3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

[professor95]

professor95 wrote:
EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here.

In the eight year run of this thread we have amassed almost 10,000 postings and surpassed a million views. This creates somewhat of a dilemma for anyone who has just discovered the forum.

Since the amount of information is virtually overwhelming, I suggest you set your preferences for this thread to read "newest first" and then begin to page backwards.

What you will find in these pages is a wealth of info on virtually any make or model of Chinese manufactured synchronous (non-inverter) generator in the 3,000 watt performance class. Info will include how to rewire series coils to parallel to obtain maximum wattage from a single 120 volt outlet. Tips on further reducing sound levels, how to care for these generators, which ones are "RV ready" and provide the best overall performance for the dollar invested. Which companies NOT to deal with, where the best prices are, how to safely wire the generator into a home or RV, how to check your RV for electrical faults, sources for generator accessories, which 20/30 adapters are safe to use and which are not. How to convert a gasoline generator to propane or NG. This is only the beginning. The forum has a life of its own with the focus sub-topic switching frequently. Still, the main topic of utilizing the amazing, inexpensive Chinese gensets is always there. The amount of creativity and innovation presented in these pages is indicative of the talents shared in the diverse backgrounds of the folks who make up our combined RV community.

Many of the original brands and models of Chinese gensets mentioned in the introduction and early pages of the thread have since disappeared. New EPA and CARB emissions requirements, company bonds assuring the emissions warranty will be honored even if the company goes out of business, and fierce competition in the industry have changed the playing field. Champion Power Equipment has become the apparent "trophy team" providing an ever expanding retail outlet, an ample parts supply, a strong warranty and excellent customer service. CPE has continued to improve their product and now offers a new model (#46538) with exclusive convenience, safety and performance features aimed at the RV market. Big names like Cummins/Onan, Honda and Generac all now have Chinese built open frame synchronous gensets available. Ironically, the prices often found on these gensets has not significantly changed during the past eight years - even with the devaluation of the American Dollar and new EPA/CARB requirements.

I also encourage you to use the search function and even the advanced search options to find information. Key works such as "rewiring", "PowerPro", "Champion", "Onan Homesite", "Duropower", "ETQ", "Jiung Dong or JD", "Tractor Supply", "Costco", "Lowe's" and "Home Depot" are all examples of keywords that will give you specific information on different models being sold by retailers today.

Or, you can fill your glass with your favorite beverage (keep more close by - maybe some munchies as well :D, sit back at your computer, tell your wife (or significant other) that you will see her in the morning and spend the next 10 or so hours reading through the postings.

No one on the forum gets mad if you ask a question that is a repeat. Please do not hesitate to post to the forum. All questions are considered important and those active on the forum will do their best to respond with a valid answer.

Also note we are not out to knock the Honda, Yamaha, Kipor or other brands of high end digital gensets. We recognize the quality of these products and their suitability for quite, efficient RV use. But, there is a flood of reliable, inexpensive and comparatively lower cost gensets coming out of China that are excellent alternative choices for the RVer wanting power to run an air conditioner, microwave, etc. without excessive noise or breaking the budget.

Oh, one last thing. The folks on this forum are true gentlemen. We do not flame one another or the product discussed - period. Ugly contributors usually have their comments and remarks ignored by our masses. It is not a forum to start arguments to obtain a clear win. We do disagree on many issues, but we have all agreed to do that in a respectable manner.

We now have the introduction of more and more inverter gensets. There is a rather extensive thread named "The Official Unofficial Champion 2000i Generator" on this forum. Today, I added info on the new Champion 3100i inverter genset. Discussion on this product may get moved to its own thread at a later date.

Many have looked upon this thread with distain saying Chinese is cheap and doomed to failure. I remember saying exactly the same thing about Japanese products a few decades back. But, over the past eight years the track record for Chinese built generators has shown otherwise.

Please, join us in a fascinating journey down the Chinese built genset road of knowledge.

This is the question I posted that got it all started back in March 2005.......

