Towing camper with van. What rating hitch should I purchase?

[spol11]

Tow vehicle: 2013 Nissan Quest SV 6 cyl.
Max tow capacity: 3500#
Torque: 240 ft/lb

RV: 2000 Trailmanor 2720 SL
Dry weight: 2875#
Payload cap: ~1210#
Hitch weight: ~392#

In the van will be my wife and two young kids.
Van dry weight: 4400#
So, vehicle weight + load/passenger = approx. 5000#

I'm looking at whether a class 2 or class 3 trailer hitch would be more appropriate. As well as whether a weight distribution hitch might be an even safer idea.

Thoughts on safety of pulling this pop up/expandable camper with my van??

[bikendan]

spol11 wrote:
Bikendan, that was dry TW. I've redone my math.... I would have to somehow keep my van/trailer payload at/under 300# to be safe and that's just not happening. And the TW is an immediate issue, so that van wont be pulling anytime soon.
Valhalla360, I have already started looking. I'll be back in the forums with more questions once I get a proper TV.

Yep, the 350lbs max hitch weight is the main weakness for minivans, then the 3500lbs towing capacity.
That's why Popups, teardrops and A-frames are about the only choices.

[spol11]

Bikendan, that was dry TW. I've redone my math.... I would have to somehow keep my van/trailer payload at/under 300# to be safe and that's just not happening. And the TW is an immediate issue, so that van wont be pulling anytime soon.
Valhalla360, I have already started looking. I'll be back in the forums with more questions once I get a proper TV.

[valhalla360]

spol11 wrote:
valhalla360... I'm trying hard to get someone to tell me everything will work out great and my setup is fine 🙂

At this very moment, a truck is unobtainable. But after going through my math numerous times and getting great feedback on this forum, I'm quickly realizing a used truck will likely be in my driveway by next year.

You can get a reliable 4 door pickup that will easily handle that trailer pretty cheap.

Our current 2008 F250 4 door was only $10k and we've had it for 2yrs with nothing but standard maintenance (not that you need a 3/4 ton). Our previous 3/4 ton was only $6k. Reliability has never been an issue buying at around 10yrs old (current truck is really clean but body rust can be an appearance issue)

[bikendan]

spol11 wrote:
Good input bikendan.
I have found that the tongue weight on this particular trailer is about 390#. Obviously that still exceeds the van's max TW.
Would a weight dist. hitch help at all??
or is it as simple as TW cannot exceed TW capacity of towing vehicle? thanks in advance.

a WDH will not lower tongue weight, it just shifts it. and is that 390lbs the actual weighed tongue weight or a brochure/website "dry" tongue weight? and we haven't even discussed the van's payload capacity.

[spol11]

valhalla360... I'm trying hard to get someone to tell me everything will work out great and my setup is fine 🙂

At this very moment, a truck is unobtainable. But after going through my math numerous times and getting great feedback on this forum, I'm quickly realizing a used truck will likely be in my driveway by next year.

[valhalla360]

I would pick the hitch attached to a truck with sufficient ratings.

[spol11]

Good input bikendan.
I have found that the tongue weight on this particular trailer is about 390#. Obviously that still exceeds the van's max TW.
Would a weight dist. hitch help at all??
or is it as simple as TW cannot exceed TW capacity of towing vehicle? thanks in advance.

[bikendan]

spol11 wrote:
Thanks for the replies everyone! Definitely good feedback. I figured class 3 was better option but this solidified my choice.
I also knew that I was going to be maxed out (or very close) with supplies in camper/van but some of your info has me thinking I need to just purchase a truck with better towing capabilities sooner than later. The last thing I want to do is ruin the transmission on my wife's van in a year or two of camping.
(sorry for the cross post).

There aren't any hybrids with a dry tongue weight under 350lbs. The Rockwod Roo line of hybrids, are the best selling hybrid line and the most floorplans. Their smallest Roo 19 has a fictitious dry tongue weight of 448lbs. That's with no battery, no factory options, no water and no cargo.
Popups or A-frame trailers are pretty much all you can tow with that. It's the 350lbs max hitch weight that's the biggest issue.

[Lwiddis]

“I need to just purchase a truck with better towing capabilities sooner than later.“

Good plan. Could also consider a Tahoe or Expedition. Look at the payload sticker before anything else. Not what the salesman says...the sticker.

[spol11]

Thanks for the replies everyone! Definitely good feedback. I figured class 3 was better option but this solidified my choice.
I also knew that I was going to be maxed out (or very close) with supplies in camper/van but some of your info has me thinking I need to just purchase a truck with better towing capabilities sooner than later. The last thing I want to do is ruin the transmission on my wife's van in a year or two of camping.
(sorry for the cross post).

[bikendan]

spol11 wrote:
Tow vehicle: 2013 Nissan Quest SV 6 cyl.
Max tow capacity: 3500#
Torque: 240 ft/lb

RV: 2000 Trailmanor 2720 SL
Dry weight: 2875#
Payload cap: ~1210#
Hitch weight: ~392#

In the van will be my wife and two young kids.
Van dry weight: 4400#
So, vehicle weight + load/passenger = approx. 5000#

I'm looking at whether a class 2 or class 3 trailer hitch would be more appropriate. As well as whether a weight distribution hitch might be an even safer idea.

Thoughts on safety of pulling this pop up/expandable camper with my van??

the fictional dry tongue weight will already exceed the Quest's max of 350lbs, before anything is added.

that van is really only rated for popups.

[Rover_Bill]

You will be a VERY UNHAPPY camper trying to towing a 4000# trailer with a 3500# rated TV regardless of the hitch. You might get by if you stay in the flat plains states like Oklahoma, Kansas, or Nebraska. You may end up being a slow rolling traffic hazard on any hilly roads anywhere else. Don't even think of driving in the mountains.

[Grit_dog]

Welcome to the forum bud!

Many folks here will freak out at the proposed setup you're thinking about towing.
Yes class 3 hitch. Yes weight distribution absolutely, if your vehicle is rated to do that.
No need to freak out, but your vehicle is certainly at the top of it's ability to pull that camper for several reasons.
1. Extremely soft rear suspension.
2. Not meant as a tow rig, watch your temps and make sure maint is up to snuff.
3. Make sure the trailer brakes are setup well and working as designed.
4. You live in the wrong state to be towing over the wight limit with a marginal tow rig. You can't go far in any direction form SLC without real grades to pull or come down. Altitude means, if you head into the mountains, your marginal 260hp minivan is now a 200hp minivan.
Honestly, I wouldn't invest $ in the van to pull that camper unless short local trips. I would not want to hit the mountains loaded for fun with that as a tow vehicle.
Safe? yes I believe the size and weight of the van will not get man handled too bad by the trailer. As long as you have good brakes and trailer brakes and know how to drive in the mountains with a vehicle twice the weight of what it normally is.
However be prepared to put the 4 ways on up and down the big grades and taker slow.

[Oasisbob]

Class 3. Our situation is very similar and we opted for class 3. As I recall we could not find a class 2 and the numbers were the deciding factor.