Wore out hitch

[campigloo]

This is different. I have a class IV hitch. The holes in the receiver tube have “wallered out” where the pin inserts to hold the stinger in. Anyone heard of a fix other than total replacement? My first thought is welding on new holes.

[dodge_guy]

deltabravo wrote:
Once you fix the hole, don't use the angle hitch pin if that's what you have been using. Use a straight hitch pin.

As I stated the wear isn't just from the angled pins but from the soft metal in the hitch and the way the drawbar rests in the tube. after a while it finds its relaxed position and wont wear anymore. my Curt hitch doesn't have any wear and I`m using the same pin I did with the factory receiver that had the worn out hitch pun hole. I replaced the receiver due to rust not the wear in the pin hole.

[deltabravo]

Once you fix the hole, don't use the angle hitch pin if that's what you have been using. Use a straight hitch pin.

[Grit_dog]

Another option, if it’s a receiver on a relatively popular vehicle, is buy another OE hitch. Craigslist or junkyard. Been a while but I’ve had luck finding them that way and they’re almost worthless so will be cheap to purchase. I’ve actually tossed a couple new hitch receivers in the garbage because no one would buy them for $50. In the last 25 years, it is rare that a full size truck or suv doesn’t come with a receiver so the market is not there.
Takeoff hitch = cheap + time to swap, typically with hand tools. Some trucks you have to lift the bed up a bit though.
Weld reinforced plate is cheap if you have a welder and can weld but a 5/8 drill bit isn’t.
Drill larger hole = easy, if it lines up afterwards and you don’t break your wrist and you have a 1/2” drive drill. And that only works if you have. Tube hitch. Solid draw bar will not drill out easily.
5/8-3/4 “ bits are $50 or more

Typically this problem is more of just an annoyance. A lot of trucks with wallered out pins

[Bedlam]

On my Ford receiver, I welded 3/8” plate on each side of the receiver tube and drilled it for the pin. On my Torklift receivers, the hole is built up by design to reduce egging.

[valhalla360]

Are you just nervous about the appearance or is it clunking every time you hit the brakes?
- If it's just the appearance, don't worry about it.
- If it's bad enough that it's clunking around, you could weld a plate across it, ream out the hole for a bigger pin, or just do a new hole a couple inches away. But unless you are doing extreme miles with really heavy trailer, I might look to see what is the source of the issue.

[Turtle_n_Peeps]

Just weld a "hardened" washer to both sides. Done.

[azrving]

Drill it out for a larger pin then drill the end of the pin for a small padlock. It will keep someone from walking off with it vs just having a clip pin.

There are various devices that take up receiver slack.

Another

[dodge_guy]

You can weld it up but for the price of a new hitch it isn’t worth it. People will say it’s from the bent end of the pin, but what it is from is the weight of the hitch pushing up/down on the pin. Both sides were worn on mine but the pin only goes in from the left. So much for that theory.

If it’s not that bad I wouldn’t worry about it.