Winterizing again ... more questions??

[DutchmenSport]

New Montana, I just winterized the water lines. Heading for Lousiana in a week so will unwinterize again once there and then winterize again when returning home a week later.

Meanwhile, I checked with the local dealership in my area that sells Keystone trailers and 5er, (not the dealer I purchased from) and got an answer I'm not comfortable with. So, I used my own best judgment, and winterized the sure-fire method, because I just don't get it.

Can someone explain?

The water heater is rear of the axles. The valve switches and water hook-ups are in the front of the 5er in the wet bay area.

The water heater by-pass valve is up front. The water heater itself is in the back.

There are low point drains in the wet bay area with valves.

In normal position, when turning on the hot water low point, hot water flows. If you flip the valve to water heater by-pass, it takes a nano-second and the water is instantly cold. Quite obvious the actual valve is right behind that wall.

So, when winterizing, you flip the winterize valve so the hose input will suck the pink stuff and the water pump stops pumping from the fresh water tank. The water heater by-pass is flipped on right behind that wall, the valve flips and antifreeze does not go to the water heater. Water heater is successfully by passed, no antifreeze goes to the water heater. After all, that's what "bypass" is suppose to do.

However, I just don't get it! The line from that valve to the water heater has to be a good 25 or 30 feet. No pink-stuff goes into that line, it's bypassed at the valve at the front of the trailer.

So... I don't get it? Is there still water in that line from the front of the camper to the water heater? When the water heater is drained, does gravity drain that line also? I don't believe that, there are too many high spots and low spots in the plumbing that I've seen.

When I asked the guy at the dealership, they said when they winterize the camper, they flip the water heater bypass and that's it. They said they've never had anyone ever come back with broken or frozen lines running to the water heater. Yet, there is NEVER any pink stuff pumped though that line.

So, I wondered if there was an actual by-pass at the water heater in the camper. So, I went ahead and tore into the closet, removed the flooring and got a good view of the water heater. No by-pass valves there. The only by-pass is at that valve at the front of the camper.

Uncomfortable with this situation, I went ahead and drained the water heater completely. I flipped the water heater bypass on and winterized all the lines, hot and cold, toilet, refrigerator ice maker, laundry hook-ups, outside shower, toilet and low point drains.

The water heater anode rod plug was still out, and completely done dripping by now. I slowly turned that water heater by-pass valve and let the pink pump to the water heater. I watched under the trailer and sure enough ... clear water started flowing from the water heater, and then it started turning pink.

I know, I now have pink stuff in the line that runs to the water heater, and it will have to be flushed out in a week, like all the other lines. That means I'll have pink stuff in my water heater. Flushing is no problem.

But I am still concerned and still bewildered about this? Once the valve is in by-pass, there is still regular water in that line from the water city water connection or from the water pump all the way to the water heater. Doesn't that line have the potential to freeze up also?

And I missing someting? I don't get it. Or did I do it right? Bypass will keep from adding 12 gallons water to the water heater tank, but take it off by-pass to get pink-stuff in the line running to the water heater?

Thoughts? Ideas? This sure isn't like my previous simple travel trailer with 1 valve right at the water heater?

[rhagfo]

guidry wrote:
Winterize with air compressor and you’d solve all. No pink in tank, no paying dealer and less using antifreeze. Much easier and less expensive.

X2
Drain the HW tank by removing the anode rod and opening the relief valve to drain the tank. Then close the valve and replace the anode, then with the by-pass in NORMAL position blow the hot water system. This would be one hot water faucet open, and blow for about a couple minutes, then place the by-pass valve in BY-PASS. Then drain the HW tank once more, now the lines and tank are clear of most water.

[guidry]

Winterize with air compressor and you’d solve all. No pink in tank, no paying dealer and less using antifreeze. Much easier and less expensive.

[downtheroad]

Dutchman, I have to think a little about your question....but I will say that the manufacturer of your new rig did step up with a little bit of extra quality.

I see that they used a PEX "bend support" instead of just bending the pipe and jamming it into the connections....

[2edgesword]

I would have to go along with the dealer. That being the case it would mean that when you open the low point drains and remove the water heater drain plug, and allow both to drain, that is going to remove all or most of the water in the water line you are concerned with. Any residual water even if it freezes is not going to build pressure against the water line and do damage. Of course if you want to give yourself 100% peace of mind you can blow out the lines prior to using the bypass so you're not filling the water heater tank with gallons of anti-freeze.