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2015 RAM Integrated Brake Controller.

sritter
Explorer
Explorer
I have read on various forums that the integrated brake controller on the 2015 RAM trucks only provides 70% max voltage to the trailer brakes and that is not enough for 12" brakes. I am not sure if this is just the opinion of those who are used to the way a Prodigy (or other third party controller) behaves vs how the integrated behaves though.

I have a Cougar 336BHS on order which has 12" brakes. The dealer is 200 miles away so I am trying to sort this out before having a bad first trip home. I guess my first question is whether or not those with a 2015 RAM and a trailer with 12" brakes have experienced this issue.

I have the integrated brake controller but have not installed it. Previously I had a 2012 1500 and that integrated brake controller worked great, but that was with a 5000 lb travel trailer.

Should I just say forget it and buy a different controller? Prodigy P3 or other? I had a P2 in a 2006 RAM and it was not as smooth as the integrated controller, although could easily lock the wheels if set too high.
2014 RAM 2500 6.7 Diesel
2017 Keystone Cougar 359MBI
24 REPLIES 24

jdrver
Explorer
Explorer
We picked up our new Coachman Chaparral Fifth Wheel on Saturday. Camper is 35' long and weighs 9249 empty. I set it up as the fourth trailer I have loaded in my integrated factory controller list. Set it to heavy electric and gain at 6.5. I test pulled in lot and brakes would stop truck and trailer at 10mph roll with slide bar no truck brakes applied. In route home I backed gain down to 6.0 as I felt trailer brakes were heavy in comparison to truck brakes. I always run my trailer brakes slightly more than tuck just so I feel them apply. This all being said my integrated controller is working fine and I still feel that this system works better than my prodigy I have used for years with my other trailers at home in my other truck. I really like setting up each trailer to its own setting and not having to fiddle with the controller everytime I hook something else up. Just select the trailer I am towing and go.

Searching_Ut
Explorer
Explorer
For those thinking the IBS is tied to the trucks anti-skid, there isn't really anything the engineers could do to effectively tie the anti skid brakes of the truck into the trailer braking system as there is no feedback system available to enable the system to know what the trailer brakes are doing.

This weekend, I got the opportunity to tow a different fifth wheel with different brakes than the ones on my fifth wheel. The tow was from the Watford North Dakota area to Rawlins Wyoming through a variety of conditions ranging from dry, to freezing rain/glare ice to packed snow floor and a little over 6 inches of fresh snow on the road. As conditions change I normally adjust my brake controller appropriately. With my 2015 3500 even on ice I never adjusted the gain less than 6.5 at which point the truck brakes were taking slightly more of the braking duties than the trailer was. Unfortunately, even on a steep decent no matter how you set the controller you couldn't stop the combination of truck and trailer with just the trailer brakes, which in my opinion is an unsafe condition. With the same trailer you can do this easily in with other vehicles IBC.

Finally, the issue isn't whether or not you can lock the trailer brakes, it's whether or not you have the ability to adjust them to work at just less than the lock point in a variety of conditions with an assortment of trailers all of which will probably have different voltage requirements to work their best.
2015 Ram 3500 Laramie CTD, 4X4, AISIN, B&W Companion Puck Mount
2016 Heartland Bighorn 3270RS, 1kw solar with Trimetric and dual SC2030, 600 watt and 2k inverters.

billyray50
Explorer
Explorer
PackerBacker wrote:
I tow 32.5' that is usually around 8,500lbs With a 2014 Ram 1500. the integrated brake controller works much more effectively than the Prodigy that I used with my Ram 2500 that pulled a 30'5th wheel at around the same weight.

I set the integrated controller at level 4 and I can just about lock the trailer wheels using the manual activation at around 15 mph; beyond level 4 they actually lock up. When at normal driving speeds I easily feel the trailer brakes engage when I touch the truck brake pedal which is what I have always considered as normal.


I noticed a big difference with my 2015 Ram 3500 CTD hauling a 34' TT at little over 9000 lbs. than my after market curt in my previous 2006 Ram CTD. set at 4 too. Much better. Of course I use exhaust brake too. Luv that Exhaust Brake!

drittal
Explorer
Explorer
Ive been trying to reply to this but having troubles...

I have a 2015 2500 and CANNOT slide brakes on my trailer with 6k dexter axles when trying to set gain as instructed in the manual.

Measured Voltage with my multimeter is about 8-9 depending on Heavy or Light electric with Heavy having LESS output.

If BossHogg hasn't already commented, he had a RAM engineer explain that the ITBM is programed to only put out 70% duty cycle under 30mph. Scary if you have big brakes that require 10.5v to fully apply.

My fathers 2012 3500 only need 4-4.5 gain with my trailer, I set mine at 7-7.5 gain. Same trailer, same load, same truck make.

4X4Dodger
Explorer II
Explorer II
BenK wrote:
4X4Dodger wrote:
snip....


