cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Blue Ox Sway Pro Installation

nwbearcat1998
Explorer
Explorer
Hi,

I am looking into purchasing the Blue Ox Sway Pro (model BXW1000) for my TT. The tow vehicle is a 2013 F-150 EcoBoost with the max tow package and trailer is a 2004 Keystone Cougar 29RLS, weighing ~6500 with a tongue weight of ~900 lbs.

Has anyone installed the Blue Ox Sway Pro themselves?
How about some stories on how it went please?

One question I have is in the instructions (HERE) it indicates on steps 10 through 12 to ensure that the towing vehicle is level.

Does this mean the wheel well to ground measurements matches what they did before hookup of the TT??

Thanks in advance for any other tips/tricks on installing the Blue Ox Sway Pro system from prior experiences.
16 REPLIES 16

carringb
Explorer
Explorer
I paid $600 for mine from the dealer, which is the same price as eTrailer. They charged me $90 for install. It actually took a few tries to get the hitch height right, due to the length and weight of the trailer.
2000 Ford E450 V10 VAN! 450,000+ miles
2014 ORV really big trailer
2015 Ford Focus ST

AlbertaNewbie
Explorer
Explorer
I got my box1500 for $600 in Canada where everything costs about 20% more than 'merica . Install is super easy other than needing a deep socket for the ball nut.
2014 Dutchmen 261bhs - 7200#'s loaded
2012 Ram 1500 SXT Crew Cab w/5.7L HEMI, 4x4 3.55 Gears
250w Conergy 250P 24v solar with tristar 45amp mppt charge controller

the_happiestcam
Explorer
Explorer
jaydub74 wrote:
I'm in the processing of buying a trailer, and for safety reasons I can't pick up without a distribution hitch (fully understand that). The dealer is asking $1000 including install for a Blue Ox. Is that reasonable or are they taking me. Should I just buy it and install it in the parking lot.


I paid 556.25 for mine from Amazon - I wouldn't think an install would be charged more than $100 IMHO. If you are buying a Blue Ox from the dealer that is selling you the trailer, you would think they would install it for free - or heavily discounted.
Me ('62), DW ('61), DS ('97), DS ('99), DD ('03)
2003 Yukon XL 2500 8.1L 4.10 axle
2010 Dutchmen 28G-GS

CG's we've been to
   

badercubed
Explorer
Explorer
I would say yes. What size?
2019 Apex Nano 208BHS
2016 F-150 Crew Cab (it's my wife's ride)

Been camping for 37 of my 38 years!

jaydub74
Explorer
Explorer
I'm in the processing of buying a trailer, and for safety reasons I can't pick up without a distribution hitch (fully understand that). The dealer is asking $1000 including install for a Blue Ox. Is that reasonable or are they taking me. Should I just buy it and install it in the parking lot.
2014 Kodiak 284 BHSL
2010 Ford F350 V10 Crew Cab
Full Timing: 2 Adults, 1 Toddler, 1 Yellow Lab
www.randomgoodness.ca

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
nwbearcat1998 wrote:
One question I have is in the instructions (HERE) it indicates on steps 10 through 12 to ensure that the towing vehicle is level.

Does this mean the wheel well to ground measurements matches what they did before hookup of the TT??
The instruction, "Repeat the above steps until the towing vehicle is level.", is ambiguous.
I'm guessing that they mean the drops at the front and rear of the TV, relative to the unhitched heights, should be approximately equal -- sometimes referred to as the "equal squat" approach.

If that's what Blue Ox means, it's in conflict with what Ford specifies for your 2013 F-150.

The online 2013 Ford F-150 Owners Manual unambiguously specifies:

When hooking-up a trailer using a weight-distributing hitch, always use the following procedure:
1. Park the loaded vehicle, without the trailer, on a level surface.
2. Measure the height to the top of your vehicleโ€™s front wheel opening on the fender. This is H1.
3. Securely attach the loaded trailer to your vehicle without the weight-distributing bars connected.
4. Measure the height to the top of your vehicleโ€™s front wheel opening on the fender a second time. This is H2.
5. Install and adjust the tension in the weight-distributing bars so that the height of your vehicleโ€™s front wheel opening on the fender is approximately half way between H1 and H2.

