How old does it have to be to be too old?

[DeanCHS1980]

Hi All,

As new empty nesters, my DW and I bought a a new to us '05 Casita 17' Freedom Deluxe molded fiberglass trailer (egg camper) about 2 years ago. We love it! In fact, I am sitting in it now in the driveway as we get ready for a camping trip later this week.

I am pondering a small used Motorhome (Class C/B+, 25' or under) in a couple of years with the plan of using it for two to four years until retirement. This would give us the experience of towing and motoring RVs and the experience to determine what we want to do in terms of a retirement RV.

I have heard folks recommend used over new for a variety of reasons. And, I have heard some folks recommend that an "older, higher quality" rig makes more sense than a newer one. For example, I am a big fan Coach House Class Cs and of Chinook Class Cs, but Chinooks were only made through 2005. They were made from one piece molded fiberglass bodies on the Ford E350/E450 chassis. Owning a Casita, I am a fan of molded fiberglass. I also like the Ford E350/E450 chassis. However, given that the last Chinook Class Cs were made in 2005, many of the used ones are 12 to 20 years old. Some can still be found with no more than 50,000 to 75,000 miles, sometimes much less, but they are still getting relatively old.

So, how old does a high quality RV have to be to be too old? 😉 BTW, I can maintain systems, but I am not particuarly handy.

Your wisdom, thoughts and opinions would be appreciated.

Take care,

Dean

[darsben1]

I believe that is a setting under preferences but I cannot connect to the page right now

[DeanCHS1980]

Acdii wrote:

DeanCHS1980 wrote:

darsben1 wrote:
see my sig below

Hi darsben,

LOL, love your signature line!!! Speaks volumes regarding longevity in terms of motorhomes and relationships.

Thank you,

Dean

Interesting, I don't see any signatures, or pictures.

Hi Acdii,

See darsben's original post to my thread.

Take care,

Dean

[DeanCHS1980]

pnichols wrote:
For anything based on a Ford E Series (van) chassis, I'd recommend not earlier than 2005 so as to get the V10 engine that doesn't blow plugs and coupled to the computer controlled TorqShift 5-speed (6 gear ratios internally) transmission. The trick is to also get that mix - old enough to be able to afford - along with a nearly or completely one-piece fiberglass coach structure plus great workmanship inside the coach.

A Chinook Class C right at year 2005 on the Ford chassis may be the least expensive way to get exactly the right combination. Maybe a 2005/2006 Bigfoot Class C on the Ford chassis would provide a good combination, too. For added ruggedness, with some luck you might even be able to find one on the heavier Ford van chassis - which in later years was called their E450 chassis.

We had a 1969 Chinook "chassis mount" (Class C?) for many years in the 1980's. A partially fiberglass coach body with tough-as-nails constructioon throughout. I was a bit dangerous to park on slopes, though - based on it's GMC 3500 dually chassis that for some reason used an automatic transmission design with no park gear. The emergency brake was all there was!

Hi pnichols,

Appreciate your comments regarding the Ford E Series Chassis. LOL, I agree with your comment of "old enough to be able to afford"!!! I am definitely a fan of the Chinooks (but getting older) and the Coach Houses (very expensive) as well as a couple of other brands.

Hmm, that '69 Chinook looks like it could be a bear to park (on a slope).

Thanks,

Dean

[DeanCHS1980]

Matt_Colie wrote:
Boy am I going to provide an out-lier here.....

First, your basic assumption of the fiber glass shell is good. Water leaks that cause frame rot in the stick and staple coaches is a well known and understood killer.

Next, age is most important if the required maintenance has not been taken care off as it should.

No matter how good they look, get the ages of the tires and plan to replace the set if they are over eight years old. (You will get some "discussion" about this, and there are always exceptions. The damage a failing tire can do far exceeds the cost to replace them.)

At 12~15 years early problems start to show up. These will largely be related to elastomers (rubber parts) that age out. This is not just tires, but it is all the hoses (coolant, fuel and brake) belts and door seals. If these are dealt with in a timely fashion, the cost can be minimal as you can combine it with routine maintenance like the brake and cooling system flushes that should be done at that vehicle age (has little to do with miles).

Can this all be handled? It can be done by almost any literate person with a mechanical aptitude above yellow canary. Do I know about this? The coach in the picture is a '73 with 170K on it crossing the Mississippi about a thousand miles from home and I was more worried about the boat sinking.

Matt

Hi Matt,

I am definitely a fan of molded fiberglass even though all RVs can leak. I agree that solid maintenance can slow down age. I had to replace the tires on our Casita after our first trip in April, 2016 due to a blister the size of a baseball on the inside sidewall. I got tire religion and immediately replaced them. I am very mindful of proper air pressure, tire age, etc. My aptitude for good beer is better than my mechanical aptitude, but I think I can still beat a yellow canary (at least on a good day)! 😉 Love your picture.

Thanks,

Dean

[DeanCHS1980]

gbopp wrote:
CONDITION is the important factor.

I'm sure we have all seen 20+ year old rigs in excellent condition parked beside a ratty looking 5-10 year old unit.

Look at whatever interests you on a case by case basis.

Hi gbopp,

Good point. Just because Brand X is a quality rig does not mean that all examples of it are equal in terms of their future longevity. I definitely have three or four brands in mind for a future used motorhome, but each example will need to be evaluated on a case by case basis.

