Black tank problem

[dennislanier]

Currently at a campground in North Georgia mountains. This morning as I tried to empty the black tank I pulled the handle but the tank did not drain. I have come to the sad conclusion the the handle has pulled loose from the valve and therefore the valve is stuck in the closed position. My obvious question is can the tank be drained manually so I can replace the bad valve. Keep in my that I am in the campground. I just want to have some way to drain the tank now or else I will have to pack up and leave. It shows about 2/3 full now. I realize I can use the campground facilities but my main concern is draining the tank.

[allen8106]

I had the exact same thing happen to me a few weeks ago in a West Yellowstone RV park. I managed to stick the rod back in the hole, find the threaded end of the valve and screwed it back into the valve. I was amazed that I could stick that rod back in the hole and find the threaded end on the valve but I did and it's stayed in place since then.

[dennislanier]

bpounds wrote:
Sounds like this guy had a similar issue: Clickable Link

Thanks for this link. Looks like my problem exactly, and how to fix it as well. Guess I will get to try it out soon. If so I will follow up so it might help another poor soul.

[jkbrea]

I think I may replace mine "just in case" while its empty. Trailer is 10 years old and I sure don't want to deal with that.

[bpounds]

Wanted to add, if you can find a direct replacement valve, buy it or better yet, buy two. Bring it home and take it apart. Then you will understand exactly how it is sealed internally, and where you can cut to minimize unwanted leakage. I think we can agree that leakage, would be unwanted, yes? 🙂

[bpounds]

Sounds like this guy had a similar issue: Clickable Link

[braindead0]

Call a local portable toilet company and see if they can do a pump out from your toilet... at least get the bulk the the tank emptied before trying to open things up.

[dave17352]

I would just quit using it and take care of it when you get home. No problem driving with a 2/3 full black tank. I know I shouldn't say this but pee in the shower drain if its in middle of the night and save number two for the facilities. 🙂

[MudChucker]

would you mind posting some photos...

having fixed many, Im sure there is an option for you to get the gate opened and at least dump the bulk of the load...

more often than not, this is a messy job...

[dennislanier]

DrewE wrote:
If you have access to the other side of the valve from the handle, maybe you can drill a smallish hole opposite the rod and push the gate from behind with a dowel or another metal rod or similar.

While I haven't heard of it being done, it seems to me that one ought to be able to pump out (most of) the contents of the black tank by putting a hose down the toilet, similar to how septic tanks are pumped out. If you were really brave and/or foolhardy, a shop vac would probably do that trick...but I wouldn't want to do so with my shop vac! Having an intermediate container to collect the sewage might be practical (maybe a 5 gallon bucket with a lid, with the hoses connected to the lid). It would not be pleasant work, of course, but beats the alternative.

. Now if you will just lend me your shop vac I will return it and you can use the contents to fertilize your garden!!!!

[fla-gypsy]

This will not end well, be prepared before you start tearing the valve apart. The bright side is they are easy to replace once you dispose of the tank contents

[Strabo]

Face it....One way or another you will wear it, happened to me. 😞

[DrewE]

If you have access to the other side of the valve from the handle, maybe you can drill a smallish hole opposite the rod and push the gate from behind with a dowel or another metal rod or similar.

While I haven't heard of it being done, it seems to me that one ought to be able to pump out (most of) the contents of the black tank by putting a hose down the toilet, similar to how septic tanks are pumped out. If you were really brave and/or foolhardy, a shop vac would probably do that trick...but I wouldn't want to do so with my shop vac! Having an intermediate container to collect the sewage might be practical (maybe a 5 gallon bucket with a lid, with the hoses connected to the lid). It would not be pleasant work, of course, but beats the alternative.

[dennislanier]

garyemunson wrote:
I feel for you. This can be a really nasty repair. The glue idea has merit but I would suggest a strong epoxy like JB weld. The slide valves are not expensive but if you cannot get it to open, you will have a tank full of sewage going everywhere when the valve is taken off. My suggestion is to cut away the part of the valve that the shutter blade retracts into when the valve is open. This MAY allow you to get ahold of it and open the shutter just enough to drain the liquid from the tank. You'll get some leakage but it will be a WHOLE LOT better than having to deal with 50 gallons of sewage. If there is an RV dump that you can get the valve (and motorhome) parked directly over, it's a little more practical to just remove the valve (putting up some splash guards and wear protective gloves,gear). Keep in mind if you can just partially open the broken valve, you can get the liquid drained out and with luck the solids will stay in place long enough to install a new valve assembly after which you can fill the tank back up with water to flush it properly. The learning moment here is "it had previously been hard to open". The first time you notice that with a sewer valve, CHANGE IT OUT!

. I think this will be my first option when I get it home. I can use a dremel to cut into the housing to see if I can then grab the blade valve with vise grips etc. I just hate to drive thru the mountains with 200-300 pounds of "poopy" water but looks like I don't have much choice. Thanks for the suggestions.

[J_R2]

If you can get back to the valve itself, shove a plastic anchor in it and you thread your rod and handle into it.