3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

[professor95]

professor95 wrote:
EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here.

In the eight year run of this thread we have amassed almost 10,000 postings and surpassed a million views. This creates somewhat of a dilemma for anyone who has just discovered the forum.

Since the amount of information is virtually overwhelming, I suggest you set your preferences for this thread to read "newest first" and then begin to page backwards.

What you will find in these pages is a wealth of info on virtually any make or model of Chinese manufactured synchronous (non-inverter) generator in the 3,000 watt performance class. Info will include how to rewire series coils to parallel to obtain maximum wattage from a single 120 volt outlet. Tips on further reducing sound levels, how to care for these generators, which ones are "RV ready" and provide the best overall performance for the dollar invested. Which companies NOT to deal with, where the best prices are, how to safely wire the generator into a home or RV, how to check your RV for electrical faults, sources for generator accessories, which 20/30 adapters are safe to use and which are not. How to convert a gasoline generator to propane or NG. This is only the beginning. The forum has a life of its own with the focus sub-topic switching frequently. Still, the main topic of utilizing the amazing, inexpensive Chinese gensets is always there. The amount of creativity and innovation presented in these pages is indicative of the talents shared in the diverse backgrounds of the folks who make up our combined RV community.

Many of the original brands and models of Chinese gensets mentioned in the introduction and early pages of the thread have since disappeared. New EPA and CARB emissions requirements, company bonds assuring the emissions warranty will be honored even if the company goes out of business, and fierce competition in the industry have changed the playing field. Champion Power Equipment has become the apparent "trophy team" providing an ever expanding retail outlet, an ample parts supply, a strong warranty and excellent customer service. CPE has continued to improve their product and now offers a new model (#46538) with exclusive convenience, safety and performance features aimed at the RV market. Big names like Cummins/Onan, Honda and Generac all now have Chinese built open frame synchronous gensets available. Ironically, the prices often found on these gensets has not significantly changed during the past eight years - even with the devaluation of the American Dollar and new EPA/CARB requirements.

I also encourage you to use the search function and even the advanced search options to find information. Key works such as "rewiring", "PowerPro", "Champion", "Onan Homesite", "Duropower", "ETQ", "Jiung Dong or JD", "Tractor Supply", "Costco", "Lowe's" and "Home Depot" are all examples of keywords that will give you specific information on different models being sold by retailers today.

Or, you can fill your glass with your favorite beverage (keep more close by - maybe some munchies as well :D, sit back at your computer, tell your wife (or significant other) that you will see her in the morning and spend the next 10 or so hours reading through the postings.

No one on the forum gets mad if you ask a question that is a repeat. Please do not hesitate to post to the forum. All questions are considered important and those active on the forum will do their best to respond with a valid answer.

Also note we are not out to knock the Honda, Yamaha, Kipor or other brands of high end digital gensets. We recognize the quality of these products and their suitability for quite, efficient RV use. But, there is a flood of reliable, inexpensive and comparatively lower cost gensets coming out of China that are excellent alternative choices for the RVer wanting power to run an air conditioner, microwave, etc. without excessive noise or breaking the budget.

Oh, one last thing. The folks on this forum are true gentlemen. We do not flame one another or the product discussed - period. Ugly contributors usually have their comments and remarks ignored by our masses. It is not a forum to start arguments to obtain a clear win. We do disagree on many issues, but we have all agreed to do that in a respectable manner.

We now have the introduction of more and more inverter gensets. There is a rather extensive thread named "The Official Unofficial Champion 2000i Generator" on this forum. Today, I added info on the new Champion 3100i inverter genset. Discussion on this product may get moved to its own thread at a later date.

Many have looked upon this thread with distain saying Chinese is cheap and doomed to failure. I remember saying exactly the same thing about Japanese products a few decades back. But, over the past eight years the track record for Chinese built generators has shown otherwise.

Please, join us in a fascinating journey down the Chinese built genset road of knowledge.

This is the question I posted that got it all started back in March 2005.......

Randy

For a little over a month now, I have been somewhat intrigued by the availability of a 3000 watt, 6.5 HP generator at Pep Boys and Northern Tool for under $300.00. The engine on this generator looks identical to a Honda 6.5 HP OHV engine. Knowing that the Chinese have become very adept at “cloning” reputable technologies from other manufacturers, I was not surprised at the similarities. Neither store could give me any information on the generator nor did they have a “running” display model.

