RUST CONVERTOR vs RUST REMOVER

[Mr__Steve]

I have some rust under my MH, want to treat it. Just not sure which is best way to go.. RUST CONVERTOR vs RUST REMOVER? Any thoughts or experiance in this area appreciated. Thanks !

[stripit]

POR-15 works great, that is why the car nuts buy and use it so much. Knock off the loose scaly rust and brush the product on. Your done. It wears like iron, comes in semi gloss or gloss colors and is easy to apply. Beware, do not get it on your skin and let it dry. You will be wearing that color for weeks!!

[Dave_H_M]

OSPHO is just phosphoric acid. It converts iron oxide to iron phosphate. I cannot find it here any more but can find the same stuff in the metal prep section of Home Depot by the gall0on.

I have found that rust will eventually creep back with time if the area is not painted after treatment. I use a spray bottle for app also along with eye protection and hand protection.

[Chuck_Gail]

I've used both, Rust Converter worked FAR better. In fact it says it leaves a primer, but I never bothered to paint over it. Worked great.

[weathershak]

Mr Steve wrote:

weathershak wrote:

Mr Steve wrote:
If I do not need to paint over it that would work pretty nicely.

What I used with great results

Any concern with tail pipe, etc or hot spots?

I didnt spray my exhaust with it due to S/steel pipes but did get overspray on them. I just used compressed air and a wire brush to prep the area and sprayed the stuff on. I did spray a gloss paint over it when it dried. It was fast, easy and I am happy with the results.

[path1]

had the same question see link http://www.google.com/#fp=d376bad89d5753b2&q=por+15+reviews&revid=1489892140 I went with POR because many car "nuts" used it. Wear old clothes and have a box of throw away gloves nearby. I was surprised how far a couple quarts go. And when poring out of can, clean ring of can and lid because if you don't when you put the lid back on and it dries very had to get lid off again (that is how good it sticks).
Very happy with resultshttp://www.por15.com/
After reading info from a ton of manufactures that say their stuff "works the best", my final choice to use this stuff was based on "if they get that kind of money for this stuff and people buy it and like it, it must be good". I think I paid $27 or $37 dollars a QUART!!! But remember a little goes a long way. I didn't use their prep stuff. Got off old rust (best I could) with wire brush attachment on drill and went for it. And found I had most control using a little paint brush about 1/2 inch size.

[BroncosFan]

https://www.youtube.com/results?q=por15&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-...

[Mr__Steve]

weathershak wrote:

Mr Steve wrote:
If I do not need to paint over it that would work pretty nicely.

What I used with great results

Any concern with tail pipe, etc or hot spots?

[weathershak]

Mr Steve wrote:
If I do not need to paint over it that would work pretty nicely.

What I used with great results

[Mr__Steve]

Just re-read your comments, look like I do need to paint over it.

[Mr__Steve]

If I do not need to paint over it that would work pretty nicely.

[USARMYCW]

When I was in the commercial paint business I bought it by the 5 gallon can. We maintained commercial waste containers.

I have brushed it on and also put it in a spray bottle and sprayed it on.

It's a chemical that stops rust. After cleaning the loose rust from the metal we let it dry and painted right over the ospho. Didn't use any additional undercoating. I have never had problems with wiring. The fumes don't do the nostrils any good.

Bought it at Sherwin Williams paint store.

[Mr__Steve]

Hello USARMYCW, thanks for inut. Does it come in spray on and does it damage wireling, etc? Is it a rust remover? 🙂 I know, alot of questions.

[USARMYCW]

"Ospho". It kills rust. Of course you need to scrape the loose stuff off first.