Randy

For a little over a month now, I have been somewhat intrigued by the availability of a 3000 watt, 6.5 HP generator at Pep Boys and Northern Tool for under $300.00. The engine on this generator looks identical to a Honda 6.5 HP OHV engine. Knowing that the Chinese have become very adept at “cloning” reputable technologies from other manufacturers, I was not surprised at the similarities. Neither store could give me any information on the generator nor did they have a “running” display model.

I have done a little research. This is what I have discovered:

Many of these generators are imported by ELIM International (www.eliminternational.com) out of Buffalo, New York from Jiung Manufacturing in China. (The unit at Northern is identical but carries the JIUNG name.)

The engines are indeed a Chinese knockoff of the popular 6.5 HP 196cc Honda Engine. “Supposedly” Honda has licensed the engine technology to the Chinese manufacturer of the product.

The Chinese company that makes the ELM3000 generators is a rather large, diverse, long-standing company with a reputation for “above average quality” Chinese made products (Jiung Manufacturing). There are many more Chinese companies making almost identical gensets.

The generators at PepBoys do have a six month limited warranty. But, it is only on the engine (not the generator) and requires paying for shipping to and from Buffalo. Probably not a very practical thing to do if you have warranty issues.

ELIM does supply replacement parts (a PDF parts manual is available on the ELIM web site). No prices are given for replacement parts nor is there an “availability listing”.

The generator head itself is a brushless design. The only really significant wear parts in the generator are the bearings – most likely universally available.

The published dB rating is 67 at 23 feet. This is “reasonably” quite for a generator of this size as most comparabl.... The 67 dB rating is the same as Honda gives their 3000 watt CycloInverter with a “look alike” eng...

[JConatser]

Dan86300zxt wrote:
... repeated attempts give me an average of 27 amps(3240 watts) when the ac is first turned on... ...(the 50 something amps proffessor95 mentioned as "typical" had me worried)...

Note that while the Kill-A-Watt meter is a good tool that can be used for lots of electrical readings, it is not designed for measuring the In-Rush current of an inductive load. When designing circuitry where the In-Rush current has to be allowed for, a pretty good "poor-man's estimate" is 3 times the Run amps. That's pretty much the minimum you'll ever see when/if you measure it with an In-Rush current capable meter; sometimes 6-8 times the Run current will be observed.

[MrRchitty]

Double post... reason for edit.
:S

[MrRchitty]

Dan86300zxt wrote:
Update:


**I removed the burned out thermal fuse from my "Kill-A-Watt" and quick repaired it to see if I could get a better idea of the start energy the 13.5k ac unit requires.(dangerous repair...bypassed the fuse..):S
-Many repeated attempts give me an average of 27 amps(3240 watts) when the ac is first turned on, with an immediate rapid decrease to the approximate average I already calculated while running on high cool(13.45 amps/1580 watts) . The watts reading on the meter is too slow to give me a reading for start-up, so I used the amps selection on the meter. This is accurate as I can calculate/test with what I have and to me, it seems proper.
(the 50 something amps proffessor95 mentioned as "typical" had me worried)

I soldered a fuse holder inside the Kill_a_Watt and used a 250 milliamp fuse. Closest I could find.

Next... you are trying to measure what is known as in-rush current. You need a clamp meter with that capability. I measured my 13,500 Dometic yesterday. Blower and compressor pulled a peak of 70 amps. This measurement is taken in the first 150ms of operation.

I shut down the AC unit, let it rest for 15 minutes, pulled the relay wire to the fan and the compressor gave me an in-rush current of 62 amps.

I hope this helps.

How is the Kill_A_Watt doing with AC unit running through it without a fuse?

[Dan86300zxt]

Update:
*Using a commercial 30amp 3way light switch...I have discovered what I had hoped for. My 2000 watt Digital inverter will handle the "running load" of the 13.5k rooftop ac.

