Can you 'Wear Out" a hitch receiver?

[Bluestreak]

So, can a hitch receiver "Wear Out?" If so, how do you tell? What do you look for?

I've been towing for 12 years with the same receiver on our '99 E350. All of that time has been with biggish, longish, heavyish trailers. Our latest rig is a 34'9" Rockwood 8329SS, ~8,000 pounds dry with a assumed tongue weight of near 1,000 lbs. The van is rated for 10,000 pounds but requires a lot of weight transfer to move weight to the front axle. Consequently, there has been a LOT of leverage applied to the hitch. I towed with a Hensley for many years and have been using a common WD hitch the last two years only because I sold the Hensley with my last big trailer and could not afford a new one.

All of this is lead in to my question. It seems to me that there is a lot of slop in the hitch bar when it's in the receiver. The hole for the hitch pin is enlarged on either side and the metal has displaced and so the opening is a bit 'swollen" in the box section around the hole.

When is all of this too much? Is it even worth thinking about when a new receiver is ~$250 bucks and an afternoon's work?

Cheers!

[dodge_guy]

Rbertalotto wrote:

When a WD hitch is under tension it will not rattle or bang. A standard hitch will, in fact when I had my 3500lb boat the hitch would bang.

To the OP, I can guarantee you your hitch weight is around 1200 lbs with an 8k lb dry TT! Your trailer probably weighs in at 9500 lbs ready to travel. Even if it weighed 9k lbs it would/should have an 1125lb TW.

[Bluestreak]

Thanks everyone for your responses. I contacted Torklift and they don't offer anything for the big Ford van.
Curt and Drawtight both offer class IV hitch receivers and one, the Draw-tight, appears to weigh significantly more then the Curt. The Draw-tight also uses a gusset top and bottom of the receiver tube, so I'd expect it to have more rigidity from the get-go. Can't tell if the sides of the tube are any thicker, so for belt and suspenders, an additional plate might have to be added as suggested.

I'm thinking a new receiver would be a good thing.

Cheers

[TUCQUALA]

Thanks, Bedlam!! Good to find another source, although as much as an oem!!! Will see how the Curt holds up, and then maybe!!

[Bedlam]

Torklift makes the 20K lb SuperHitch with lifetime warranty for your Excursion. Their part number is F1006:

http://www.torklift.com/index.php/products/towing/superhitch-receiver-hitches/superhitch-original-17...
http://www.torklift.com/tli/portal/docs/548364175.pdf

Search around for the best price - They typically are around $500.

[TUCQUALA]

Yes, you can!!! Maybe more so with a Ford receiver!!

Our Excursion receiver "egged" out, esp at the top of the box. Slight bow across top, and very loose. Did some welding on the hitch stinger, and that only lasted a couple of years and bowed the top even more (stress point!!).

Replaced with a Curt (only one avail other than Ford!!) and so far staying square. The Curt has almost identical ratings to the oem, 12K & 1200 tongue (vs 12K & 1250 tongue). But really would like to have higher rating for tongue weight but no premade receivers (for EX) have higher rating. I may take the oem and have the receiver box redone with a more solid one. May not be worth it?? Only time will tell how the Curt will survive.

[phillyg]

Rbertalotto wrote:

That's a nifty device I didn't know existed; I'd try it along with getting the pin holes welded and re-drilled.

[mkirsch]

If it is bothering you replace it. I know that if my receiver tube were "bell mouthed" and the pin holes were wallowed out, I would be bothered to where I would want to replace it, preferably with something rated for more weight.

That's not as bad as what we found looking under my dad's truck a few years back. The side plates of the receiver were almost completely rusted away! We had just used it to tow a utility trailer a few days before. That got replaced in a hurry.

[Bedlam]

I used to bumper pull a heavy toy hauler and also had the hitch pin hole elongate in my For OEM 12.5K lb receiver. I had a local welding shop weld 3/8" plates on the each side of the receiver and drilled new pin holes. The more slop you have, the more wear you will see on your receiver. I think addressing the sloppy hole will help eliminate your play. My Torklift receivers have the pin hole built up by design.

[Rbertalotto]

[Rbertalotto]

I'm totally convinced that the constant banging of the hitch in the receiver is not good for your nerves and for the hitch. I use an "anti-rattle" device on all my hitches.



https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Roadmaster/RM-061.html




Just be sure to use it to pull the hitch down and not up. If you use it to pull the hitch up, the total tongue weight is supported by the anti rattle device amnd it simply streches over time and the rattles / banging returns.

One of the best things I've purchased for towing trailers!