I have done a little research. This is what I have discovered:

Many of these generators are imported by ELIM International (www.eliminternational.com) out of Buffalo, New York from Jiung Manufacturing in China. (The unit at Northern is identical but carries the JIUNG name.)

The engines are indeed a Chinese knockoff of the popular 6.5 HP 196cc Honda Engine. “Supposedly” Honda has licensed the engine technology to the Chinese manufacturer of the product.

The Chinese company that makes the ELM3000 generators is a rather large, diverse, long-standing company with a reputation for “above average quality” Chinese made products (Jiung Manufacturing). There are many more Chinese companies making almost identical gensets.

The generators at PepBoys do have a six month limited warranty. But, it is only on the engine (not the generator) and requires paying for shipping to and from Buffalo. Probably not a very practical thing to do if you have warranty issues.

ELIM does supply replacement parts (a PDF parts manual is available on the ELIM web site). No prices are given for replacement parts nor is there an “availability listing”.

The generator head itself is a brushless design. The only really significant wear parts in the generator are the bearings – most likely universally available.

The published dB rating is 67 at 23 feet. This is “reasonably” quite for a generator of this size as most comparabl.... The 67 dB rating is the same as Honda gives their 3000 watt CycloInverter with a “look alike” eng...

[Old___Slow]

skyzoomer wrote:

toprudder wrote:
The digital display is the feature I really like. If AC power is not an option, I understand why you would want the battery-only units.

I bought the AC powered battery-backed unit for my camper. I experimented with running 12v dc to the internal battery connection, and it worked very well, so I mounted the unit permanently and ran 12v dc to it, no AC. It uses less than 10ma of current, which is negligible. When I am running the generator, I can press the "peak" button and it will show me the max level of CO since I last reset it. This way I can instantly tell if I have a CO problem, long before the alarm will go off.

Oh, a link where you can buy. I did a quick search:

http://www.target.com/gp/search.html/602-4470063-3814256?field-keywords=kidde_900_0076&AFID=yahoocom...

Bob R.

Bob R.,

Thanks for the additional info and the link.

While researching placement of CO alarms, there was one web site that warned against testing a CO alarm near a car's exhaust. It said that doing that could damage the sensitive CO detection. Glad I found that tiny tidbit since I planned to test the CO alarms I get that way. A company sells canned carbon monoxide that is safe to use for testing the CO detection. Maybe this might help others from testing near a car's exhaust.

Decided to definitely go with the plan to put our generator in our carport and setup an exhaust pipe going 3 feet above the roof height. Will permanently install solid exhaust pipe for the vertical part and run flexible exhaust pipe from the generator to the vertical only when in use. No idea yet on how to attach the flexible exhaust pipe to the Champion C46540's muffler. Looks like some major head scratching ahead.

Thanks,
Skyzoomer

Maybe I can help. Just completed relocating the muffler and extending the muffler tail pipe on my C46540. Buy a 3/4" floor flange a HD. Use the silver plate that fits over the screen insert as a template, drill holes to match, you can also have a machine shop due the final shaping. You can then go with 3/4" couplings and pipe as needed. This all came to me from our Mrwizard.

O&S

Ps RTV from Auto Parts Stores for Gasket.

[skyzoomer]

toprudder wrote:
The digital display is the feature I really like. If AC power is not an option, I understand why you would want the battery-only units.

I bought the AC powered battery-backed unit for my camper. I experimented with running 12v dc to the internal battery connection, and it worked very well, so I mounted the unit permanently and ran 12v dc to it, no AC. It uses less than 10ma of current, which is negligible. When I am running the generator, I can press the "peak" button and it will show me the max level of CO since I last reset it. This way I can instantly tell if I have a CO problem, long before the alarm will go off.

Oh, a link where you can buy. I did a quick search:

http://www.target.com/gp/search.html/602-4470063-3814256?field-keywords=kidde_900_0076&AFID=yahoocom...

Bob R.

Bob R.,

Thanks for the additional info and the link.

While researching placement of CO alarms, there was one web site that warned against testing a CO alarm near a car's exhaust. It said that doing that could damage the sensitive CO detection. Glad I found that tiny tidbit since I planned to test the CO alarms I get that way. A company sells canned carbon monoxide that is safe to use for testing the CO detection. Maybe this might help others from testing near a car's exhaust.

