110v Outlets from Extension Cord

[SkiSmuggs]

I plan to install a hard-wired PSW inverter and run one extension cord to my entertainment center and another to a cabinet in the bedroom. I want it to look like a regular outlet by plugging the extension into the back of the outlet inside the cabinets and having a single or dual outlet plate on the outside of the cabinet. I don't just want a hole with an extension cord hanging out. This should be similar to what you use to bring a 20a cord from the electric pedestal into your RV to use for a heater, but without any weather proofing. I've tried googling, but not sure what words to search with.

[SkiSmuggs]

stevenal wrote:

SkiSmuggs wrote:

Sounds interesting. Do you have a link or picture of said inlet? I don't believe that I've seen one.
Something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5239-Receptacle-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B00004YUKT

SkiSmugs,

That's the right idea, but you need one that will mount to an electrical box. Try Power Inlet.

This looks like it should do the job. Thanks!
Wow, this is a rare item and almost exclusive to Office Depot.

[landyacht318]

I have one 120vAC outlet I wired with a 12awg powertool cord replacement. I plug it into my powerstrip, or to my inverter, but mines not a factory RV.

I have used this product on a portable power pack project, but at 100 Lbs, portable is subjective

[stevenal]

jake2250 wrote:
Reading thru the RVIA Standards, It does not address "temporary" accessories!
IE: portable Inverters! Reading the user manual for the Inverter itself it states if an extension is used it must be of sufficient size to adequately handle the voltage/amperage. So in theory, I have wired it into the 12v supply (following user manual direction) and using an approved extension cord. Don't see the big worry here!! Its all fused and breakerd. Even an RVIA inspection wouldn't detect any code violation! No Harm No Foul!!

It is true that portable extension cords are allowed for temporary use. Sounds like you have a more permanent installation. Plus your listed and approved extension cord is no longer approved after you've removed one end or otherwise altered it.

[stevenal]

SkiSmuggs wrote:

Sounds interesting. Do you have a link or picture of said inlet? I don't believe that I've seen one.
Something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5239-Receptacle-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B00004YUKT

SkiSmugs,

That's the right idea, but you need one that will mount to an electrical box. Try Power Inlet.

[jake2250]

Reading thru the RVIA Standards, It does not address "temporary" accessories!
IE: portable Inverters! Reading the user manual for the Inverter itself it states if an extension is used it must be of sufficient size to adequately handle the voltage/amperage. So in theory, I have wired it into the 12v supply (following user manual direction) and using an approved extension cord. Don't see the big worry here!! Its all fused and breakerd. Even an RVIA inspection wouldn't detect any code violation! No Harm No Foul!!

[LarryJM]

Bobbo wrote:
If I am reading right, this is nothing but a multi outlet extension cord. Kind of like this commercial one, but with a box and duplex at the end:



If so, nothing to worry about. Unplug it and, electrically, it doesn't exist.

Exactly, no code issues for electrical "extensions" that have a plug on the end. It's just a more secure and permanent "extension cord"

I used the wiremold surface mount electrical boxes when I installed my second 30A service and redid my bedroom entertainment connections.



Larry

[SkiSmuggs]

stevenal wrote:
Why violate code when you don't need to. Using cord in place of romex is not allowed. Putting a cord end on romex is likewise not allowed. Suggest: Run a short extension cord from inverter to an installed inlet (mounts like a receptacle, but male). Romex from inlet to receptacle. Clean, safe, and code compliant.

Sounds interesting. Do you have a link or picture of said inlet? I don't believe that I've seen one.
Something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5239-Receptacle-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B00004YUKT

[SkiSmuggs]

westend wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
I do agree with "Why not run Romex"
But.. No reason other than the code you can't cut the end off a proper extension cord and wire on an outlet.. I suggest the outlet be a differnet color, RED or Orange, to indicate INVERTER power instead of the standard color, that is all.

The most elegant way of doing what the OP frames is to use a small transfer switch, wire directly to load center, and use the same receptacles as original. As to cost, the $60 transfer switch is probably going to be less than the installation of wire, receptacles, and boxes needed in the other manner.

Good idea, but the inverter is at the batteries in the front compartment and the load center is at the rear of the fiver under the oven.

[Bobbo]

If I am reading right, this is nothing but a multi outlet extension cord. Kind of like this commercial one, but with a box and duplex at the end:



If so, nothing to worry about. Unplug it and, electrically, it doesn't exist.

[jake2250]

Thanks for the link,, Makes for good reading! Well this works for me now, Guess I will remove when time comes to sell.

[stevenal]

ANSI accredited RVIA standards. RVIA

[jake2250]

SoundGuy wrote:

jake2250 wrote:
... and ran a six foot extension cord to the outlet, I cut the female side of the plug off and wired into the top receptacle of the outlet, I then cut the metal strips on both sides of the outlet plug that makes both top and bottom outlet recepticle hot.

Works pretty slick and looks clean!

Yeah, "slick & clean" ... and without doubt a blatant code violation. :E

Oh well, who's to know. :R

Probably so, but I am using a 12 gauge three wire cord, the only modification is to the female end,and all I did was make that end stationary by using the outlet.
Also, with that type of inverter, I have no way to hard wire out of it, it had two female 110 plugs, I would have to hack the inverter to hard wire it.
The way I see it is, I am using it in accordance with its directions. No difference than plugging it in to a 12v cigarette outlet and plugging the tv into it?
Matter of fact, it appears as though the extension cord has more insulation on it then the romex? And I am running way under the cords rated wattage? And what code would I follow UBC (Uniform Building
Code) UFC (Uniform Fire Code)? It has a license plate so it would fall under the MVC..

[westend]

wa8yxm wrote:
I do agree with "Why not run Romex"
But.. No reason other than the code you can't cut the end off a proper extension cord and wire on an outlet.. I suggest the outlet be a differnet color, RED or Orange, to indicate INVERTER power instead of the standard color, that is all.

I used these Hubbell I.G. receptacles for inverter powered receptacles. Pricy, but I had a few around, bought at clearance at the time. No mixing up the two different power sources.

The most elegant way of doing what the OP frames is to use a small transfer switch, wire directly to load center, and use the same receptacles as original. As to cost, the $60 transfer switch is probably going to be less than the installation of wire, receptacles, and boxes needed in the other manner.

[DrewE]

SoundGuy wrote:

joebedford wrote:
I cut the socket end off the extension cord and wired it directly to a domestic receptacle.

Wouldn't meet code but hey, who's to know? :W

That said, for connecting stranded wire to a standard home duplex receptacle with screw terminals designed to be wired using solid wire I'd first terminate the neutral & hot wires with ring terminals for a more positive connection. Unfortunately the speed receptacles commonly used in recreational vehicles have no screw terminals and should only be wired using solid wire cable.

UL listed outlets with screw terminals and screwed clamps are (at least in the vast majority of cases) listed for use with stranded wire, and stranded wire is acceptable and listed for household wiring. It's most commonly used in conduit work; pulling solid wire through conduit is usually not practical, and using Romex doubly so because it generally forces one to use larger conduit than otherwise to achieve acceptable fill ratios etc.