To run or not to run

[gwtriker]

Question came up that has me wondering ....

My "A" gasser (V10) is asleep for the winter: changed the oils and filters, added Stabil to the topped off tank and ran it thru the engine and the generator, cleaned & polished the inside and outside, connected battery tenders to the batteries and covered her up snug as a bug.

A friend of mine who owns a "C" also with a V10 asked if I ever start the engine and generator any time while its down for the winter. For the 10 years of owning both C's and now the A, I haven't and don't. He says every 10 days to 2 weeks, he uncovers the front of his C, makes sure the cover is away from the exhausts and runs both the engine and generator (with no load) for about 20 minutes. He says this keeps the seals, gaskets, etc lubricated.

How many of you run your engine and generator after putting your rigs away for the winter? Is this something that should be done?

[koda55]

We have had one gas and one diesel onan generators. Each one recommended running the generator for one hour under half load.

[CavemanCharlie]

On my boat the procedure is to run some Engine Fogger through it as I shut it down for the winter. It is essentially a light oils that you run through the engine until it dies. Then you unhook the battery and park it for the winter. (Keeping the battery on a tender is good)

This is probably the best thing to do for all engines that set. Go to a marina and ask them for some Engine Fogger and how to use it.

Also put some fuel stabilizer in the tank and run it long enough to get it through the fuel system.

[seaeagle2]

Generac air cooled residential stand by generators (the ones that are permanently wired to a transfer switch and run on natural gas or propane) automatically exercise for 12 minutes once a week.....maybe a little different animal but that's how they're set up.

[Sam_Spade]

Matt_Colie wrote:

Thermal cycles are hard on any engine.

Fog the engine with fogging oil

Never mind that the engines are designed specifically to BE heat cycled.....sometimes more than once a day. Several other factors cause much more wear than just the heat cycle.

And "fogging" is not necessary for any storage less than 6 months unless maybe you are in REALLY extreme and harsh conditions.

Like many things, overthinking stuff like this is often worse than just keeping it simple.

IF you follow the manufacturers recommendations, it's hard to go wrong. IF you follow the recommendations of self-appointed Internet experts, it is real EASY to go wrong.

[Sam_Spade]

Dave H M wrote:


So my vote is not to run.You have got "opinions" from one extreme to the other.

Your "method" is OK.....kind of.

It's good for the carb to sit there dry; well maybe except for some models in which the gaskets and seals will crack if dry.

As for the tank being empty, that encourages water accumulation and tank rust inside if your environment has wide temp and humidity swings. Of course, it probably takes the tank a long time to rust through; not so long for rust to plug up the fuel filter or carb jets.

Onan and others recommend keeping them full and running periodically for good reasons. Ignoring those recommendations and doing something entirely different and not having problems just means.......you got lucky......so far.

Note: Your "run once a year" tractor is a whole different animal.

[Matt_Colie]

Listen to Roy and Dave.

Thermal cycles are hard on any engine. Running it and not getting to full operating temperature makes it even worse.

Take a tip from marine people that put engines up for the winter.
Fog the engine with fogging oil while running the carburetor dry.
Disconnect the battery.
Now, leave it alone.

About fuel injection (gas or diesel - same) put in a fuel conditioner and run enough fuel so it is up to the injection system. Fog a gas engine by just running it. A diesel can be fogged, but care must be taken that it not run away on the oil.

Matt

[Dave_H_M]

My stick home back up genny has not been run for years. The carb is dry and the fuel tank empty.

I will bet anyone my next social security check that it will fire up and run fine.

I have a 1950 ford tractor that I only crank up and use on a tractor drive each fall. Been doing it for years. Carb empty and gas tank empty when in storage. It has been cranking up faithfully for years.

I do keep battery tenders on batts that never get used. My choice is the Deltran ones.

So my vote is not to run.You have got "opinions" from one extreme to the other.

What do to now. :h :W

[KD4UPL]

The generator manufacturer, if an Onan, requests that you start the generator every month or 2 and operate it under 1/2 load for an hour or 2. (I forget the specifics).
As for the V10, I think running it for 20 minutes likely does it more harm than good. It will just build up moisture in the oil.

[westend]

What does the Mfg of your equipment say about storage in the owner's manual?
I've had my hands on a few engines and Onan/Cummins, for one, is real specific about storage. It requires start up at intervals during storage.

Batteries are another item that doesn't like storage for long periods without charging. Sure, a lead acid battery may start the engine after a long storage time but that isn't doing the battery any favors. As it sulfates, sitting, you are pulling days off it's life expectancy.

For me, it's easy enough to start the high dollar stuff once in awhile over Winter and to maintain batteries.

[bsinmich]

Living her in MI. we get cold weather. I store my MHs inside for the winters and don't have the opportunity to run them in a barn full of RVs. The well charged battery lasts through the winter and starts in the spring. I can't run the generator either and have never had a generator problem. Only have owned motorhomes since 1986.

[Sam_Spade]

gwtriker wrote:

How many of you run your engine and generator after putting your rigs away for the winter? Is this something that should be done?

I think this probably has been discussed to DEATH more than once on here already. Have you looked ??

The engines will be just fine if they are properly prepared like you did and sitting for 6 months or less. A small generator is a bit more iffy though.

The main purpose of running things is to keep the batteries charged. The secondary purpose is to keep fresh fuel in the carburetors. Once a month is plenty for that. Stirring up the oil really isn't necessary.

In your situation, I would just be sure that the stabilized fuel makes it into the generator and then just let is sleep.

[tenbear]

I run the genny during the winter whenever it gets warm enough, about once a month.

The MH is winterized in the fall and I don't run it until I de-winterize it in the spring. I have understood that it is best not to run it for short periods in the winter.

[Rbertalotto]

Unless you can get the engine (any engine) up to operating temperature, and hold it there for about a half hour, you should not start an internal combustion engine. You need to get the engine and oil hot enough to boil off the condensation that will form in the first few minutes of the engine running. If you don't get rid of the moisture you can cause rust in the cylinders, valve train and other areas.
Leaving an engine up to six months without starting is usually not an issue. Longer than that and I'd pull spark plugs and fog the cylinders, change the oil and filters and fog the injectors (if possible) and fog the carburetor (if it has one).

Using a good synthetic oil also helps as it clings to metal parts better than dino oil and reduces wear at start up. Some oils actually have minuet magnetic particles to cling to the metal parts.

In any regard you should add a fuel stabilizer to the gas and be sure the tank is filled to the spout so there is little room for condensation. This is the biggest issue currently with long term storage. The 10-15% alcohol in todays fuels grabs water from the air and this water settles at the bottom of the tank causing all kinds of problems in boats and motorcycles that sit for long periods of time. Diesel is much less susceptible to this problem.

If possible, turn the engine over slowly without it starting after a long hibernation......remove spark plugs and turn with a wrench.

But......Lots of folks will simply tell you none of this matters. Just start it up and go! It's your dime...

[Homer1]

gwtryker: What you do is exactly what I have done for nearly 40 years of owning motor homes. I have never had a problem. I put wood slabs under the tires, but do not move them. Battery minders are very important.