Decided to definitely go with the plan to put our generator in our carport and setup an exhaust pipe going 3 feet above the roof height. Will permanently install solid exhaust pipe for the vertical part and run flexible exhaust pipe from the generator to the vertical only when in use. No idea yet on how to attach the flexible exhaust pipe to the Champion C46540's muffler. Looks like some major head scratching ahead.

Thanks,
Skyzoomer

[TKMJ]

Toprudder,

I know the name from the old AOPA chat. Are you one in the same? Do you fly? Do you know the screen name abagator or shipoke? Just wondering.

Ken

[toprudder]

skyzoomer wrote:
No digital display, 85 db alarm plus voice to tell what it detected. This is a battery only unit but that will make it easier to install it at crutial points on the ceilings.

The digital display is the feature I really like. If AC power is not an option, I understand why you would want the battery-only units.

I bought the AC powered battery-backed unit for my camper. I experimented with running 12v dc to the internal battery connection, and it worked very well, so I mounted the unit permanently and ran 12v dc to it, no AC. It uses less than 10ma of current, which is negligible. When I am running the generator, I can press the "peak" button and it will show me the max level of CO since I last reset it. This way I can instantly tell if I have a CO problem, long before the alarm will go off.

Oh, a link where you can buy. I did a quick search:

http://www.target.com/gp/search.html/602-4470063-3814256?field-keywords=kidde_900_0076&AFID=yahoocom...

Bob R.

[skyzoomer]

Bob R,

Thanks for your heads up on getting a CO alarm. I will definitely do that. I see a Kiddie combo Carbon Monoxide/Smoke Alarm # 900-0102 for $34.99 w/ free shipping at amazon. We need to replace our old smoke alarms in our house anyway so I'll buy three of those which will give us CO alarms too.

No digital display, 85 db alarm plus voice to tell what it detected. This is a battery only unit but that will make it easier to install it at crutial points on the ceilings.

Thanks,
Skyzoomer

[skyzoomer]

To Professor95 or anyone else who has run an exhaust pipe from their generator,

If you feel the exhaust pipe after your generator has been running a while, what is the distance from the generator that you can hold your hand on the pipe without burning? I hope to transition from metal to PVC for my exhaust pipe using your info.

Thanks,
Skyzoomer

[Old___Slow]

toprudder wrote:
CO is always a concern with internal combustion engines. Doesn't matter if it is propane or gasoline. ALWAYS have a CO detector in a camper, even if you don't use a generator yourself. Your next door neighbor at the campground can run a generator and the fumes drift your way.

Most CO detectors, IMHO, are inadequate. I have a Nighthawk model from Kidde that I permanently wired into my camper. It will alarm at the usual level, but it also displays the CO level, and will show the peak value since the last time it was reset, even when these levels are below the level that will trigger the audible alarm. Very useful to know if there is CO intrusion before it reaches the alarm level.

http://www.kidde.com/utcfs/ws-384/Assets/900-0076%20Sheet.pdf

Bob R.

toprudder:

Thanks pal, This thread, well what can I say more, its there to meet any need for the BEST INFO' concerning genset use.

I want this Nighthawk ASAP. Will you give a link for supply? I'm 73 with a limited number of remaining days but my wife is younger (and prettier) she needs to be around for many years to come. Mr. Paul Cole mentioned to me to please get a CO detector before use of my genny in my MH. Professor95 says use GFIs and now you remind us to have a CO detector..........Saviors all!

Floyd
O&S

[skyzoomer]

TKMJ wrote:
...snip... P.S. I almost forgot. Forget the garden hose thing. All it will do for you is keep the natural heat of the cord inside the hose. Heat in your cords can be your worst nightmare. Keep them cool by allowing the natural wind to help take away the heat. Don't coop them up. It will cause more problems in the long run. Besides, cords are designed to run free. NEC states that it is unsafe to run a cord thru and means of conduit. Whoever gave you this idea is a fool!

Again very good info Ken. The garden hose thing is forgotten!
Skyzoomer

[toprudder]

CO is always a concern with internal combustion engines. Doesn't matter if it is propane or gasoline. ALWAYS have a CO detector in a camper, even if you don't use a generator yourself. Your next door neighbor at the campground can run a generator and the fumes drift your way.

