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E2 vs Equalizer vs Blue Ox

Acdii
Explorer
Explorer
I have a decision to make. I currently have a Husky round bar, with 800# bars and a single sway. My older truck which got wrecked, worked perfectly with this hitch and trailer, but my replacement 2016, it does not. After much troubleshooting, and going through setup time and again, it has been determined that the bars are just too light for this truck.

So instead of getting heavier bars, I am just going to replace the hitch, and narrowed it down to these three.

I have not heard any bad about the E2 setup, and it has been recommended by a few RV dealers when I went price shopping. However, considering its the lowest priced one, is it really as good as the Equalizer?

Since the E2 and Equalizer are similar to each other, but different from the Blue Ox, what makes the BO worth the extra $100-200 for it?

Reading reviews, the Equalizer is loud, the E2 makes noise, but not as loud, and the BO is quiet, but can be a hassle attaching the chains, causing injuries if not careful tightening the bracket.
37 REPLIES 37

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Ah...Sumosprings...

Assume a live axle, right? (solid axle)

If the Sumosprings lift the rear of the truck just a tad...it has unloaded the leaf springs a tad...the leaf bushings need to be pre-loaded in order to NOT have play (compliance) in controlling the rear axle. On that, the leading leaf eye needs to be LOWER than the trailing leaf eye...if not, it will NOT follow the front axle steering input well...

My guess is that there is some movement allowed in the rear axle assembly somewhere...

Before spending tens of thousands of bucks on a different TV...consider adding a PanHard rod/bar to the rear axle. A good suspension shop will know what/how/etc to do. That will solve or address most of any side to side movement of the rear axle assembly
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Acdii
Explorer
Explorer
DanNJanice wrote:
Acdii wrote:
Nope, 2014 F150. Thats what my last truck was and towed the trailer just fine. Really ticking me off that Ford screwed up the suspension so bad in this generation. My 14 got wrecked on an icy road. Had I known how bad the 15+ was, never would have bought new. IT's my daily driver and part time tow rig, so a Superduty just wasn't in the cards, but now wishing I had just done that instead.

It seems unlikely to me that Ford would "break" the F150 for towing. Especially since they increase the towing rating each year. I would suspect that maybe your last 150 had the max tow/max payload package or something. What are the options on you new truck? What does the door sticker payload say? What tires?


Well, here is where it gets interesting.
The last truck, that I towed the same trailer using the same hitch, without any strange behavior was

a 2014 F150 Lariat 501a Screw, SB, EB, RWD with 3.15 gears and NO Tow package! It had a 1470# payload, and I met the specs without going over GVWR or GAWR. It had 20" Bridgestone Duellers running at 44 PSI.

Those actual tires and wheels are now on my 2016 Lariat 502a, Screw, EB, SB, with 1580# payload. Same trailer, same hitch, and even have the same weight distribution per the scales, and it tows terribly.

I have Sumosprings installed which helped tame the rear end when empty, and did help a little, very little, with some bouncing on a rough road, but did nothing for this strange oscillation that feels like I am on a long boat on the ocean riding in the swells between waves.

Since it does it with the same weight in the back, without any trailer, I now know its the truck doing it, and nothing else. I have a huge doubt that even the best WDH setup to perfection wont eliminate this problem.

I have tried several different distribution settings, lightening the front, which induce sway, making the front heavier, which induces sway above 65MPH, and where it is now, it does not sway, and handles exactly like it should with cross winds, and passing vehicles.

The issue is that when on a rough road, like I 80 in Nebraska where the concrete has the expansion cracks and causes the truck to bounce, the front of the truck is moving up and down and doing a figure 8 at times, all while the steering wheel is rock solid and it is tracking perfectly straight. After a bit of doing this, the trailer has had enough and kicks out a bit, then straightens, everything settles down, and then it starts all over again. The kick is the sway bar resetting because I can hear it groan. When on smooth pavement, everything is perfectly normal and I can drive with a finger tip on the wheel.

The load of horse feed I pulled home yesterday was on a rough road, similar to I80, but at only 60 MPH. I could feel the truck doing the same exact thing, but without the kick of the trailer when it has had enough.


I know the Blue Ox will make for much better sway control and I wont have the cocked steering wheel after making a turn, or the noise, but I am extremely doubtful it can correct an issue that is not trailer related. Up until yesterday, I thought it was, but now convinced its that truck.

If it does, GREAT, but highly unlikely, so will be looking for a new truck next year, probably a used 2014, or a SuperDuty, though as a DD, a Superduty is a bit too much.

Forgot to mention I also replaced all 4 shocks with Bilstein 5100's, fronts are at the stock ride height, and I have had an alignment done a few weeks ago to remedy a pull to the right.

atreis
Explorer
Explorer
Perhaps helper springs, airbags, or Timbrens would help ...
2021 Four Winds 26B on Chevy 4500

DanNJanice
Explorer
Explorer
Acdii wrote:
Nope, 2014 F150. Thats what my last truck was and towed the trailer just fine. Really ticking me off that Ford screwed up the suspension so bad in this generation. My 14 got wrecked on an icy road. Had I known how bad the 15+ was, never would have bought new. IT's my daily driver and part time tow rig, so a Superduty just wasn't in the cards, but now wishing I had just done that instead.

