Welcome to RV'ing!!!
First, decide if you believe in the OEM ratings or not
If not, then do whatever knowing you have taken the OEM(s) off the liability
and warranty hook...they would now be your responsibility
If yes, then bone up on how those systems work. Pay special attention to the
fine print in all ratings from any OEM. That modifies the numbers they post
Here is a diagram that might help you visualize how the ratings systems look
like and work together in concert.
Too many take a single ratings number out of context and beleive it is an absolute
It is NOT...there are interdependencies
Best is to go out and actually weigh your TV & trailer. Individually and setup,
axle by axle. Fully loaded as if going RVing. That is the only way to know where
you are in reference to your ratings. If you do NOT have actual weights, then
us their maximum rated weight ratings to plug it into this diagram. To then do
the simple math
The generic formula is:
GCWR => TV + TT + stuff
. Stuff as
in people, pets, food, clothing, WD Hitch system, etc, etc, etc
Good luck!
howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditow
-Ben
Picture of my rig1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...