering is not necessary in the wintertime?

Also, has anyone had experience with spraying the ground with ammonia around the perimeter to keep mice away?