New Camper problems

[FULL-THROTTLE]

I need some help with my new 2020 Cougar 26RBS, When it was plugged into the rv stores 240v plug everything worked perfectly, I drive it home and nothing works, I plugged a 120v from and outside of my house outlet to the 25ft cable, now I get lights and tv and refrigerator. I pulled the brand new battery and put it on my charger and it was completely dead. So I connect jumper cables from my truck to the battery cable on the rv and everything works, slide, fridge, awning so assume I have let the battery charge overnight. I put it back in the rv and again nothing, I put the jumper cables to the rv battery and everything comes alive I don't get it I assumed with 120v from the house it would run the slide and awning. What am I missing here?

Thank you,

Fran

[bikendan]

FULL-THROTTLE wrote:
I am thinking of putting two 800cca optima rv batteries wired in parallel, does any one else do this?

Anything with a CCA rating, is not the best choice for a towable.
CCA ratings are for starting an engine, towables don't have engines so a CCA ratings is useless.
Get a true deep cycle battery, like a pair of 6v golf cart batteries in series.

[wa8yxm]

Ok, FIrst the battery disconnect is not in the disconnected position.
How do I know this:
"I put the jumper cables to the battery from the truck and everything works"

Converter may be non-working.. Battery may be "Flat" (unable to take a charge)

Adapter to house power may be. iffy.

Now as for the "Everything works with jumper cables on battery"

Trailers have two power systems (motor homes have a 3rd but we will ignore that for the most part) some have an additional power system (Both MH and Trailers) I will cover that.

The first system is the 12 volt system.. This runs all the Lights, Fans, Water pump, Furnace, Slides, steps if they are electric, Jacks if they are electric, it also provides CONTROL power for the Fridge, Water heater and optionally air conditioners (if wall mounted T-stat for sure it provides).

120 volt system Air Conditioner, Operational power for water heater, Fridge (on electric in both cases) and the converter (charges battery provides 12 v when on shore power) appearances are this is NOT working more on that later.

MH only. 12 volt chassis system.. or in your case the battery in your Truck.

optional inverter.. This is a device that makes 120 volt out of 12 volt (the "inverse" of what the Converter does) This may run the microwave and it may need 12 volt battery power to operate the internal control comnputer as well.

So Here are some testing methods.. DO you have TWO A/Cs.. If so turn both to FAN only Do both work when plugged into the house or does just one work.

IF only one.. your problem is the adapter. get a new one (Hey I've seen em happen)

IF both work check all the 120 volt breakers is there one marked CONV or Converter.. That's the prime suspect Cycle it off and on.

The converter has fuses.. they may be blown They are called Reverse Polarity fuses for good reason You will need to find the converter UNLESS it is part of the power distribution panel.. if so look for 30 amp fuses (often far right) if more than one both may be blown and need to be replaced at the same time UNPLUGGED

Finally I have found many RVers have a few screws loose... A #2 Square bit often works well to tighten them.. Start by UNPLUGING and taking a flashlight into the RV and then check each and every screw in the breaker box.

(You thought perhaps my Screws loose was a different type of screw.. nope. Head properly attached. It is the "Oh I would never RV" folks that have that issue :))

Good luck and PLEASE let us know what you find.

[FULL-THROTTLE]

I am thinking of putting two 800cca optima rv batteries wired in parallel, does any one else do this?

[Grit_dog]

Best time to get it fixed is when they’re slow.
Call them, tell them the battery is junk, drop off RV. Pick it up later. Don’t have to go hug them or anything.
Better yet drop off the battery and have them put a new one in the back of your truck. Don’t even have to roll down your windows...

[FULL-THROTTLE]

First of all I want to say thank you all for your input, I did remover the battery a second time and it shows 30% full, and when it was in the rv and not in use, (120v house fed extension cord), the master key was off. SSOOOO it has to be the battery. The rv dealership is limited on staff due to this **** virus, Im not sure I want to go into their building till things settle down. I will keep you updated.

Thanks Again,

Fran

[Grit_dog]

Load test the battery. Don't understand how it took a charge but was dead.

[Grit_dog]

^What he said.
But more importantly, you need to learn how your rv works. Ben did a great job explaining it.
Sounds like only issue is a dead/bad battery.

[Thermoguy]

If you just bought it new from a dealer and something is not working, why not take it back to them? If they sold you a dead battery, they should change it. If there is a different electrical problem, they should fix it. Why spend the time troubleshooting? You did the basic, now let them figure it out.

[SidecarFlip]

One thing about Biscuit, he cuts right to it... Bad battery x 10.

[travisc]

Take the battery somewhere go be load tested to confirm that

[ramyankee]

Cannot imagine the dealer would have put in an uncharged battery, BUT.

[Boomerweps]

If you thought it was 240vac at the dealer, it was probably a 4 pole RV 50 amp 120vac system. RVs use 50 amp and 30 amp plugs. The 50 amp is TWO 120 volt supply legs that share a common return/neutral. So although it is called 50 amp, it actually totals 100 amps. The separate legs power separate busses (grouped circuits) so if one leg isn't supplied, its associated circuits and appliances are not either, like one air conditioning unit on one leg each when you have dual AC units. Most 50 amp RV adapters link the supply to both legs which means limited power to all circuits. You MAY not be sending any power to the converter to charge the battery.
Bottom line, your adapter may be hosing you.
Have you tried charging the battery disconnected from the RV, measure the charge, let it set a day, then measure the charge again to check the self discharge rate?
Edit: just reread thread. Brand new, take it back to the dealer to repair/replace battery. Brand new, dealer problem to solve!

[hondapro]

Add me to the list,bad battery

[Flute_Man]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You have a bad battery

X2