It seems unlikely to me that Ford would "break" the F150 for towing. Especially since they increase the towing rating each year. I would suspect that maybe your last 150 had the max tow/max payload package or something. What are the options on you new truck? What does the door sticker payload say? What tires?
2015 Jayco 27RLS
2015 F250 PSD

Acdii
Explorer
Explorer
Nope, 2014 F150. Thats what my last truck was and towed the trailer just fine. Really ticking me off that Ford screwed up the suspension so bad in this generation. My 14 got wrecked on an icy road. Had I known how bad the 15+ was, never would have bought new. IT's my daily driver and part time tow rig, so a Superduty just wasn't in the cards, but now wishing I had just done that instead.

gmw_photos
Explorer
Explorer
Well, in that case: "one ton dually".

Acdii
Explorer
Explorer
Wont help. Already went through the entire process, and have the WD setup properly. The issue is with the truck since I can replicate the strange actions without any trailer and just weight in the bed. The problem is that it is so subtle that normally I would not notice it, but since I am well aware of the motion while towing, it stands out. With a trailer on, the motions of the truck transfer to the trailer and amplifies until the trailer kicks out, and when the sway control brings it back inline, it starts over again. It only happens on uneven pavement, when on smooth road the truck settles down and rides fine.

All this time I thought it was the trailer causing the problem, but now I know, its the truck doing it.

gmw_photos
Explorer
Explorer
Acdii wrote:
I discovered the root cause of all my towing issues. It's not the trailer, not the hitch, not the weight distribution, and not the setup. It's the truck, and I am not very happy at all about it either.

I went to the feed store and got horse supplies which weighed very close to the weight when towing, and I specifically loaded it in such a way to mimic the weight distribution when towing. I had 480 pounds on the axle and slightly ahead of it, and 640 pounds behind it.

The truck drove just like it does when towing, the front is all over the place, left, right, up and down. It isn't as strong as when towing because the trailer amplifies it. I have my doubts that even the best hitch will resolve it. Am not happy at all.


Start over, from the beginning in WD hitch set up. Shoot for 100% FALR. Get it set that way, verified at the CAT scale. Tow. Come back and report.

Acdii
Explorer
Explorer
I discovered the root cause of all my towing issues. It's not the trailer, not the hitch, not the weight distribution, and not the setup. It's the truck, and I am not very happy at all about it either.

I went to the feed store and got horse supplies which weighed very close to the weight when towing, and I specifically loaded it in such a way to mimic the weight distribution when towing. I had 480 pounds on the axle and slightly ahead of it, and 640 pounds behind it.

The truck drove just like it does when towing, the front is all over the place, left, right, up and down. It isn't as strong as when towing because the trailer amplifies it. I have my doubts that even the best hitch will resolve it. Am not happy at all.

gmw_photos
Explorer
Explorer
The swivel latches on my Blue Ox are very safely dealt with by one of two things:

1. jack it up high enough with the tongue jack, and I can literally turn them by hand

2. If I am being lazy and did not raise it high enough, they safely ( but rapidly ) rotate loose with the ratchet mechanism on my craftsman ratchet with 1" socket on it.

There is absolutely zero reason to get hurt with this setup, if you connect and disconnect it correctly.

The trailer tows well with this hitch. Just got home from towing across Kansas with 25 to 35 mph side wind. Easy tow. 60mph driving, easy one handed steering.

73guna
Explorer
Explorer
My trailer tows good with the blue ox, but I really dislike the swivel latches.
Very dangerous in my opinion.
Ive had both the Equalizer and now blue ox.
Wish I had the Equalizer back.
Do yourself a favor and get the Equalizer.
2007 Chevy Silverado Crewcab Duramax.
2016 Wildwood 31qbts.

Hannibal
Explorer
Explorer
eTrailer's take on the BO verses the Reese Dual Cam.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-116001.html

I recently bought a barely used Equalizer 4 point 10k for our 32.5' TT. I torque the socket bolts to 65ft/lbs and grease the socket friction points per the manual. I also break the rules and rub a little grease on the L brackets. That's not a recommendation for others. Just what works for me. It's smooth and quiet and no waggle from passing trucks.
I think the occasional pop is the shank swapping sides in the receiver. Just a guess though.
2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

Acdii
Explorer
Explorer
I've taken to raising the whole unit with the round bar. Much easier to snap the tip ups. I just hope the power jack holds up. Reviews of the cam release were the only thing keeping me from making a decision, but finding one for far less than an Equalizer made it much easier. I usually carry a 1/2 long ratchet with for lug nuts, so wont be a problem.

wowens79
Explorer III
Explorer III
Good choice. I've got a Blue Ox and my tongue weight is hovering around 1000lbs, so Blue Ox recommended the 1500lb bars. I've had it for a year and I'm happy except that the paint on the pieces that mount to the trailer has not held up well, and has surface rust on it. Not really a big deal.

When releasing the spring bars, just jack the tongue and back of the truck up high and it will release most of the tension. Although when you are twisted in at an angle, it ma still be tight. Just be aware of it, and if it is tight, make sure the handle will be pulled away from you. Some people use a rachet so it doesn't yank the handle.
2022 Ford F-350 7.3l
2002 Chevy Silverado 1500HD 6.0l 268k miles (retired)
2016 Heritage Glen 29BH
2003 Flagstaff 228D Pop Up

Acdii
Explorer
Explorer
Decision made. Found a 1500 BO from Camping World for $449. Since I am already close to 1000# with the hitch weight, and plan to mount the genny to the A frame, the 1500# one should work just fine. Will also be good in case I upgrade to a heavier trailer in the next few years.