You're saying no supplemental brake was installed, and you're saying the Jeep is "normal" now? Correct on both points?
I've heard of Jeep transfer cases disintegrating. I believe it was a result of problems with the front driveshaft. Maybe something in the transfer case itself. But again, you're saying the drivetrain is just fine, confirmed by Dealer, right? I want to be sure about this because I've had disc brakes "self apply" because of a clogged passage in the Master Cylinder. First, diagram of Master Cylinder:
Think of braking as a Handshake. We shake and then fully release each others' hand. Anybody can see we are no longer connected. That's the old Drum Brakes that had return springs. Springs forced fluid back to the master. Now consider another handshake. We join hands, squeeze cordially, but then just relax our grips. Still connected, bystander can't tell if we're locked in or not. That's DISK brakes. Without positive return force (springs like drums have) the fluid has to just bleed back to the master once pedal pressure is released.
Now the diagram: Look just to the Right of the two "Circuit Rear Seals" the ones just to the Left of the Springs, not the one between the Circuits that does not have a Spring by it. There is the "Fluid Intake and RETURN Port" for the front and rear brake portions of the master. Notice that the Ports are Forward of the Seals. They are very small holes that allow pressure to release, back into the Fluid Reservoir part of the Master.
OK, my Scenario: Intake/Return Port Clogged. Under even normal driving, towing in your case, that partial contact between Pads and Rotor (remember the relaxed handshake) heated up the Caliper and the Fluid. Maybe a Caliper was sticking a little but doesn't have to for this to happen. Heated Fluid expands. Can't get back to Master. Applies itself AND the other front brake as well. Part of same hydraulic circuit. Applied brakes get hotter. Fluid expands more, brakes apply harder. Hotter, Expands, finally Locks the Brakes.
Check the Master Cylinder AND the adjustment of the Rod between the Booster and the Master. There should be a little clearance (dealer should have the spec) before Booster moves Piston in Master. Check too for a binding Brake Pedal Pivot or Linkage.
Anything that doesn't allow RETURN flow can cause this. The Piston has to be all the way back or it'll act like the ports are plugged.
I had this happen. First time it slowed me down. Like the engine was losing power. Didn't realize it was brakes. No side pull since both were applied. Next time it stopped me. When I got out, BOTH front brakes were hot. Like a pair of BBQ grills. I could drive it home once it cooled. In retrospect I could have cracked either bleeder or the line back to the master. Took the master apart twice before I saw a little odd "spot" in the bore I had honed out. Checked from the top and corresponding "spot" which was aluminum corrosion, stiff enough I had to use a little "number drill" to clear it. No problem after.
The key here is that BOTH wheels were affected. If it's a Caliper only, one will get bad first.
Check it out.
I've heard of Jeep transfer cases disintegrating. I believe it was a result of problems with the front driveshaft. Maybe something in the transfer case itself. But again, you're saying the drivetrain is just fine, confirmed by Dealer, right? I want to be sure about this because I've had disc brakes "self apply" because of a clogged passage in the Master Cylinder. First, diagram of Master Cylinder:
Think of braking as a Handshake. We shake and then fully release each others' hand. Anybody can see we are no longer connected. That's the old Drum Brakes that had return springs. Springs forced fluid back to the master. Now consider another handshake. We join hands, squeeze cordially, but then just relax our grips. Still connected, bystander can't tell if we're locked in or not. That's DISK brakes. Without positive return force (springs like drums have) the fluid has to just bleed back to the master once pedal pressure is released.
Now the diagram: Look just to the Right of the two "Circuit Rear Seals" the ones just to the Left of the Springs, not the one between the Circuits that does not have a Spring by it. There is the "Fluid Intake and RETURN Port" for the front and rear brake portions of the master. Notice that the Ports are Forward of the Seals. They are very small holes that allow pressure to release, back into the Fluid Reservoir part of the Master.
OK, my Scenario: Intake/Return Port Clogged. Under even normal driving, towing in your case, that partial contact between Pads and Rotor (remember the relaxed handshake) heated up the Caliper and the Fluid. Maybe a Caliper was sticking a little but doesn't have to for this to happen. Heated Fluid expands. Can't get back to Master. Applies itself AND the other front brake as well. Part of same hydraulic circuit. Applied brakes get hotter. Fluid expands more, brakes apply harder. Hotter, Expands, finally Locks the Brakes.
Check the Master Cylinder AND the adjustment of the Rod between the Booster and the Master. There should be a little clearance (dealer should have the spec) before Booster moves Piston in Master. Check too for a binding Brake Pedal Pivot or Linkage.
Anything that doesn't allow RETURN flow can cause this. The Piston has to be all the way back or it'll act like the ports are plugged.
I had this happen. First time it slowed me down. Like the engine was losing power. Didn't realize it was brakes. No side pull since both were applied. Next time it stopped me. When I got out, BOTH front brakes were hot. Like a pair of BBQ grills. I could drive it home once it cooled. In retrospect I could have cracked either bleeder or the line back to the master. Took the master apart twice before I saw a little odd "spot" in the bore I had honed out. Checked from the top and corresponding "spot" which was aluminum corrosion, stiff enough I had to use a little "number drill" to clear it. No problem after.
The key here is that BOTH wheels were affected. If it's a Caliper only, one will get bad first.
Check it out.
