Pullrite capture plate dilemma/questions

[Mike-WJ]

Im making the jump from a popup to a 5th wheel camper and just ran into a snag. I have an 08 Dodge 2500 with the 6'4" bed, and I bought a pullrite superglide 16k, seems like a great idea. The insanely expensive mounting kit will arrive in a few days, and then I will look for a camper.
What I failed to plan for is that different campers will require different capture plates in order for the pullrite to work. I cant go buy a capture plate now, cause I dont know what camper Im getting, and I cant go buy a camper cause I cant tow it without a capture plate. Kind of a catch 22 here.

Is there a way to lock the pullrite forward? So it wont rotate, negating the need for the capture plate, and just not make any sharp turns.

I have not looked at a pin box up close yet. I assume they are made of relatively thick steel. Can i weld a "key" directly to the pin box, negating the need for a capture plate? Or is the metal too thin for that?

[C_B_]

This slide lock adaptor was made in 2004 and has been used to pull customer trailers ever since. NO damage has been done to my Pullrite Superglide or my trailers or customers trailers.











When tightened in place and jam nut tightened slide will not move.







I did not modify Pullrite's Hitch in any way.


C.B.

[2112]

I did exactly what Pullrite said not to do.
When I went to pick up my new FW we discovered the dealer ordered the wrong plate.
To get the FW home that day, about 60 miles, I tightened the front tension bolt and jam nuts as tight as I could to prevent the hitch from turning. The tech greased the top of the hitch and the jaw.
It got me home and apparently no harm to my hitch. Two years later it still works as new.

I'm not recommending this but it is what I did.

[Mike-WJ]

rjxj wrote:
Find the FW, look at the numbers on the pin box, check CW for the correct plate. UPS will get it to you pretty quick if you cant find one in stock.

Yes, picture frame here, short profile foot there and the next thing you know you spend $2,500

Pretty much all teh money I got from selling my little camper has gone toward this hitch, and I got a direclink brake controller. Im gonna be left with about 50 bucks to put towards a new camper lol.

[Mike-WJ]

n7bsn wrote:
The problem with welding anything to the pin-box, is that pin-box can now ONLY be used on a Pullrite Superglide.
That's why my capture plate is a bolt-on.
I can remove it so someone else can move the rig.

Of course -with- the capture plate, if someone with a regular hitch tries to steal the rig, they are going to have SERIOUS issues the first time they try to make a corner.

Yeah removable is definitely better. Welding was more of a plan C last chance idea.

[Mike-WJ]

southernsky wrote:
The dealer who sold you the hitch should have the plate. If not it can be overnight shipped. There is no way to keep the hitch from sliding without the plate and would you really want to modify the high dollar hitch? Been having a Pullrite for awhile now and really like it. The down side is different pin boxes will take a different plate. I have two different ones now because I bought a new camper.

There is no dealer for a hundred miles, and I dont mind modifying it. I dont leave anything alone.

[Mike-WJ]

Jaxom wrote:
PullRite specifically says don't lock the slider. I assume the jaws are not designed to handle the stress of the king pin pivoting there instead of below on the rails.
That being said, I had need to pull a regular, non-PullRite equipped, 5th wheel once. I made a bracket that secured the 5th wheel from pivoting and sliding. It worked just fine for a one-time tow.

The bar on the ground to the right of the base is what I made. I went across the upper part of the base and slipped above and below the rearmost part of the 5th wheel hitch head where the king pin slides into position.

Hope this helps.

Awesome. Locking it to the back is a much better idea than locking it forward. That will solve my problems.

[Jaxom]

PullRite specifically says don't lock the slider. I assume the jaws are not designed to handle the stress of the king pin pivoting there instead of below on the rails.
That being said, I had need to pull a regular, non-PullRite equipped, 5th wheel once. I made a bracket that secured the 5th wheel from pivoting and sliding. It worked just fine for a one-time tow.

The bar on the ground to the right of the base is what I made. I went across the upper part of the base and slipped above and below the rearmost part of the 5th wheel hitch head where the king pin slides into position.

Hope this helps.

Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum recommended limit of 640px maximum width.

[southernsky]

The dealer who sold you the hitch should have the plate. If not it can be overnight shipped. There is no way to keep the hitch from sliding without the plate and would you really want to modify the high dollar hitch? Been having a Pullrite for awhile now and really like it. The down side is different pin boxes will take a different plate. I have two different ones now because I bought a new camper.

[n7bsn]

The problem with welding anything to the pin-box, is that pin-box can now ONLY be used on a Pullrite Superglide.
That's why my capture plate is a bolt-on.
I can remove it so someone else can move the rig.

Of course -with- the capture plate, if someone with a regular hitch tries to steal the rig, they are going to have SERIOUS issues the first time they try to make a corner.

[azrving]

Find the FW, look at the numbers on the pin box, check CW for the correct plate. UPS will get it to you pretty quick if you cant find one in stock.

Yes, picture frame here, short profile foot there and the next thing you know you spend $2,500