WD Hitch - Selection Questions based on TW and GVWR

[Baja_Man]

UPDATE:

Purchased toyhauler today (2009 Tahoe 284SA)!!!!

Weighed TW today...

TW dry (water/waste tanks empty, nothing stored inside or outside ot trailer....

First weigh: 1400#
Second weigh: 1500#

Average: 1450#

So, based on the 1450# TW.....what hitch is recommended?
Keep close to the 1450# TW....(ex. Equal-i-zer) or go with a higher weight rating?

Examples.....

Equal-i-zer 1400# (had two before and both worked great!)
Blue Ox.....1500# or 2000# (never had chains....reliable and sway control?)
Reese?????

Thanks!

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Getting ready to pick up a new to me toyhauler. Need to purchase a new Weight distribution/anti-sway hitch set up.

TH specs:

GVWR: 13000#
TW: 1300#
UVW: 7950#


If the TW is listed at 1300# (per specs), it is using a 10% formula. I don't know for sure if this is the actual weight without taking it to a scale. Since I do not have a hitch to take it to a scale, this is not possible.

On my last TT it had a TW of 1200#. I purchased a 1400# Equal-I-Zer hitch and it worked great!

Questions:

If TW is between 800#-1700# (unloaded to fully loaded-10-13%), is it wise to get a WD hitch system on the high weight end of 1700#? I am concerned that if TW is much less than this (ex. unloaded) there could be a problem.....what could the problem be? Ex...too much hitch rating vs too little hitch rating.

Also, should ball height on truck (for shank selection) be measured at trailer ball coupler height at rest....OR....after TW has been applied to truck ball?

Ex. If Trailer coupler ball height is 21" at rest, should my truck's ball height ball height be the same 21"? If so, once TW is applied, truck rear axle will drop once weight is applied and trailer will no longer be level.


Thanks!

[BarneyS]

Your tongue weight will be the most when the trailer is empty of toys. When you put the toys in the rear, it reduces the tongue weight.

I would purchase a WD hitch that is rated for the heaviest weight the tongue will see which would be unloaded. You do not want one rated for under that weight because you will probably not tow it all the time with the toys in the rear.

I think I would purchase a WD hitch with a max rating of 2000lbs tongue weight. Your trailer A frame should be rated for at least that amount since toy haulers have heavy tongue weights. Also make sure the ball you use is rated for the amount of weight you will be towing.

When setting up your hitch, I would put the ball about 1inch above the trailer coupler. If that amount results in a trailer nose high condition then lower it to the next hole down on the shank. Make sure your shank allows you some movement up or down when you decide on a length of rise or fall. It is better to have it too long rather than not long enough.
Remember, you level the trailer via the position of the hitch on the shank - not by adjusting the WD bars.

If you decide to purchase a tongue weight scale, I would get one rated up to 2000lbs.
Hope this helps a bit. 🙂
Barney

[Baja_Man]

I guess I could purchase a tongue scale to verify TW prior to purchasing a WD st up. If I did, what weight range would be best for this application as well as for future uses?

[Baja_Man]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Where did you get the 'tongue weight' ??

Published weights for tongue/pin weights are for DRY weight based on UVW weights

1300/TW is 16.3% of the UVW 7950#

I took it from the 2008 brochure (see link - can't find a 2009). I also saw these same specs on a pic posted by seller (see attached).

Thoughts?

2008 Tahoe 284SA Specs


Click For Full-Size Image.

[Old-Biscuit]

Where did you get the 'tongue weight' ??

Published weights for tongue/pin weights are for DRY weight based on UVW weights

1300/TW is 16.3% of the UVW 7950#