โAug-06-2014 10:58 AM
โAug-26-2014 09:08 PM
โAug-26-2014 08:13 PM
โAug-26-2014 05:25 AM
jaydub74 wrote:
I'm in the processing of buying a trailer, and for safety reasons I can't pick up without a distribution hitch (fully understand that). The dealer is asking $1000 including install for a Blue Ox. Is that reasonable or are they taking me. Should I just buy it and install it in the parking lot.
โAug-26-2014 03:19 AM
โAug-25-2014 09:14 PM
โAug-15-2014 04:14 PM
nwbearcat1998 wrote:The instruction, "Repeat the above steps until the towing vehicle is level.", is ambiguous.
One question I have is in the instructions (HERE) it indicates on steps 10 through 12 to ensure that the towing vehicle is level.
Does this mean the wheel well to ground measurements matches what they did before hookup of the TT??
When hooking-up a trailer using a weight-distributing hitch, always use the following procedure:
1. Park the loaded vehicle, without the trailer, on a level surface.
2. Measure the height to the top of your vehicleโs front wheel opening on the fender. This is H1.
3. Securely attach the loaded trailer to your vehicle without the weight-distributing bars connected.
4. Measure the height to the top of your vehicleโs front wheel opening on the fender a second time. This is H2.
5. Install and adjust the tension in the weight-distributing bars so that the height of your vehicleโs front wheel opening on the fender is approximately half way between H1 and H2.
6. Check that the trailer is level or slightly nose down toward your vehicle. If not, adjust the ball height accordingly and repeat Steps 2โ6.
2. The statement โtoo much tongue weight can force the truck down in the back, causing the front wheels to lift to the point where steering response and braking can be severely decreasedโ is not the real issue with heavy tongue weights. The real problem is that the tow vehicle's yaw stability, as measured by โundersteer gradientโ, is severely decreased. This increases the propensity of the tow vehicle to jackknife in turning maneuvers. Specifically, recent full scale testing conducted by the SAE Tow Vehicle Trailer Rating Committee (and now published in SAE J2807), determined that the use of weight distributing hitch torque should be minimized. In fact they recommend that the Front Axle Load Restoration (FALR) not exceed 100% (100% means that the front axle weight is brought back, via weight distribution, to a weight equal to its โno trailerโ condition).
In the past we had suggested that you should see a small drop on the front suspension. We are always trying to improve things here at Progress โ our motto is โSafe and Happy Customers,โ and so we are always reviewing our instructions and installation process. Recently, as part of this constant effort our engineers looked more deeply into this aspect of installation. We had always felt that a small drop was a sign that the trailerโs weight was being transferred to the front axle, and that this was essentially a good thing.
As our engineers reviewed the instructions for the last round of renewal of our instructions, the found research results that contradicted our prior thinking. There has been a substantial amount of testing conducted by experts from SAE and the RV Industry Association to find out what will produce the best stability when towing. This towing suggests that you want your front axleโs compression to be close to, but not lower than your free-standing height.
8. A new term in the industry is (โFALRโ โ Front Axle Load Return).
100% FALR Means the front fender is returned to the preload position.
That is our recommendation for best performance.
Good adjustment:
You have most likely achieved good weight distribution adjustment if your measurements show the following with the trailer coupled and the weight distribution engaged:
1. From the coupled without weight distribution measurement, the front wheel well measurement is at least halfway back to the original uncoupled measurement. See line C on Front Wheel Well Measure Chart.
2. The rear wheel well measurement is somewhere between the uncoupled height, and the coupled with no weight distribution height. It should NEVER be higher than the uncoupled height. See line C on Rear Wheel Well Measure Chart. See Figure 19.
โAug-15-2014 05:56 AM
nwbearcat1998 wrote:
Thanks for the response.
Heap64, do you happen to remember how much your rear/front of the truck from the ground to the top of your wheel-wells dropped??
โAug-13-2014 05:24 PM
โAug-13-2014 07:39 AM
โAug-07-2014 08:38 AM
Heap64 wrote:
I installed one on my camper last year in the dealers parking lot in about 30 minutes. They have to be one of the easiest hitches to install as there is no angle to have to mess with on the head when installing.
The main thing is you want your camper level or a little nose down. For sure not nose high while towing.
Take measurements from the ground to the top of your wheel-wells before hooking up to your trailer. Of course your rear will drop some with load. You just don't want your front of your truck to raise up.
You can add more weight distribution by reducing the number of chain links on your latch up to help bring the front down if needed.
I would suggest getting a socket and a nice breaker bar to carry with you to latch up the chains and forget the short tool they give you.
Hopefully I helped some.
โAug-07-2014 07:39 AM
โAug-07-2014 06:19 AM
โAug-07-2014 06:04 AM
โAug-06-2014 05:25 PM