(bold added for emphasis)


6. Check that the trailer is level or slightly nose down toward your vehicle. If not, adjust the ball height accordingly and repeat Steps 2โ€“6.



I think the reason Ford, Chevrolet, Toyota, Equal-i-zer, Reese and others have changed their weight distribution specifications (no longer recommending the "equal squat" approach) is pretty well summed up in this Letter to Editor by Richard H Klein, P E printed in TRAILER BODY BUILDERS Magazine. The comment which specifically addresses front axle load is:

QUOTE

2. The statement โ€œtoo much tongue weight can force the truck down in the back, causing the front wheels to lift to the point where steering response and braking can be severely decreasedโ€ is not the real issue with heavy tongue weights. The real problem is that the tow vehicle's yaw stability, as measured by โ€œundersteer gradientโ€, is severely decreased. This increases the propensity of the tow vehicle to jackknife in turning maneuvers. Specifically, recent full scale testing conducted by the SAE Tow Vehicle Trailer Rating Committee (and now published in SAE J2807), determined that the use of weight distributing hitch torque should be minimized. In fact they recommend that the Front Axle Load Restoration (FALR) not exceed 100% (100% means that the front axle weight is brought back, via weight distribution, to a weight equal to its โ€œno trailerโ€ condition).


UNQUOTE

A related explanation from a representative of the company which manufactures the Equal-i-zer hitch was first posted here. It says:

QUOTE

In the past we had suggested that you should see a small drop on the front suspension. We are always trying to improve things here at Progress โ€“ our motto is โ€œSafe and Happy Customers,โ€ and so we are always reviewing our instructions and installation process. Recently, as part of this constant effort our engineers looked more deeply into this aspect of installation. We had always felt that a small drop was a sign that the trailerโ€™s weight was being transferred to the front axle, and that this was essentially a good thing.

As our engineers reviewed the instructions for the last round of renewal of our instructions, the found research results that contradicted our prior thinking. There has been a substantial amount of testing conducted by experts from SAE and the RV Industry Association to find out what will produce the best stability when towing. This towing suggests that you want your front axleโ€™s compression to be close to, but not lower than your free-standing height.

(Underline added for emphasis.)
UNQUOTE

Ford says the Front Axle Load Restoration should be approximately 50%.

Chevrolet/GMC says the FALR should be 100%, 50% or 0% depending on TV model and TT weight.

Reese now includes the following in some of their WDH installation instructions:

8. A new term in the industry is (โ€œFALRโ€ โ€“ Front Axle Load Return).
100% FALR Means the front fender is returned to the preload position.
That is our recommendation for best performance.



Equal-i-zer says the Front Axle Load Restoration should be between 50% and 100%.

Equal-i-zer's revised instructions specifically state:

Good adjustment:
You have most likely achieved good weight distribution adjustment if your measurements show the following with the trailer coupled and the weight distribution engaged:
1. From the coupled without weight distribution measurement, the front wheel well measurement is at least halfway back to the original uncoupled measurement. See line C on Front Wheel Well Measure Chart.
2. The rear wheel well measurement is somewhere between the uncoupled height, and the coupled with no weight distribution height. It should NEVER be higher than the uncoupled height. See line C on Rear Wheel Well Measure Chart. See Figure 19.



Ron

handye9
Explorer II
Explorer II
nwbearcat1998 wrote:
Thanks for the response.

Heap64, do you happen to remember how much your rear/front of the truck from the ground to the top of your wheel-wells dropped??


Check your owners manual. For my F250, it says "front bumper should be restored to within 1/2 inch".

