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WDH set up help needed

Chaos
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, I've read the stickies, multiple times.

I have a Reese hitch. My vehicle instructions say to return the front bumper to unhitched height.

Unhitched measurements: front bumper 17 7/8
Front wheel well 35 1/2
Rear wheel well 37 5/8

Trailer frame height 24 3/4

I initially put the head one hole up from the bottom of the shank with the head tilted all the way forward. On eight links, I get the following measurements:
Front bumper 18 1/16
Front wheel well 35 1/2
Rear wheel well 36 3/4
Front trailer frame height 25 3/8

The TV measurements look good to me but the trailer is too high in front by 5/8 or so. If I drop the head to the bottom hole, then I don't have enough tilt adjustment to get the ends of the spring bars to the correct height according to the hitch instructions. So now what?
22 REPLIES 22

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
The OP is bit ahead in the process

Need or suggest to understand the 'goal' of it all...including weights vs ratings

Decide if you believe in the ratings or not

If not, then do whatever but note that over the ratings may have warranty denied...if
they find out

If yes, then go out and weigh the whole setup. Axle by Axle both fully loaded
and empty

Read up on the HOW2's and understand them

The OP is adjusting without knowing where they are in reference to their ratings
and unknown to us is the orientation of the setup

I like to have the trailer level at it's highest pointing and preference to
have it pointing slightly down

Moving the shank/head without knowing the orientation is useless

Tilting the head is a ditto and note that tilting the head is to gain more
WD spring bar (either round or trunnion) distance to increase their preload
Tilting it back towards the trailer is the right way. Tilting it forward removes
WD spring bar preload potential

The height of the shank/head is determined by the final orientation of the
trailer and the TV

The front end height as instructed by the manual is out of context without
knowing the weights, the spring bar ratings, etc

OP, please post these ratings and actual weights: front GAWR/GWR, rear GAWR/GWR,
GVWR and the actual weight of the trailer. The trailer dry weight is not helpful,
but it does provide a range of the tongue weight vs the actual weight
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

WyoTraveler
Explorer
Explorer
The height of the ball is determined by level tongue height. If I recall Reese adds a small amount to that measurement. There is a chart in the Reese instructions for tilt. Measurement of end of trunion to ground depending on height of ball. Then when you connect TT & secure hitch raise the tongue with jack about a foot. Then connect trunion bars. Makes connecting much easier. Make minor adjustments as necessary to make your vehicle level. I had a Reese dual cam with the trunion bars. Also make sure you have the correct weight trunion bars depending on tongue weight.

Chaos
Explorer
Explorer
Ron Gratz wrote:
Chaos wrote:
---If I drop the head to the bottom hole, then I don't have enough tilt adjustment to get the ends of the spring bars to the correct height according to the hitch instructions. So now what?
What do you mean by "get the ends of the spring bars to the correct height"?

What brand and model of WDH do you have?

Ron


Reese trunnion bar.

I am to set the tilt on the head by raising the ends if the bars to 9.5 inches from the ground. This is before connecting to the trailer.

Chaos
Explorer
Explorer
I have another hole I can drop on my current shank. I am out of tilt on the head. Reese says my spring bar ends should be 9.5 inches from the ground. If I drop down to the bottom hole, I can not get 9.5 inches of clearance.

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
Chaos wrote:
---If I drop the head to the bottom hole, then I don't have enough tilt adjustment to get the ends of the spring bars to the correct height according to the hitch instructions. So now what?
What do you mean by "get the ends of the spring bars to the correct height"?

What brand and model of WDH do you have?

Ron

steeleshark
Explorer
Explorer
Get a longer shank that has more holes to drop the tongue lower is about the only other thing to do.
2011 Nissan Armada SL w/Tow Package
2012 Coachmen Freedom Express (292BHDS) Liberty Edition

WyoTraveler
Explorer
Explorer
Once my trailer was hitched I used the tongue jack & raised the rear of the truck making it easier to connect the bars. If I recall Reese adds an inch of height to ball height. Then there is a tilt measurement without the trailer connected. Distance of the bars from the ground. After initial adjustment then make final with trailer connected.

Chaos
Explorer
Explorer
Oh, I forgot to say I tried tilting the head back to see if that would lower the trailer. Instead our had the opposite effect, with the following measurements:
Front bumper 17 7/8
Front wheel well 35 1/4
Rear wheel well 36 3/4
Trailer frame 25.5