*I will have to use it to merely cool the MH periodically when not plugged with shore power and this means setting the ac at the coldest setting until I am happy with the temp, then shut everything down. (not allowing the thermostat to cycle the compressor, just going for full cooling and calling it good enough for a period of time)

**I removed the burned out thermal fuse from my "Kill-A-Watt" and quick repaired it to see if I could get a better idea of the start energy the 13.5k ac unit requires.(dangerous repair...bypassed the fuse..):S
-Many repeated attempts give me an average of 27 amps(3240 watts) when the ac is first turned on, with an immediate rapid decrease to the approximate average I already calculated while running on high cool(13.45 amps/1580 watts) . The watts reading on the meter is too slow to give me a reading for start-up, so I used the amps selection on the meter. This is accurate as I can calculate/test with what I have and to me, it seems proper.
(the 50 something amps proffessor95 mentioned as "typical" had me worried)

I am happy with all the assistance and information I have received from this thread and its members. I know for some, what I am doing is "against the grain" according to their opinions, but my budget and timing of events is what it is for my situation.
Over-all, I am happy with my results so far and what I have is functional plus decades above the technology it was when it was built in 1977. Sure it is not the "most convienant", but it very much "works for me".

Dan
I am undecided on the decision between pure sine wave and modified sine wave for converters, it'll come down to the $$ when I purchase.
I have decided to stick with the 30 amp commercial 3way switch, it is simple, cheap, and easily replaced for my situation.

[ol_Bombero-JC]

w7gmc wrote:
First let me say...."You get what you pay for". With that out of the way, I started my Boondock camping with a Generac gen made for construction. LOUD and used alot of fuel, but it did the job. I found that if I left the Gen in the bed of the truck with the tailgate up and parked my truck at the end of the RV power cord...the noise was bearable.

I took the dive and purchased a Honda EU2000i locally, found out Mayberrys has them for $879 shipped to the door.

http://www.mayberrys.com/honda/generator/html/invertgenerator.htm

Honda will not allow the price to be listed.

I have used the gen for about 4 years now and no complaints. Starts easy, weights about 47lbs, easy to carry especially if your more mature! You can use 2 in parallel to run a AC if you must.

Its quiet! I ran my RV, my father in-laws RV, 2 DirecTV satellite receivers, 2 TV's, 2 CPAP machines and charging the coach batteries and got alittle over 9 hrs of run time on 1.1 gallons. You will be using alot of fuel on the knock offs! My dad has one of the Champion Gens and its loud and a gas hog. Uses like 4.5 gallons in 8 hrs.

I have modified mine to suck fuel from an external fuel can and now have the capability to run the gen for about 60hrs non stop.

The gen gets louder as it kicks up from Eco Throttle to power the microwave or toaster...not both at once and it will not run a 13.5k air conditioner at 4,500 feet above sea level. All gen's loose approximately 2% capacity per 1,000 ft of elevation....nature of the beast.

You do the fuel caculations and see if the Knock Off gen was worth the cost. If you only use it a few times or for emergencies, it may be worth the cost....if you camp more than a few times and do alot of boondock camping as I enjoy....spend the money and you will not regret the purchase.

Watts up?.:?

With all due respect - there's a reason this thread has almost ten thousand posts, and three-quarter of a million views!

Probably the most "posted to", viewed and "longest-lasting" thread on any of the forums on RV Net - bar none!

IMO - most folks (on this thread) know very well they "get what they pay for" - and are very happy with the result of that expenditure!

I'm sure they are equally happy that you are pleased with your purchase.

IMO - "we" are aware of most -if not all- of the "comparative benefits" of the various brands of generators whether brand name or "knock-offs". (Specs, cost, reliability, etc., etc.)

Many of those have been extensively discussed, tested, etc. - either here - and/or on other threads in the Tech Forums.

The search feature is very helpful in locating older information.

Hope this "generates" some research of the various info available on *all* the threads in the Tech Form - no matter what your personal preference or brand loyalty may be.

