I weighed my setup

[opnspaces]

My trailer has not changed, but the tow vehicle has changed. My 1996 Suburban 3/4 ton 4x4 is dead and I now have a 2001 Suburban 3/4 ton 4x4.

So today I went to get the trailer out of storage and setup the weight distribution (WD) for the new truck. As a bonus, since there is a landfill facility about a half mile from storage I figured I'd get some weights and see what input you all can offer. When I asked about the weights the operator asked if I needed certified weights to which I answered no. When I was done weighing and looking at the numbers I can see some discrepancies which makes me wonder if the lady wrote the numbers down wrong, or if their scale is really that off. In the end though I don't think the differences in weights are enough to worry about. At least not at this point in setting up the hitch.

Here are the numbers. The truck and trailer look level and pulled fine although there was definitely more porpoising than with the older Suburban. I'm thinking I need more front axle weight although I'm surprised how close the initial numbers seem to be. Any suggestions if it was yours or would you leave it alone?

Weights labeled "Whole truck is front and rear wheels on the scale"

Rear axle calculated is because there was no way to get rear alone with a trailer hooked up so I subtracted the front axle from the whole truck number.



Had to edit this post as I realized that it wasn't clear that the trailer weight was with the trailer still hooked to the hitch.

[BenK]

No need for higher grade washers in this application

The force needed to deform is way higher than the hitch head is capable, but if there us any movement, there is a wear potential. There should be no movement and if so, something is wrong

Yes you can calculate. Need the front suspension spring rate vs distance curve, but just weighing it easier

IIRC, a 2001 is the transition year and don't remember if yours has the weak design reciever...that has a "U" bracket that attempts to transfer forces to the bottom of the bumper

That very poor design will NOT easily transfer much more to the front axle

If so, best to replace it. A better and higher rated reciever would be about $200 bucks, plus labor

Search on this site using = POS reciever, or GMT800 reciever

[opnspaces]

Other question, can I infer or calculate my tongue weight based on the measurements I already have?

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Thanks Bedlam, I'm running an Equal-i-zer with 1,000 lb bars. The bars are parallel to the frame when hooked up and I'm using 6 washers. Since the manual states I can run a max of 8 washers I think I'll add one more washer. I just have to go to Home Depot and get a grade 8 washer. My thinking could be wrong, but I'm thinking a grade 5 or worse a grade 2 from the general bolt bin might compress over time.

[Bedlam]

Assuming your trailer is level or just slightly tongue down when hitched to your Suburban, I would torque the WDH more so you restore most of your unloaded front axle weight. Depending on your WDH, this might require changing the angle of the hitch head or using one link less on the spring bars