TV needs shocks

[twxsby89]

We just finished our 3000 mile shakedown trip, and towards the end, the shocks on the suburban decided they were done (kids said it was like Mr. Toads wild ride).
Any recommendations on shocks for towing? I've had very good experience with Rancho 9000's (not towing), but I have been told to go with Bilstein.
What are yall using for the heavier trailers (8000-9000 lbs)
Thanks

[Cummins12V98]

N-Trouble wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:
I've had both 4600s and 5100s and prefer the 5100s for a daily driver. The 4600s felt stiffer to me.

I would recommend turning down your torsion keys. It will give a better ride both unloaded and loaded and tow level rather than nose high.

They are exactly the same other than ride height.

I understand what you have READ. I'm just sharing my REAL WORLD experience. So believe what you want...

I am just stating what Bilstein says.

[N-Trouble]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:
I've had both 4600s and 5100s and prefer the 5100s for a daily driver. The 4600s felt stiffer to me.

I would recommend turning down your torsion keys. It will give a better ride both unloaded and loaded and tow level rather than nose high.

They are exactly the same other than ride height.

I understand what you have READ. I'm just sharing my REAL WORLD experience. So believe what you want...

[Cummins12V98]

N-Trouble wrote:
I've had both 4600s and 5100s and prefer the 5100s for a daily driver. The 4600s felt stiffer to me.

I would recommend turning down your torsion keys. It will give a better ride both unloaded and loaded and tow level rather than nose high.

They are exactly the same other than ride height.

[Community Alumni]

Here's what ShockWarehouse says about the 4600 and the 5100.

Although they are different brands and may appear to be very different from each other the Bilstein 5100 and Heavy Duty actually share many of the same components and ride characteristics.

The main difference between the Bilstein Heavy Duty vs Bilstein 5100s is that the Heavy Duty or 4600 series is designed for stock height trucks and the 5100 Series is built for lifted trucks. The other major difference between the Heavy Duty and 5100 is that the Bilstein 5100 Series shocks have a zinc coating with a brushed metal shock body and a black boot while the Heavy Duty uses a painted yellow body with a blue dust boot.

The Similarities: The 5100 series and the Heavy Duty shocks use the same technology internally. Both use the same internal valving and at stock height will ride the same (shocks for lifted trucks may use different valving settings in order to accommodate the extra weight of larger tires). Both shocks are pressurized with 360 psi of nitrogen to prevent shock fade and foaming of the shock oil. The outer construction of both shocks is identical as well with an extruded metal body rather for maximum strength and top of the line seals. The 5100 series and Heavy Duty 4600 series are both covered under Bilstein's limited lifetime warranty that protects against any manufacturer defects for the life of the shock.

For stock height trucks, the Bilstein Heavy Duty yellow and blue shocks are the most popular choice, because they typically cost a few dollars less than the 5100 shocks and provide excellent performance for towing, light offroading or normal driving. Many customers do prefer the 5100 Series even on stock trucks because the shortest 5100s are typically built for 0 to 2 inches of suspension lift, meaning they can run the 5100 on their stock height truck but leave the option open for a lift later on down the road.

For leveled trucks, where the owner has either purchased an aftermarket leveling kit or turned their truck's torsion keys up, Bilstein has shocks designed specifically for a 1-3 inch leveling kit. On some trucks with coilover type front shocks, a Bilstein 5100 Leveling Shock is available that is capable of lifting the front of the vehicle up. We recommend using the 5100 rear shocks along with your front 5100s on leveled trucks because the rear 5100 shocks are usally an inch longer than stock to accommodate a small lift. In our experience, once someone gets a taste of lifting their truck, they always go back for more. If you already have the 5100 shocks on the rear, you always have that option without needing to buy new shocks when you decide to add the lift.

For lifted trucks, the Bilstein 5100 series is the only choice. With a few exceptions, all Heavy Duty shocks are designed only for use on stock height trucks. Bilstein 5100 shocks are designed for every size of lift for popular trucks, so whether your truck is a modified daily driver or an all-out offroad monster, there is a Bilstein 5100 shock to fit it.