In a panic stop situation, and I mean by that a TRUE panic stop situation, which should be EXTREMELY rare, you should reach down and hit those trailer brakes before you step on the truck brakes.

I know this takes concentration, but it is what every big rig driver knows to do to keep that trailer straight. Those who don't do this often end up jack-knifed or worse.

My 2014 Ram 2500 has the same brake controller as the '15 and I feel it works as it should.


I do NOT have to do that, as with my P3 and TV brake pedal switch...it
does that for me when I just touch the TV brake pedal...the brake light
switch sets before the MC rod is moved

Once the P3 tells the trailer brakes to turn on with the preset boost
level...the accelerometer takes over and will continue to tell the
trailer to brake

Then when my foot moves further down to then touch the TV MC Piston
to then develop MC PSI (this is when these MC PSI sensed, highly integrated
brake controls will 'START' to tell the trailer brakes to turn on)...the
TV will then join in braking...which will then tell the accelerometer
that there is even more deceleration...to then have the P3 send more
if it hasn't topped out at 12VDC


As for 'highly integrated'...EVERYTHING on/in the TV's computer systems
are tied in...and...too many times by software coders (not necessarily
an engineer) who know little to nothing about towing

These are the sub-systems that I can think of that are tied to the
computing system(s) of any of today's TV's...heck vehicles..as a buddy
just bought a Mercedes and had to take classes to learn HOW2 deal
with the +100 computers of her C class

  • ABS
  • Traction Control
  • Torque Control
  • Tow-Haul
  • Sway Control
  • Power Mode
  • Shift Points


Can even ask if the AWD/4x4/etc are tied into this...betcha a Costco Dog
that it is...


Tractor trailers have had computer controlled anti lock braking systems for years including most trailers.

But in an extreme situation I will always pull those trailer brakes first. Period. While the new systems have REDUCED the tendency for trailers to jacknife or worse it has definitely NOT eliminated it by any means. Getting on the trailer brakes first is always going to be your SAFEST option.

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Oh...read of it years ago, but confirmed by buddy after her second class on HOW2
manage her sedan...

Scared the daylights out of her...her seat belts has the explosive pre-tensioners
that are set off at the same time the air bag is set off

Both employ explosives and now she thinks there is a bomb on her seat belt. Told
her to ask the instructor and she did...but the guy only knew what was in his
instructors book...just that Mercedes uses small explosives in their seat belt
pre-tensioner system

For those who don't know what the seat belt pre-tensioner system is...
Seat belts work best when really snug and folks normally don't tighten
them enough.

So the OEMs has these systems to tighten them even more during an accident
and are tied in with the steering wheel air bag safety system computers

Now back to this thread...wonder how the IBC is tied into the computer system's
emergency/accident software algorithms...steering wheel air bag, side curtain
air bags...does the rear seats have air bags now?
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
4X4Dodger wrote:
snip....


In a panic stop situation, and I mean by that a TRUE panic stop situation, which should be EXTREMELY rare, you should reach down and hit those trailer brakes before you step on the truck brakes.

I know this takes concentration, but it is what every big rig driver knows to do to keep that trailer straight. Those who don't do this often end up jack-knifed or worse.

My 2014 Ram 2500 has the same brake controller as the '15 and I feel it works as it should.


I do NOT have to do that, as with my P3 and TV brake pedal switch...it
does that for me when I just touch the TV brake pedal...the brake light
switch sets before the MC rod is moved

Once the P3 tells the trailer brakes to turn on with the preset boost
level...the accelerometer takes over and will continue to tell the
trailer to brake

Then when my foot moves further down to then touch the TV MC Piston
to then develop MC PSI (this is when these MC PSI sensed, highly integrated
brake controls will 'START' to tell the trailer brakes to turn on)...the
TV will then join in braking...which will then tell the accelerometer
that there is even more deceleration...to then have the P3 send more
if it hasn't topped out at 12VDC


As for 'highly integrated'...EVERYTHING on/in the TV's computer systems
are tied in...and...too many times by software coders (not necessarily
an engineer) who know little to nothing about towing

These are the sub-systems that I can think of that are tied to the
computing system(s) of any of today's TV's...heck vehicles..as a buddy
just bought a Mercedes and had to take classes to learn HOW2 deal
with the +100 computers of her C class

  • ABS
  • Traction Control
  • Torque Control
  • Tow-Haul
  • Sway Control
  • Power Mode
  • Shift Points


Can even ask if the AWD/4x4/etc are tied into this...betcha a Costco Dog
that it is...
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

4X4Dodger
Explorer II
Explorer II
Chuck_thehammer wrote:
my understanding.. the Big 3... the factory trailer brake controller is tied into the trucks anti-lock brakes.. so locking the trailer brakes do not happen.

except under very hard braking and under maximum traction. and NOT manually.

but no system is perfect .. and a few combinations may not work so well


I think you have this right. In any case you DO NOT want your trailer brakes to lock up. That is dangerous.

