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Questions on first toad set up

cpd520
Explorer
Explorer
We recently purchased our first MH. A 2004 Itasca Suncruiser 33V on a workhorse chassis. We are now ready to purchase our first toad. We are looking at a used Jeep Liberty. How do I set it up to tow?

Looking to do it right the first time and didn't want to rely only on the person trying to sell me something.

What products/set up will be user friendly and good bang for my buck?

Do I want/need an auxiliary breaking system?

Anything I need to know before I take the Jeep in?

Thanks in advance for any help.
Jack and Nina
8 REPLIES 8

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Liltippy wrote:
I have a total Ready Brute Elite system and it works great. One caution, after you install, unhook your toad and take it for a drive. As you know, each time you press on the brake pedal, the cable will entend out the front of the car. When "hooked up" the cable will correctly retract into the toad and the toad brakes will release.

However, when the toad is not "hooked up" there is no weight on the cable. As a result it may not fully retract into the toad and as a result, the toad brakes will still be applied!

Just check it out. How do I know,.....experience is a wonderful teacher.

???
The more weight on the front, the more resistance to full retraction. The times mine didn't fully retract, the problem was improper adjustment where it was fastened to the brake pedal. When I finally got the brake pedal attachment adjusted correctly, mine has retracted perfectly every since.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

Liltippy
Explorer
Explorer
I have a total Ready Brute Elite system and it works great. One caution, after you install, unhook your toad and take it for a drive. As you know, each time you press on the brake pedal, the cable will entend out the front of the car. When "hooked up" the cable will correctly retract into the toad and the toad brakes will release.

However, when the toad is not "hooked up" there is no weight on the cable. As a result it may not fully retract into the toad and as a result, the toad brakes will still be applied!

Just check it out. How do I know,.....experience is a wonderful teacher.
2011 Winnebago Sightseer 33C
2007 HHR Toad with ReadyBrute Elite towbar and brake

cpd520
Explorer
Explorer
Bobbo wrote:
Blue Ox baseplate
Ready Brute Elite tow bar with built in surge brake
Brake lights for the car, either diodes or separate bulbs

This is the path I took with my Subaru 3 years ago. If doing it today, I would do nothing differently.


Queens Carriage wrote:
On my 2005 liberty the rear taillight lenses. The bottom red section isn't used, that makes it easy to use separate bulbs and wiring for your lighting system. Try E-trailer.com


Thanks everyone for the input. With the info provided from the helpful folks here and a little additional research I have opted for the Ready Brute Elite tow bar/braking sys., Blue Ox base plate and I bought a Blue Ox wiring kit which will allow me to use the empty red lens cell in the tail light assembly.

Now the fun starts. Parts arrive on Wednesday and install will ensue. Lots of info available and I plan on doing it all myself.
Jack and Nina

Queens_Carriage
Explorer
Explorer
On my 2005 liberty the rear taillight lenses. The bottom red section isn't used, that makes it easy to use separate bulbs and wiring for your lighting system. Try E-trailer.com

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Blue Ox baseplate
Ready Brute Elite tow bar with built in surge brake
Brake lights for the car, either diodes or separate bulbs

This is the path I took with my Subaru 3 years ago. If doing it today, I would do nothing differently.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

WeRmudfun
Explorer
Explorer
It's funny you just posted that question, I just posted my whole setup on our Jeep Liberty it's the post under yours...
Click here
One husband, one wife, one son, one dog

2006 Jayco Greyhawk 29GS
2011 Jeep Liberty

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enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
You need to first decide which style of tow bar is best for you. I have had a Roadmaster Falcon II and a Roadmaster Stowmaster. I like the stow master better as there is only one connection. It uses a ball mount on the MH.
I do not have but like the idea of the Roadmaster All-terrain with the latches that appear to easier to operate then the buttons I have.
Base plates for the Toad. They need to match the tow bar style.
Lights need to be installed. I use the ones utilizing diodes. Some people like separate bulbs other like the magnetic lights.
An Auxiliary braking system is a good idea. They do help on stopping once it is setup correctly. I have a SMI Stay-N-Play. It is permanently mounted in the rig. I do not care for systems like the Brake Buddy that requires it to be removed prior to operating the toad. All I have to do is turn it on to tow and turn off when not in use. Any auxiliary braking device needs to come with the brake-away feature.
Here is website for Roadmaster for you to look for what they offer.Roadmaster
You need to find a good shop to do the install.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

siggyd777
Explorer
Explorer
With the Itasca 33v ,You DO need an aux. braking system. But in any case
you DO NEED it for the lawyers,if you ever have an accident.
ALWAYS keep an extra good distance away from the cars & trucks,so you have plenty of road to stop in time!
Just my humble opinion.
Siggy
Happy Trails
Siggy & Ursula
2011 Dutch Star 4020,ISL 400,Compr.brake,FTL XCR,IFS
Allison MH3000
2015 Jeep Cherokee,4x4 Active Drive II,V6 , Brake Buddy,Roadmaster Sterling,
Camping since 1975 Pop-Up,1986 22Ft.TT,1999 Gas MH,2005 KSDP,
2011 DSDP,FMCA 368283