~

[Dan86300zxt]

I know it might be hard to see from the photo, but here is what I have currently. I didn't realize that using 4 ga wiring would suffice in the manner I am wired(but I also didn't know as much as I do now when I did the wiring). Looks like I have to upgrade some more. Just top be very clear, each "pair" of the six volt batteries is fused with an ANL style 150 amp fuse(that means that I am fused for a total of 450 watts from the battery bank). The power distribution blocks have a total of 3 four gauge positive and 3 four gauge ground wires from the battery bank, all no longer than around 2 ft long.(the longer runs you see there running to the right are for an audio/subwoofer amplifier I have mounted inside the MH)
-I haven't looked too hard, but I thought that was good enough for the 2k watt inverter I had planned to use, that was supposed to be getting repaired.(turned out that the repair place had it 4 months and couldn't get the part for it)
*I do know that I can't go wrong with TOO much wire size when it comes to amperage and voltage drop, I just thought I was close to the minimum...oh well, looks like I'll have to go bigger...(stinks because I have two full spools of 4ga wire and tons of gold plated crimp ends on hand....maybe I'll just double up and plan to run an even large gauge from the distribution blocks tot he inverter I end up with.)

[professor95]

Dan,

Having a big MH rather than a towable with a PU makes carrying the extra batteries much easier.

The only thing in you description that won't work is the #4 cable and the 150 amp fuse. If you get a large inverter you will need a larger gauge copper cable from the battery to the inverter.

I have a 3,000/6,000 watt MAXX MSW inverter that is currently in storage. I was never able to use it at the full potential capacity due to inadequate cable size and too much cable length. Since I really didn't need 3,000 watts I opted to go with a smaller inverter and thus smaller cables and batteries. I now have two 127 amp hour AGM 12 volt batteries in the fifth wheel feeding the 1200 watt inverter with #2 copper welding cable. Please believe me and understand that the wiring needed for a larger inverter is not a place to take shortcuts. I've been there and done that. Your batteries sound promising but your bus to tap power and cables must be capable of handling as much as 600 amps of current intermittently and 300 amps continuous without any significant voltage drop. Anything over 2/10 of one volt is significant.

Good luck. I am anxious to learn how your project turns out.

[Dan86300zxt]

Professor95Professor95 said:
"We are talking about a MINIMUM of four series/parallel six volt golf cart batteries, no more than 2' of #1/0 copper cable (3,000 watt inverters use twin cables for each pole) and the batteries floating at around 6.6 volts each to provide 13.2 volts series/parallel. Note this is an additional 350 pounds of dead weight to carry in the trailer not including the inverter and vented case for the batteries."


*Well, no problem there...I already have six Energizer GC-2's installed as a battery bank(675 total amp hrs) inthe rear of my MH. All fused at 150 amp/pair, wired in series/parallel with 4 gauge for 12 volt power. The longest run being 2'leading from battery terminals of each pair to power distribution blocks, ready for 2' of 1/0 wire to install the inverter of choice.

-Hmmm....$400 for a decent AIMS #PWRINV5000W modified sine wave with a 5000 continous and 10,000 watt peak/surge. (which might mess with my radio reception and LCD tv working properly...)
(or)
-$474 for a Sunforce# 112460 pure sine wave with a 2500 continous and 5000 peak/surge.

[professor95]

This month's Highways Magazine features a full page ad for the Champion 3,000 watt class and 1,200 watt class synchronous generators from Camping World.

This is the very first time I have seen a full page CPE ad in anything. CPE does NOT advertise, they leave this up to their retail sales customers.

It is noteworthy to mention that Affinity Media is now Trailer Life Enterprises and owns Camping World as well as Woodall's, Trailer Life, MotorHome, Camping Life and the very forum/thread we are on.

Over on the "other" thread devoted to the new CPE 2,000 watt inverter generator we have seen a lot of activity and commentary. I myself have spent numerous hours there commenting on my "twins" and their overall performance.

Inverters can be quieter and the nice, clean sine wave produced by the solid state computer based output module is less likely to cause a typical microwave oven to make strange sounds. But, IMHO, there is NO WAY dollar for watt that they can equal up to the pure power and performance of my 3,000 watt class Chinese built Champion open frame, synchronous generator.