Most CO detectors, IMHO, are inadequate. I have a Nighthawk model from Kidde that I permanently wired into my camper. It will alarm at the usual level, but it also displays the CO level, and will show the peak value since the last time it was reset, even when these levels are below the level that will trigger the audible alarm. Very useful to know if there is CO intrusion before it reaches the alarm level.

http://www.kidde.com/utcfs/ws-384/Assets/900-0076%20Sheet.pdf

Bob R.

[Old___Slow]

Oldfordman wrote:

jimmyfred wrote:

skyzoomer wrote:
This is an amazing thread with amazing contributors. Have learned so much and have only read less than half of the posts but intend to read every post as time permits. Did happen to jump from page 56 to page 200 where posts on the Champion C46540 started.

I don't own a RV but bought a Champion C46540 to power our home during power failures via a transfer switch. I have some questions and would appreciate some help setting it up.

=====

INTENDED CONFIGURATION:

1. Connect the RV connector to a Gen-Tran 30116V, 6 circuit transfer switch which has a L5-30, 3 prong male connector.

2. The optimum cable length is 30 feet. 25 feet is a tad tight.

=====

LOAD:
I intend to reserve wattage as follows:

1. Have 2 refrigerators so plan to alternate running them. Only one will be powered at a time.
a) Figure about 700 running watts with 2100 starting watts.
b) Generator has 4000 peak watts. So 4000 watts - 2100 watts = 1900 watts to run other stuff.

2. Tabletop portable range. Burner-1 = 1000 watts, Burner-2 = 500 watts. Kitchen lights = 150 watts. So total load while cooking = 1650 watts.

3. When not using tabletop range, might use 1200 watt microwave.

4. When not cooking, the 1900 watts would be used for various lights in home.

=====

QUESTIONS:

1. Will a 30 foot, 30 amp, 10-3 RV power cord be OK or will it run warm? Should I consider a 30 foot cord using #8 wire instead?

2. Where can I buy a TT30P RV plug connector if I make a 30 foot, 8-3 power cord? I've googled but have not been able to find the RV male connector alone anyplace.

3. Is my method of subtracting 2100 watts for the refrigerator from the 4000 watts peak to have 1900 remaining useable watts valid?

4. While sleeping, could both refigerators be running without overloading the C46540? All other circuits would be switched off.

5. Anyone with experience using the Gen-Tran 30116V transfer switch? Recommended?

Thanks,
Skyzoomer

...........1)Yes , 10-3 is plenty big...
...........2)Wal-Mart sells a 30 am RV plug
...........3)I would figure 3500 total available for a total wattage available number . If , one fridge is running at 700 watts , then the add'tl 2100 should be readily available to start the other fridge . Just as long as they both don't start simultaneously .
...........4)Yes....
...........5)No experience here ... , jf

One overlooked fact here is the distance from the house the genset will be running. Most SAFETY recommendations call for a greater distance than the 25-30 feet of cord you are referring to. Some recent pamphlets have suggested a minimum of 50' from a residence for a gasoline generator.

You indicate that you plan on running the generator while sleeping to keep the refer's going. Be very carefull that you are not having Carbon Monoxide infiltrating your sleeping area. Numerous deaths were attributed to running generators here in the NW during last falls power outages. While it may be a common practice to run Generators near RV's there is usually a great deal more air circulation around RV's than their may be in a fenced yard.

For myself, I have an underground line that allows me to feed my transfer switch while running the generator 100 feet from the house. The wire size is #6 so I am not worried about voltage drop, or CO for that matter. The line is also dual purpose. With some switching, it also becomes a power line to the RV when power is on and I'm not using it for a Generator connection.

Oldfordman:

You are always so interesting.

On the issue of CO. What is your thought about factory installed gennys? Will using propane help?

O&S

[skyzoomer]

TKMJ wrote:
I can't tell you about the exhaust because that is not my field of expertise however, You do need to look at the properties of the cable you are going to use. ...snip

Wow Ken, that is exactly the kind of info I needed to buy the outdoor cable. Very through and informative. Thanks!

Regarding exhausting the generator over the roof, I researched venting furnaces and chimneys and came up with this:

"Minimum chimney height above the roof – The top of a chimney should be high enough to be above the air turbulence caused when wind blows against the house and its roof. The chimney must extend at least 1 m (3 ft.) above the highest point of contact with the roof, and at least 60 cm (2 ft.) higher than any roof line or obstacle within a horizontal distance of 3 m (10 ft.)."