Thanks,

Dean

[Acdii]

DeanCHS1980 wrote:

darsben1 wrote:
see my sig below

Hi darsben,

LOL, love your signature line!!! Speaks volumes regarding longevity in terms of motorhomes and relationships.

Thank you,

Dean

Interesting, I don't see any signatures, or pictures.

[DeanCHS1980]

wa8yxm wrote:
How old is too old depends on are you talking about the RV or the RVer

RV's some parks say RV's over 10 years are "Too Old" but then I've seen some "historic" RV's (25 +) parked next to one just a few years old. THe same make, Same style, Same color and to be honest very hard to tell them apart. (Both looked beautiful).

RVers.. Well when you get two old.. 3 days later there will be a gathering of family and friends.. ONe final gathering.

Hi wa8yxm,

LOL, I guess "how old is too old" applies to us as well as the RV! 😉 As a couple in our mid 50s, we want to travel and camp as much as possible before that final gathering! 🙂

Thanks,

Dean

[DeanCHS1980]

Grit dog wrote:
Many factors involved in a rig being too old, not the least of which is how much you're used to doing for repairs and what you consider to be a burden or inconvienence with repairs.
Presuming you've been around the sun quite a few times now, you know what your budget, knowledge and patience level is with your vehicles. Use the same rule of thumb for your rv.

Hi Grit dog,

I am methodical about maintenance and if I can't do it, I will have it done. On the other hand, I am not that handy if anything of any complexity breaks.

It looks like the key is to ensure that the potential purchase of used motorhome comes from an owner that can demonstrate that maintenance has been valued and executed.

Thanks,

Dean

[DeanCHS1980]

doxiemom11 wrote:
We have a 2000 Class A. Have owned it 8 yrs and not sorry, and not ready to replace it anytime soon either.

Hi doxiemom11,

Nice!!! 17 y/o and still going strong.

Thank you,

Dean

[DeanCHS1980]

darsben1 wrote:
see my sig below

Hi darsben,

LOL, love your signature line!!! Speaks volumes regarding longevity in terms of motorhomes and relationships.

Thank you,

Dean

[DeanCHS1980]

navegator wrote:
It all depends on the maintenance done to the mechanical unit and how some people treat or trash the unit, I have seen 35+ year old units that look as good as new and some one year old units that look as if they came from the junk yard. save some money to have ready and start looking for a unit, that way when you find one that is worth it you can jump and grab it.

Be careful of scammers on the internet, make sure you actually see the unit and test drive it and least but not last ask why are they selling the unit.

There are some very good opportunities in Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California with some of the snow birds, either they get to old to continue or they get sick and fly home and sell the rigs where they are parked, the joke is to get to them before the dealer gets them, then the price goes trough the roof.

navegator

Hi navegator,

Agreed. I think maintenance is a key to product longevity, particularly if it is a high quality product to start. I have done well purchasing used cars from the original owners or 2nd owners that can vouch for their maintenance, etc.

We bought our Casita when it was 10 years old from the original owner with many upgrades and modifications. It still has many years of life. Of course, I think motorhomes are more complex than our little Casita, but the concept of maintenance applies.

Thanks,

Dean

[pnichols]

For anything based on a Ford E Series (van) chassis, I'd recommend not earlier than 2005 so as to get the V10 engine that doesn't blow plugs and coupled to the computer controlled TorqShift 5-speed (6 gear ratios internally) transmission. The trick is to also get that mix - old enough to be able to afford - along with a nearly or completely one-piece fiberglass coach structure plus great workmanship inside the coach.

A Chinook Class C right at year 2005 on the Ford chassis may be the least expensive way to get exactly the right combination. Maybe a 2005/2006 Bigfoot Class C on the Ford chassis would provide a good combination, too. For added ruggedness, with some luck you might even be able to find one on the heavier Ford van chassis - which in later years was called their E450 chassis.

We had a 1969 Chinook "chassis mount" (Class C?) for many years in the 1980's. A partially fiberglass coach body with tough-as-nails constructioon throughout. I was a bit dangerous to park on slopes, though - based on it's GMC 3500 dually chassis that for some reason used an automatic transmission design with no park gear. The emergency brake was all there was!

[Matt_Colie]

Boy am I going to provide an out-lier here.....

First, your basic assumption of the fiber glass shell is good. Water leaks that cause frame rot in the stick and staple coaches is a well known and understood killer.

Next, age is most important if the required maintenance has not been taken care off as it should.

No matter how good they look, get the ages of the tires and plan to replace the set if they are over eight years old. (You will get some "discussion" about this, and there are always exceptions. The damage a failing tire can do far exceeds the cost to replace them.)

At 12~15 years early problems start to show up. These will largely be related to elastomers (rubber parts) that age out. This is not just tires, but it is all the hoses (coolant, fuel and brake) belts and door seals. If these are dealt with in a timely fashion, the cost can be minimal as you can combine it with routine maintenance like the brake and cooling system flushes that should be done at that vehicle age (has little to do with miles).

Can this all be handled? It can be done by almost any literate person with a mechanical aptitude above yellow canary. Do I know about this? The coach in the picture is a '73 with 170K on it crossing the Mississippi about a thousand miles from home and I was more worried about the boat sinking.

Matt

[darsben1]

darsben1 wrote:
see my sig below

If you look at my signature you will see I am in a 1990 Southwind.
Do you need a better explanation of my post?