When the A/C is running, the dbA level from twin 2,000 watt inverters matches that of my portable 46538 sitting outside with a GenTent. The twins are a full 8 dbA louder than my synchronous, sound shielded CPE40008 mounted inside the front compartment or "cave" of my fifth wheel when running the 15K BTU air conditioner. An unshielded 46538 comes in at 68 dbA, the twins at 65 dbA, and my 40008 maximum is 57 dbA. The GenTent used as a sound shield around the 46538 matches the inverter twins at 65 dbA.

The downside to the old, trusted synchronous workhorse? Well, it is heavy and not too easily hoisted into a pick-up bed without help. While it is what I consider fuel efficient, it is likely to use more fuel for each KW produced that the inverter. It does have more mechanical noise, which is where the GenTent really helps to make it a sound level match for twin inverters under load. The output has some distortion, but not at a level where any electronics in a RV could be damaged or performance impaired (microwave excluded - but no damage observed). The remote control RF unit, electric start, volt guard, load shed and 50 state EPA/CARB/NPS certification make it legal anywhere you go.

This is not your Daddy's Briggs & Straton Contractor Generator. The Chinese have reverse engineered the Honda 200 GX engine incorporating awesome reliability and the "better" manufacturers use all copper high temperature rated wire in the stator and armature of the alternator. Parts are easy to come by - no matter what brand of Chinese 3,000 watt class genny you have since there is such a wide range of interchangeability.

I have learned a lot working with my CPE and Kipor inverter generators. Keeping abreast to the mechanics and changes to the power products market is something I enjoy doing. But, for now, my synchronous 3,000 watt class Chinese generator is not coming out of the cave inside my 5th wheel. I love remote control, electric start and not worrying about two fuel tanks, parallel cables, two rope starters, two oil changes, etc. Just push a button and instant bacon or cold air. It's nice - you guys contemplating the purchase of a 3,000 watt class genny for your RV should not forget the old workhorses.

[MrWizard]

I AGREE a different generator is a better option
BUT he just recently completed the install of THIS genny in his RV and only wants to use the inverter for a few minutes

it can be done, with the TRANSFER switch method, BUT is it worth the work & cost ?

[professor95]

Dan86300zxt wrote:
Thanx For the info. and confidence Professor.

SNIP

Ahaaaa..... Selecting an inverter to start and run a 13,500 BTU air conditioner - even for a few minutes. That can be like trying to toss a penny into a milk bottle from across the room.

A MSW inverter will work OK with a 120 VAC air conditioner, but a true sine wave with a peak voltage equal to conventional shore power is always better for obtaining full power from an electric motor and reducing the motor temperature. Let me give you an example of MSW inverter usage: I have a 6,000 BTU A/C I reworked to fit into a Dometic rooftop RV case on the front of our fiver. It pulls around 560 watts. I am able to start and run the A/C from a 1200 watt MAXX MSW inverter. But, the A/C has a nice starting capacitor that really helps get things going. The blower fan runs slower on the MSW inverter power and there is a noticeable hummm in the compressor. I am sure the cooling capacity is reduced by about 1,000 BTU using the MSW inverter.

A 3,000 watt MSW inverter "might" start your rooftop 13.5K BTU A/C if your batteries are fully charged, your cables are short and extremely large, the Ah capacity of the batteries is sufficient to handle the inverter surge without voltage drop, and your A/C has the best possible hard start capacitor added to the compressor. You can improve on the power losses by selecting a 24 volt or 48 volt inverter - but the battery bank size remains the same as a 12 volt inverter.

We are talking about a MINIMUM of four series/parallel six volt golf cart batteries, no more than 2' of #1/0 copper cable (3,000 watt inverters use twin cables for each pole) and the batteries floating at around 6.6 volts each to provide 13.2 volts series/parallel. Note this is an additional 350 pounds of dead weight to carry in the trailer not including the inverter and vented case for the batteries.

Inverters larger than 3,000/6,000 watts are available, but they will require even larger cables and battery capacity to provide the needed power for the inverter.