So if I follow this guideline for my generator exhaust height above the roof, it should be safe for exhausting the carbon monoxide.

[TKMJ]

skyzoomer wrote:
3. If I run it in the back yard, the total cable length will be about 100 feet (37 feet from transfer switch to back of house and 63 feet away from the house). What kind of cable do folks use when laying the cable on the ground outdoors? I also read someplace about putting cable in a garden hose but can 8-3 or 6-3 cable fit in a garden hose? Any comments on doing the garden hose trick?

I think option-1 (exhaust pipe) would be the best for my situation if it can guarantee that no fumes will get into our home. Heat rises so I think it would be fool proof. What do you folks think?

I can't tell you about the exhaust because that is not my field of expertise however, You do need to look at the properties of the cable you are going to use.

Cord coding numbers are different then any other multi conductor wire assembly. For example a 8/3 cord will have 3 wires while a 8/3 romex will have four wires. In cords the ground wire is counted in the number of conductors listed on the cord.
10/3 cord is good for 30amps @120 volts per NEC.
8/3 cord is good for 40amps @120 volts per NEC.
6/3 cord is good for 50amps @120 volts per NEC.

Now lets look at cord coding. The type of cord stampped on the jacket. Each letter of the code means something different. Most standard extention cords are coded type SJW.
"S" means standard rubber or plastic cord jacket.
"J" means junior grade. The jacket is thin and should not be left outside in use for long periods of time. The jacket can crack from heat and sunlight. It is also easy to nick and will not take much abuse.
"W" means simple enough "waterproof"
Now there is another code letters "O"
"O" means outdoor use.
Being a certified master electrician and the owner of TKMJ Productions a sound production and audio recording company, all of my cords are marked "SOW" (standard, outdoor, waterproof) This is the coding you want on your cords. "SOW" cords are very heavy with thick insulation and a very heavy jacket. They can take a lot of abuse of cars and trucks running over them. You can pull them thru gravel parking lots without worry. They are also very heavy in weight. About the only thing you can't do to them is run them over with your lawn mower.

Stay away from any cord for your RV or genset that has the "J" marking unless it is used in an area that will not have traffic walking on it. Type "J" cords are "very light duty" and do not take a lot of abuse.

So lets get back to your cord in the backyard. I would recomend a "SOW" cord if you plan on letting it set outside for long periods of time (longer then a week) or a "SO" type cord if you are going to run the cord out when the power fails and put it away when power is restored. "SO" cord can set outside for a few days without a worry.

Both types of cord are available thru an electrical supply house. You can even order it on line by the roll in different colors, Most rolls are 100' 250' and 500' respectivly. A supply house will usually have it in black only. They can order colors for you but will insist that you purchase the entire spool or coil. The black cord is cut to legnth off a big roll while you wait.

Ken

P.S. I almost forgot. Forget the garden hose thing. All it will do for you is keep the natural heat of the cord inside the hose. Heat in your cords can be your worst nightmare. Keep them cool by allowing the natural wind to help take away the heat. Don't coop them up. It will cause more problems in the long run. Besides, cords are designed to run free. NEC states that it is unsafe to run a cord thru and means of conduit. Whoever gave you this idea is a fool!

[skyzoomer]

Jimmy, Oldfordman and Todd,

Thanks for your replies.

There are few if any RVs in my state (Hawaii) so no place sells the RV power plug. I physically went to HomeDepot and two hardware stores, and called Lowes and two local electrical supply houses. Nada. When I do online searches at the Walmat and Homedepot web sites (used the HomeDepot SKU number that Todd supplied), I can't find the RV plug.

Regarding running my generator close to our house, my plan was to run it in our carport where it won't get wet even if it rains. The carport is completely open on one side and the front. The other side has a 4x8 foot opening. The back side is against our house and I intended to close all of the windows on that side of the house. From Oldfordman's post I can see now that if the wind happens to blow from the front of the carport toward the house, the fumes could wrap around the house and still get in. Thanks Oldfordman for bring that up!

