check my wdh numbers please

[katoom400]

Just getting my new f250 setup with my Outback 250rs, previously I was pulling with a 2010 Tundra and the dealer had setup the hitch. The Ford is quite a bit taller than the Toyota so I had to drop the hitch to the lowest holes in the shank.

Here are my measurements:

Truck only

Front 41 1/2"
Rear 42 3/4"

Truck w/trailer and NO WD

Front 41 5/8" (only went up 1/8")
Rear 41 1/4" (dropped 1.5")

Truck w/trailer and WD

Front 41 1/2" (back to unloaded height
Rear 41 1/2" (1 1/4" sag)

in the following pics you can see it seems to sit pretty level, from the left side the trailer looks slightly nose down, but that could simply be the pavement it's sitting on.








you can see from the right side photo it actually looks a little nose high (both truck and trailer)

I only measure the truck on the left side, but now looking at these pics I should have measured both sides.

I'm not sure if I need to adjust the nuts that position the cam into the detents on the Reese Dual Cam setup since the hitch and the trailer are the same? only the truck changed. I was going to loosen the nuts and do a few figure 8's in the lot and then tighten them back up, but I didn't have a wrench big enough for those nuts (anyone know what size they are?)

Also I'm using 1200lb bars.

Moderator edit to re-size pictures to forum recommended limit of 640px maximum width.

[katoom400]

so my understanding is that it is OK to have the trunion style bars tilted down. you can change the head tilt angle to provide more clearance for the bars/yokes by allowing it have more links from cam to snap up post. (as long as the bars have enough clearance from the ground)

Tilting the head back and adding a link of chain provides more clearance.

Additionaly if you need more weight transfer to the front of the TV, tilting the head back a notch and using the same amount of links would provide that.

[gijoecam]

The angle of the bars to the frame is completely irrelevant IMHO. What matters is how much weight they are transferring, and that there is a minimum number of links under tension to provide adequate swing when the hitch head articulates during a turn.

Not to mention the geometry involved... The bars, by definition, are bent. How can a bent bar be parallel to a straight frame rail? If they appear to be 'sort-of-parallel' to the frame, then that's just a happy coincidence IMO.

[fla-gypsy]

IMO and as an experienced DC user it looks about right. Make your final adjustment to the cam arms and test it on a drive.

[Need-A-Vacation]

Check this extensive thread out on the Reese DC system. A wealth of info inside!

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/16711501.cfm

[Need-A-Vacation]

katoom400 wrote:

In order for the dual cam system to work at its best, the bars need to be more parallel to the frame of the trailer. As yours sits right now, the cams are doing almost nothing..

I've been given some conflicting info concerning trunion style bars, can anyone else please confirm?

That is only for the round bars, needing to be level with the trailer frame. Trunnion bars need the downward tilt so the "lug" (not sure what else to call it, part the bar slides into) does not hit the trailer frame in a sharp turn as I mentioned in my previous post.

There has been extensive posts about the Reese DC system by a few very knowledgable members here. Goes into detail the reasons needed for the head tilt, and what failures can happen if not followed, the head actually being damaged (broken) where the bar pivots.

I will try to find at least one of the threads...

[katoom400]

In order for the dual cam system to work at its best, the bars need to be more parallel to the frame of the trailer. As yours sits right now, the cams are doing almost nothing..

I've been given some conflicting info concerning trunion style bars, can anyone else please confirm?

[gijoecam]

As a place to start, you're probably in the ball park.

That said, forget about how it looks... Scale it, crunch the numbers, and see what is really going on. $11-$12 and you'll know with confidence where you are.

[ScottG]

In order for the dual cam system to work at its best, the bars need to be more parallel to the frame of the trailer. As yours sits right now, the cams are doing almost nothing.
So you need to adjust the tilt of the head and reduce the number of links.
To do this just keep in mind that 1 chain link equals 2 grooves at the head. I would start by tilting the head back 2 grooves and loosing 1 link. The spring pressure will be exactly the same but the bars will be closer to parallel.

[katoom400]

also just updated orignal post with picture of right side.

[katoom400]

thanks guys, I have a close trip coming up in 2 weeks, I'll make sure I leave enough time to stop at the same lot and adjust the dual cams and see if I need a little more head tilt once she's loaded up with people, dog, coolers, kayaks, firewood and bicycles.

thanks for catching my mistake of not retracting the stabilizers all the way.

Anyone know what size wrench is need for the nuts on the dual cam? I only had a large adjustable with me, and it wasn't large enough.

[Need-A-Vacation]

Your trunnions bars should point down like that, so good there. Just make sure the trunnion end won't hit the trailer frame in a very sharp turn. If so or close, add a little more tilt and add a chain link under tension. Can't hurt to reset the dual cam adjustment, even if you did not change the head tilt. But wait until fully loaded up. Round bars should be level with the trailer frame, or pointed down slightly, but not up for reference.

Numbers look pretty good, but if your not fully loaded it may change. Can't see why you would need air bags, but when you get everything loaded up plan on possibly needing to readjust the hitch head angle a little. May need a little more tilt once the bed is loaded up.

Rig looks great!!

Good luck!!!

[downtheroad]

Looks good to me..also your numbers look good...Were these measurements taken when loaded and trip ready?

Just a note...make sure you fully retract those rear stabilizers..in and out of driveways, fuel stations, etc, they could drag.

Nice looking rig.

[katoom400]

thanks, yes that's the way the bars sit, pointed down towards the rear...same way they where on the Tundra as well (as setup by the dealer) at first I was concerned that they should be level, however after some reading it seems that the round style bars usuallly sit level and these typically sit at an angle. someone please correct me if this should be different.

also the only other factor is that I did not have the truck fully loaded like I would when camping... so she may squat more once the bed is loaded up. I was hoping I wouldn't need air bags stepping up to a 3/4 ton truck??

[mleekamp]

My WD bars are usually pretty level with the TT frame. Yours seem to not be, pointing down towards the ground. Either that's the way your bars work or its just the way the pics show it.

Other than the bars, the set up looks good. Overall, it looks about like our setup when towing (yes, i tow with a GMC but I'm talking about the level-ness of the set up)