DC to AC inverters typically have a 10:1 power ratio. If the surge or starting current for the 13.5K BTU A/C is 56 amps (typical) you will be pulling 560 amps from your batteries and through your cables. 1 volt may not sound like much, but a loss of 1 volt to the input of an inverter is a pathway to failure for the output and surge capacity of an inverter.

You are going to spend a lot of money - a BIG lot of money - on the inverter, batteries and wiring. Truthfully, you would be way ahead of the game to run a pair of 2,000 watt Honda inverter generators and drop one after the A/C is running or run a single 3,000 watt generator.

Contrary to some beliefs for feasibility - I run a single Champion 40008 that powers my 15K BTU rooftop A/C that is ultimately quieter than a Honda inverter or MotorHome Onan built-in generator. I carry 1,600 Ah of AGM batteries in the bed of the Volvo that plug into the camper when inverter power is needed. I can run the 6,000 BTU A/C all night off of the 1200W MSW inverter and the large battery bank making it possible to sleep cool on a hot, humid night when even quiet generators are not allowed. Of course, the battery bank weighs over 1,300 pounds. This would be an issue for a PU or in a camper. But, it is nothing for the Volvo to carry around. In fact, the added weight helps overall performance since the computer manages power from the engine based on load (Load Based Speed Control). Sorry, but I sometimes need to gloat a little :B

Compare your dollar to dollar investments and added weight/space consumed and you may want to drop the idea of using the battery powered inverter and just go to a second or larger generator.

[MrWizard]

maybe.. I don't know,
it will probably last for a while, depends on how many times you use it, HOW many switch cycles under load before the contacts are damaged

mine has too work flawlessly, day in , day out, when ever I start the onan or plug the shore cord into the portable champion

Dan86300zxt wrote:

MrWizard wrote:
There is another way, not usually thought of,

Using a transfer switch, between the (2) power sources (
Like is done with built in generators and built in INVERTERS ) and the A/C circuit
This may require seperating the A/C wiring from the breaker panel
Basic connect the inverter to default normally closed contacts, the A/C to the common/output side , and OEM feed aka house-generator to the genset-normally open side

Turn on the A/C using the inverter power, then start the generator
When the generator comes on the transfer switch will engage

Now for the problems
Your batteries just took a hit and your converter is going to shift gears to high mode (provided you have a good one)
And the generator is going to overload,
So the converter needs too be off and you need to trickle charge the batteries with a low amp charger like 10amps , or no charging until you turn off the air
If your batteries were charged before you turned on the air, the small charge should be enough,

Also you will need a heavy duty transfer switch, to with the 13amp running load if you wish to prevent failure because of arc & welded contacts

Would the 30 amp automatic transfer switch be considered "Heavy duty enough"??
*And yes, more than likely, the scenario would be...that when using the air, I would use the generator only for the air, not to do anything but just that. Afterwards or when done with the air, I would use the generator for the other items, such as the PD battery charger I have or the microwave.

[w7gmc]

First let me say...."You get what you pay for". With that out of the way, I started my Boondock camping with a Generac gen made for construction. LOUD and used alot of fuel, but it did the job. I found that if I left the Gen in the bed of the truck with the tailgate up and parked my truck at the end of the RV power cord...the noise was bearable.

I took the dive and purchased a Honda EU2000i locally, found out Mayberrys has them for $879 shipped to the door.

http://www.mayberrys.com/honda/generator/html/invertgenerator.htm

Honda will not allow the price to be listed.

I have used the gen for about 4 years now and no complaints. Starts easy, weights about 47lbs, easy to carry especially if your more mature! You can use 2 in parallel to run a AC if you must.

Its quiet! I ran my RV, my father in-laws RV, 2 DirecTV satellite receivers, 2 TV's, 2 CPAP machines and charging the coach batteries and got alittle over 9 hrs of run time on 1.1 gallons. You will be using alot of fuel on the knock offs! My dad has one of the Champion Gens and its loud and a gas hog. Uses like 4.5 gallons in 8 hrs.