Alternatives would then be:

1. Run an exhaust pipe from the generator to the side of the carport and then up above roof level. Put an "anti-rain" thing over the exposed opening or a U-turn so the opening is facing down. Would this eliminate the carbon monoxide problem no matter which direction the wind is blowing? Any idea on the size of pipe I would need to use to minimize air restriction? The exhaust pipe run would be about 10 feet horizontal and 10 feet up for total of 20 feet. Also, think I can use PVC pipe for part of the run? Maybe auto exhaust pipe for x number of feet and then PVC pipe the balance of the run?

2. Run the generator in the back yard about 60 feet away from the house but it will be out in the open there. How do folks protect their generators from the rain when it is sitting in the open?

3. If I run it in the back yard, the total cable length will be about 100 feet (37 feet from transfer switch to back of house and 63 feet away from the house). What kind of cable do folks use when laying the cable on the ground outdoors? I also read someplace about putting cable in a garden hose but can 8-3 or 6-3 cable fit in a garden hose? Any comments on doing the garden hose trick?

I think option-1 (exhaust pipe) would be the best for my situation if it can guarantee that no fumes will get into our home. Heat rises so I think it would be fool proof. What do you folks think?

[Todd_Barney]

Home Depot also sells the 3-prong male RV plug. SKU 495344, $8.99 at my store. I used it to make a cable for my gen.

The cable (10-3 for portable cord) was $1.65/ft. SKU 155933

[Oldfordman]

jimmyfred wrote:

skyzoomer wrote:
This is an amazing thread with amazing contributors. Have learned so much and have only read less than half of the posts but intend to read every post as time permits. Did happen to jump from page 56 to page 200 where posts on the Champion C46540 started.

I don't own a RV but bought a Champion C46540 to power our home during power failures via a transfer switch. I have some questions and would appreciate some help setting it up.

=====

INTENDED CONFIGURATION:

1. Connect the RV connector to a Gen-Tran 30116V, 6 circuit transfer switch which has a L5-30, 3 prong male connector.

2. The optimum cable length is 30 feet. 25 feet is a tad tight.

=====

LOAD:
I intend to reserve wattage as follows:

1. Have 2 refrigerators so plan to alternate running them. Only one will be powered at a time.
a) Figure about 700 running watts with 2100 starting watts.
b) Generator has 4000 peak watts. So 4000 watts - 2100 watts = 1900 watts to run other stuff.

2. Tabletop portable range. Burner-1 = 1000 watts, Burner-2 = 500 watts. Kitchen lights = 150 watts. So total load while cooking = 1650 watts.

3. When not using tabletop range, might use 1200 watt microwave.

4. When not cooking, the 1900 watts would be used for various lights in home.

=====

QUESTIONS:

1. Will a 30 foot, 30 amp, 10-3 RV power cord be OK or will it run warm? Should I consider a 30 foot cord using #8 wire instead?

2. Where can I buy a TT30P RV plug connector if I make a 30 foot, 8-3 power cord? I've googled but have not been able to find the RV male connector alone anyplace.

3. Is my method of subtracting 2100 watts for the refrigerator from the 4000 watts peak to have 1900 remaining useable watts valid?

4. While sleeping, could both refigerators be running without overloading the C46540? All other circuits would be switched off.

5. Anyone with experience using the Gen-Tran 30116V transfer switch? Recommended?

Thanks,
Skyzoomer

...........1)Yes , 10-3 is plenty big...
...........2)Wal-Mart sells a 30 am RV plug
...........3)I would figure 3500 total available for a total wattage available number . If , one fridge is running at 700 watts , then the add'tl 2100 should be readily available to start the other fridge . Just as long as they both don't start simultaneously .
...........4)Yes....
...........5)No experience here ... , jf

One overlooked fact here is the distance from the house the genset will be running. Most SAFETY recommendations call for a greater distance than the 25-30 feet of cord you are referring to. Some recent pamphlets have suggested a minimum of 50' from a residence for a gasoline generator.

You indicate that you plan on running the generator while sleeping to keep the refer's going. Be very carefull that you are not having Carbon Monoxide infiltrating your sleeping area. Numerous deaths were attributed to running generators here in the NW during last falls power outages. While it may be a common practice to run Generators near RV's there is usually a great deal more air circulation around RV's than their may be in a fenced yard.

For myself, I have an underground line that allows me to feed my transfer switch while running the generator 100 feet from the house. The wire size is #6 so I am not worried about voltage drop, or CO for that matter. The line is also dual purpose. With some switching, it also becomes a power line to the RV when power is on and I'm not using it for a Generator connection.