[N-Trouble]

I've had both 4600s and 5100s and prefer the 5100s for a daily driver. The 4600s felt stiffer to me.

I would recommend turning down your torsion keys. It will give a better ride both unloaded and loaded and tow level rather than nose high.

[twxsby89]

I have after market torsion keys in the front to level the truck, which is why I choose the 5100's. I am well aware shocks do not lift, I was confused as to why it sat level with 400 lbs of water in the front fresh water tank, and then 2 weeks later, with an empty tank, it sagged. I will indeed get the trailer out, possibly this weekend, and mess around with Equalizer WD hitch. I just need to do a little more research to figure out which part I adjust first, the brackets on the TT, or on the hitch itself. There is no doubt that I need new shocks, it still bounces, without the trailer.
Thanks again for all the advise. I will post results for future newbs.

[alligato]

I did a ton of research looking for an alternate to the Billstien. I found the KYB to have good reviews at a price I was happy with. They have only been on my 2500 CTD for a month or so but it was a night and day change in ride quality.
I also think it may be in the hitch set up.

[Cummins12V98]

To clarify the 4600's are for stock height trucks and the 5100's are for stock and UP to 2" lift. They are the same exact shock other than color and the lift option. I would bet the 5100's are more money.

[bucky]

Shocks have nothing to do with ride height unless you have a 69 'Cuda with air shocks all jacked up. Springs support, shocks dampen movement.
Several people have mentioned the hitch setup, start there.

[twxsby89]

N-Trouble wrote:
I would recommend YOU learn how to work on your hitch rather than relying on some kid at s dealer. What are you going to do if your stuck on the side of the road because of a problem with your hitch? Learn how it operates and how to make adjustments if needed.

Good advice.
Bilstein 5100's will be here next week.
Thanks everybody

[GoPackGo]

I have replaced OEM shocks on various vehicles in the past but always after several years of driving the vehicle. And I was always amazed at how much better the car/truck behaved in every way, especially in rebound situations. So when I got my new F350 in May, 2013, I put Bilstein 5100s on before it was a month old. No sense in waiting. Original shocks would probably do OK for a year or two but the Bils provide so much better control and damping that I decided I didn't want to wait.

I've now been full timing for 2 years, pulling a 14k fiver all over this country and the shocks are doing dandy.

Also keep in mind they have a lifetime warranty.

[dodge_guy]

I would definitely concentrate on the hitch setup. removing that much weight from the front of the trailer (400lbs of water) will change how the WD system works. I never travel with a full fresh tank. I fill up when I get to where I`m going, only keep enough for flushing.

I`m sure the shocks are OK, considering things changed on the way home!

[N-Trouble]

twxsby89 wrote:
It does feel like it is porpoising, if that means the front of my truck goes up and down for a while after going over a dip in the road. The truck did not do this on the way out west, only on the way home. However, when we started out the trip, I had a full tank of fresh water (400 pounds in the front), and my tranny was running up to 190* on the grades. We used all the water, and only kept enough in the tank to use the restroom, and the tranny temp stayed around 160-170 on the grades.
41,000 miles on the OEM shocks, I'm sure they need to be replaced, BUT, I am not 100% confident the dealer set up my HD hitch correctly. When I left the dealer with the trailer, it sat almost level, by the end of our trip, it was sagging in the rear. I am headed back to the dealer this month for some random warranty work, I will ask about the hitch set up.

Shocks will help but it does sound like your hitch is not setup properly. I would recommend YOU learn how to work on your hitch rather than relying on some kid at s dealer. What are you going to do if your stuck on the side of the road because of a problem with your hitch? Learn how it operates and how to make adjustments if needed.

[N-Trouble]

dodge guy wrote:
A 2013 shouldn't need shocks already. I`ll bet you have an improperly set up WD hitch and you Burb is porpoising!

You would think BUT factory GM shocks are absolute **** and don't last. Two of mine were shot at 20k mi when I replaced with Bilsteins. Many others reporting the same at low mileage.

No, changing shocks does not affect warranty.