I have modified mine to suck fuel from an external fuel can and now have the capability to run the gen for about 60hrs non stop.

The gen gets louder as it kicks up from Eco Throttle to power the microwave or toaster...not both at once and it will not run a 13.5k air conditioner at 4,500 feet above sea level. All gen's loose approximately 2% capacity per 1,000 ft of elevation....nature of the beast.

You do the fuel caculations and see if the Knock Off gen was worth the cost. If you only use it a few times or for emergencies, it may be worth the cost....if you camp more than a few times and do alot of boondock camping as I enjoy....spend the money and you will not regret the purchase.

[Dakota2004]

Dan86300zxt wrote:
Hey Professor...
Got a technical question.
*Is it possible to utilize two items to feed house power at the same time?
^^^I have been reading alot on home grid tie type stuff...seamless power switching is possible, I just don't know what would be the most cost effective unit to buy to suit my needs. I am unsure if merely utilizing an automatic transfer switch would do the job...)

-The reason I ask, is because, my generator(I have the AP2k digital inverter all custom fitted into my dedicated compartment)...will not make enough power to kick on the compressor to my rooftop a/c unit.(It'll run the fan, but not the heat portion, nor the cooling, generator revs up, but goes into overload and nothing, no 120v output until I turn off rooftop for the generator to "reset"...)

*On shore power, I have measured the rooftop unit to pull a continous 1580watts/13.45 amps while cooling, and noticed that while heating on low heat, pulling a continous 1820 watts/15.3 amps. I do not know what the start up wattage is or amperage.(My meter quit working...I accidentally overloaded it checking combinations of things....)

*I wish there was a way to utilize an appropiate sized modified sine wave inverter to start up and run the rooftop a/c temporarily.....and then start up the generator to let the generator take over completely by switching the inverter to off..

**I have a very good feeling that if the rooftop a/c was running already, that the generator would be able to handle the whole load of it...it's the start up power needs that my generator isn't happy with. (I don't even get a growl or grrr or nothing from the rooftop compressor...because the generator determines the load too high and goes into overload protection mode)

Ideas please...
thnx,
Dan

Why not try one of these:

Tripp Lite PowerVerter APS 2400 Watt Power Inverter

Tripp Lite's APS2448 3-function DC-to-AC inverter with auto line-to-battery transfer and integrated charging system serves as a standalone 48V inverter or an extended run UPS. Supplies up to 2400 watts of continuous 120V AC power from a 48V DC bus or battery set. Extended Run UPS Configure as a UPS for long-term battery support of telecom systems, security alarms, computer systems and various other motorized and electronic loads.

You will need to do a little re-wiring on the Air Conditioner circuit but this will have the air conditioner running on the inverter and then you would plug the inverter into your generator.

Here is the 24V model: APS2424

[Dan86300zxt]

MrWizard wrote:
There is another way, not usually thought of,

Using a transfer switch, between the (2) power sources (
Like is done with built in generators and built in INVERTERS ) and the A/C circuit
This may require seperating the A/C wiring from the breaker panel
Basic connect the inverter to default normally closed contacts, the A/C to the common/output side , and OEM feed aka house-generator to the genset-normally open side

Turn on the A/C using the inverter power, then start the generator
When the generator comes on the transfer switch will engage

Now for the problems
Your batteries just took a hit and your converter is going to shift gears to high mode (provided you have a good one)
And the generator is going to overload,
So the converter needs too be off and you need to trickle charge the batteries with a low amp charger like 10amps , or no charging until you turn off the air
If your batteries were charged before you turned on the air, the small charge should be enough,

Also you will need a heavy duty transfer switch, to with the 13amp running load if you wish to prevent failure because of arc & welded contacts

Would the 30 amp automatic transfer switch be considered "Heavy duty enough"??
*And yes, more than likely, the scenario would be...that when using the air, I would use the generator only for the air, not to do anything but just that. Afterwards or when done with the air, I would use the generator for the other items, such as the PD battery charger I have or the microwave.