In a panic stop situation, and I mean by that a TRUE panic stop situation, which should be EXTREMELY rare, you should reach down and hit those trailer brakes before you step on the truck brakes.

I know this takes concentration, but it is what every big rig driver knows to do to keep that trailer straight. Those who don't do this often end up jack-knifed or worse.

My 2014 Ram 2500 has the same brake controller as the '15 and I feel it works as it should.

jdrver
Explorer
Explorer
I tow three different trailers with my 2015 Ram 2500 Diesel truck and have had no issues with using the integrated controler. It is by far the best unit I have used. I like how I can store up to four trailers in the unit and set the braking level for each one at three different levels and it stays set that way. It works as proportionate with the ABS system. When I am pulling 12,000 gooseneck trailer with tow haul activated and exhaust brake on I can tell you I can stop quicker than any truck I have ever owned. When you are towing do you have the tow haul turned on and the exhaust brake activated? Mine will act different towing if I leave one turned off.

sritter
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks everyone, I decided to sell the integrated kit and get a P3.
2014 RAM 2500 6.7 Diesel
2017 Keystone Cougar 359MBI

Searching_Ut
Explorer
Explorer
PackerBacker wrote:
I tow 32.5' that is usually around 8,500lbs With a 2014 Ram 1500. the integrated brake controller works much more effectively than the Prodigy that I used with my Ram 2500 that pulled a 30'5th wheel at around the same weight.

I set the integrated controller at level 4 and I can just about lock the trailer wheels using the manual activation at around 15 mph; beyond level 4 they actually lock up. When at normal driving speeds I easily feel the trailer brakes engage when I touch the truck brake pedal which is what I have always considered as normal.


I think the problem primarily involves the changes Chrysler made for the 2015 and later IBCs. I had a 2012 Timber Ridge TT with 5k Alco axles that would lock up at a setting of 4 or 5 with my 2011 Ram 2500CTD. The new 2015 truck brake controller wouldn't lock them with any setting.

I'm not sure I'm buying the Chrysler argument about under 30mph. From the limited testing I did the controller currently limits to a duty cycle of approximately 65 percent not moving. That equates to a current flow of approximately half of what I'd get with a full 12vdc applied rather than 65 percent. The difference however could be in how the clamp on ammeter computes current with the pulse width modulated signal.

That said, I built myself a harness so I can hook my scope up and measure outputs while actually towing the trailer at various speeds. I'll set it up so my dash cam records what's going on so it's distraction free for me. My next planned trip with my rig is the end of Feb though so it will be a bit before I play with it.

I've owned quite a few different trailers over the years, towing in a lot of different conditions and all of them had brakes that were quite different from one another in how they needed the brake controller to be set for the different driving conditions. To have Dodge decide on a one size fits all setup that won't let you do any real adjustment for different rigs or conditions really pisses me off, especially since it seems they could hurt someone. It may work for you depending on whether or not your brakes need a full 12 volts to work. If it doesn't work for your rig, you have to add an aftermarket unit to get full braking power rather than making a simple adjust like we've been able to do with even the cheapest brake controllers for years.
2015 Ram 3500 Laramie CTD, 4X4, AISIN, B&W Companion Puck Mount
2016 Heartland Bighorn 3270RS, 1kw solar with Trimetric and dual SC2030, 600 watt and 2k inverters.

Community Alumni
Not applicable
I tow 32.5' that is usually around 8,500lbs With a 2014 Ram 1500. the integrated brake controller works much more effectively than the Prodigy that I used with my Ram 2500 that pulled a 30'5th wheel at around the same weight.

I set the integrated controller at level 4 and I can just about lock the trailer wheels using the manual activation at around 15 mph; beyond level 4 they actually lock up. When at normal driving speeds I easily feel the trailer brakes engage when I touch the truck brake pedal which is what I have always considered as normal.

Searching_Ut
Explorer
Explorer
As mentioned, with my controller the gain control does only a very slight adjustment. At any speed or setting only minimal breaking from 15k trailer. With heavy brakes set gain at 8 I had a car run light atopping right in my lane, with my soeed being approx 45mph. I should have been able to stop in time but only had marginal braking. Luckily I could and did change lanes but fast swerves are't fun when towing.
2015 Ram 3500 Laramie CTD, 4X4, AISIN, B&W Companion Puck Mount
2016 Heartland Bighorn 3270RS, 1kw solar with Trimetric and dual SC2030, 600 watt and 2k inverters.

goducks10
Explorer
Explorer
CampingN.C. wrote:
I'm only towing around 9K but haven't noticed any of the issues that are being referred to. :h
Is the main issue not being able to lock the brakes with the slider?


That's part of my issue. I've always believed the proper way to set the TBC is to drive 20-25mph apply TBC manually and if the brakes lock reduce gain. And vice versa. How do you set the TBC is you can't do it manually? With the OEM TBC there's not much different between 1 and 10 on the gain scale. I only tow 9000lbs also.