On level ground, unhitched, measure center point of front bumper. Hitch up without WD, and measure again. Note front end rise. Then apply WD, and measure a third time. Propper tension on WD bars, should restore front bumper to within 1/2 inch.
18 Nissan Titan XD
12 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Wife and I
Retired Navy Master Chief (retired since 1995)

coolbreeze01
Explorer
Explorer
I've run a Sway Pro for 7 years, pulling two trailers. Blue Ox customer service will answer your questions quickly.

You bought an outstanding hitch.
2008 Ram 3500 With a Really Strong Tractor Motor...........
LB, SRW, 4X4, 6-Speed Auto, 3.73, Prodigy P3, Blue Ox Sway Pro........
2014 Sandsport 26FBSL

nwbearcat1998
Explorer
Explorer
I successfully installed hte Blue Ox Sway Pro BXW1000 hitch last night on my F-150 and couldn't be happier!! The rear end (wheel well to ground) dropped only about 1" and the front end stayed the same. The ride is so much smoother.

I'd really enjoy hearing some specs from the other guys that use the Blue Ox sway Pro on the amount of drop in rear and the number of links you used on the bars. I ended up using 9 links.

Heap64, could you please check the socket size on your breaker bar? I can see that being a HUGE help for latching chains.

Thanks in advance!!!!

jtludwig
Explorer
Explorer
Heap64 wrote:
I installed one on my camper last year in the dealers parking lot in about 30 minutes. They have to be one of the easiest hitches to install as there is no angle to have to mess with on the head when installing.

The main thing is you want your camper level or a little nose down. For sure not nose high while towing.

Take measurements from the ground to the top of your wheel-wells before hooking up to your trailer. Of course your rear will drop some with load. You just don't want your front of your truck to raise up.

You can add more weight distribution by reducing the number of chain links on your latch up to help bring the front down if needed.

I would suggest getting a socket and a nice breaker bar to carry with you to latch up the chains and forget the short tool they give you.

Hopefully I helped some.


Would you mind checking what size socket you use with the rotating latches? I don't really like the short wrench that they provide either!

I'd check myself but my trailer is in storage right now and I'd like to get the correct socket before I head back out to the storage lot.

Thanks!

Robin1953
Explorer
Explorer
I believe that when it says to make sure the vehicle is level means that the drop when the trailer is attached should be about the same all around. When I installed a Reese hitch one time I measured the height from the ground to the rear and front bumpers before and again after. The difference in drop front and rear was less than a quarter of an inch so I called it good and it work as it was supposed to. As someone else stated you just don't want the headlights pointing to the sky.
2015 Grand Design Solitude 320X
2016 Ram 3500 DRW and Cummins

badercubed
Explorer
Explorer
I did not install mine myself, but for reference, I have a similar TV with a larger TT and the Sway Pro works wonderfully. For the price, I was very impressed and you shouldn't be disappointed.
2019 Apex Nano 208BHS
2016 F-150 Crew Cab (it's my wife's ride)

Been camping for 37 of my 38 years!

Heap64
Explorer
Explorer
Not offhand, I have also made a few changes since I first setup. I now have 4 6v golf cart batteries in the front so that added a decent amount of tongue weight.

I have a F250 with Torklift's Stable Loads now, that puts some weight on the overload springs earlier to make it a little more solid in the rear. I have about 1200 pounds of tongue weight and the 1500 pound Blue-Ox bars on mine. I norammly run in the 6 or 7 chain links with this setup. I think I will be hooking up this weekend and can get you some numbers if you want for an idea.

Keep in mind a F-150 and your trailer will be a lot different I would assume.
James & Kim from Central Illinois
2012 Ford F250 XLT CC SB 4x4 6.7, ARE Topper and Decked Draw System
2013 Arctic Fox 25Y (1250lb tongue weight with mods)
Blue Ox Sway Pro 1500 w/Reese Titan Weight Dist Shank

nwbearcat1998
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the response.

Heap64, do you happen to remember how much your rear/front of the truck from the ground to the top of your wheel-wells dropped??