โMay-12-2013 01:46 PM
Beast3
โMay-19-2013 04:32 PM
beast_3 wrote:Did you decide to get the Puma 25RS?
---I deceided on an Equalizer wd hitch in the end. Customer service at Equalizer was very helpful and recommended their 1,000/10,000lb model.---
โMay-19-2013 03:20 PM
Beast3
โMay-13-2013 05:53 PM
beast_3 wrote:Two reasons come to mind immediately:
Is there any reason not to buy a hitch with the highest weight rating, even if it ends up being 300-400 pounds higher than the actual tongue and total TT weight?
Thanks!
โMay-13-2013 07:58 AM
โMay-13-2013 07:47 AM
beast_3 wrote:
We're close to making a choice on a TT and will need a weight distribution anti-sway bar hitch.
The dealer is recommending an Equalizer brand as that's what he carries. I'm finding them available online for 1/3 or more less than his price.
My question is based on my complete ignorance on what I'll need.
Is there any reason not to buy a hitch with the highest weight rating, even if it ends up being 300-400 pounds higher than the actual tongue and total TT weight?
Thanks!
โMay-13-2013 07:41 AM
I understand your comments, but I like others thought your initial comment was more a statement of fact and not your opinion. I agree the HA, Pull-Rite, Pro-Pride are better and they should be for the premium price they command. I happen to own an Equal-i-zer and unlike you I have found it to be a fine system and believe it is on par with all the other offerings like the Reese DC, Blue-ox, Anderson, etc. and for me the simplicity gives it a thumbs up over these other hitches. All WDHs have their own unique limitations like the Reese being picky about how exact it's set up needs to be, the non universal fitment between vehicles for the Pull-rite, how heavy the HA is and all the parts to it, so the fact that the differing WDH bars require different socket size for the Equal-i-zer system is not IMO a "major design flaw" as you described it, but just how the hitch is designed. The one other "quirk" of the older styled Equal-i-zers was the torquing of the brackets to prevent moving. Over torquing would reduce the net "clamping force" and subject the bracket to movement over time.
In the end as you said you have now stated your opinion and what it's based on which is fine just as I have now done.
Larry
โMay-13-2013 05:50 AM
โMay-13-2013 02:01 AM
jmtandem wrote:i'm very happy with my Equal-i-zer and it's a third of the cost of a Hensley or ProPride.
why not post what you think are better WDH's.
I am glad you are happy with your hitch. As to those that I view as a better hitch--virtually any other hitch on the market and you did list two of the three best. PullRite would be the other top hitch in my estimation. But there are many hitches in a mid price range that are better including the Reese Dual Cam. As an aside I have used the 1200/12000 Equalizer and purchased it after drinking the 'cool aid' glowing reports on this forum. I have not found the hitch to live up to the reports in several areas including constant loosening of the L brackets, the inability of the hitch head to share differing weight bars (a major design flaw) for those that might like to tow two or more trailers with differing spring bar needs, and the Airstream folks have cited potential issues with the Equalizer hitch for tongue and body to frame damage. Husky makes a model that works similar to the Equalizer that I think is an improvement.
At the end of the day all the Equalizer hitch does for sway mitigation is based purely on friction; friction against sway and friction to straighten a sway episode back to straight. Even the Dual Cam Reese actually helps the trailer to return to straight; a feature lacking in the Equalizer. In my experience the Equalizer does little or nothing for sway mitigation and those like you that use it and like the hitch probably have a tow vehicle and trailer that is loaded correctly and most likely would not sway. All three premium hitches control sway not just mitigate it. They are not based on friction like the Equalizer. If the OP is going to purchase a hitch and the dealer not willing to throw it in to the deal for free (not that it would really be free) then I suggest the OP at least look at hitches beyond the Equalizer. The hitch is important and there is a lot of money tied up in the truck and trailer so why not get a quality hitch and not let money be such a limiting factor. So what if a hitch costs three times as much as an Equalizer, what does that have to do with safety? Especially when it controls sway and not just mitigates it. The OP can purchase an inexpensive hitch now and later spend more on a better hitch. That just adds to the overall cost of getting to the place where the OP has the final hitch. Been there done that! A premium hitch is really inexpensive when purchased initially and not as a progressive purchase of hitches to finally get to the hitch really wanted. My comments were directed to help the OP get to the hitch wanted initially and not 'enjoy' several hitch upgrade iterations with a few hitches now unused laying around in a corner of the garage all adding to the final cost of that best hitch for the OP's situation.
If you don't agree with my comments that is fine; I have said nothing about your satisfaction with your use of the Equalizer only my experience.
โMay-12-2013 09:19 PM
i'm very happy with my Equal-i-zer and it's a third of the cost of a Hensley or ProPride.
why not post what you think are better WDH's.
โMay-12-2013 05:31 PM
jmtandem wrote:The dealer is recommending an Equalizer brand as that's what he carries.
Why not shop around and find the hitch you want, not the one the dealer sells? There are better hitches than the Equalizer.
โMay-12-2013 03:49 PM
โMay-12-2013 03:29 PM
โMay-12-2013 03:11 PM
The dealer is recommending an Equalizer brand as that's what he carries.
โMay-12-2013 02:27 PM
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories
I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going