50amp on 120/208 service

[Bill_Satellite]

I know most systems are setup on 120/240 systems but I need to have a plug installed in a commercial building that has 3 phase lines coming in and power options are 120 and 208. I don't see where that would be an issue as I would have 2 good 120V legs but between the 2 legs it would read 208. I don't use 240 (or 208) anywhere in the coach and don't see why this would be an issue but I would love someone to confirm that I am right or give me a warning that something with this setup could be an issue.
Thanks all.

[ScottG]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

HMMMMM, I have a 220V Washer AND Dryer. I also have 220V Cheap Heat.

I'm curious, what happens if you turn on your washer, drier or CH when plugged into 30A (120)?
Or do they just expect us to be smarter than that.. 😄

[Bill_Satellite]

Not sure why anyone thought I was going to try to install this myself, but I have 2 professionals installing the plug but not all professionals understand exactly what is required of RV's. They know what an RV plug is and the wiring required. I just wanted a little reassurance that they understood what I hoped they understood and it appears that they do. Hopefully, they will get the work done this week or next and I will be plugged in 30 seconds from the office!

[Bill_Satellite]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
"NOTHING in yoru RV needs 240 volts (Minor exception if you have an ALL ELECTRIC RV that may not be the case) Everythign is 120 volt"

HMMMMM, I have a 220V Washer AND Dryer. I also have 220V Cheap Heat.

Bottom line I would consult a QUALIFIED Electrician.

No, nothing in my RV needs anything other than 120. Don't need ANY kind of electrician to tell me that.

[wa8yxm]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
"NOTHING in yoru RV needs 240 volts (Minor exception if you have an ALL ELECTRIC RV that may not be the case) Everythign is 120 volt"

HMMMMM, I have a 220V Washer AND Dryer. I also have 220V Cheap Heat.

Bottom line I would consult a QUALIFIED Electrician.

You will note I too suggested a qualified electrician or at least a licensed one. I won't bore anyone with the list of reasons why.

Your 220 Volt W/D is not designed for RC that's a Residential device I'm sure. But it won't mind 208.. Neither will the cheap heat. Just a few less BTUs.

THe element in my water heater says 240 volt (1500 watt) but it works just fine on 120. only 375 Watts though.

[theoldwizard1]

Chris Bryant wrote:
FWIW, the heat pump in my Florida house was rated to run on 208 or 240.

This is very common now a days, especially for A/C and heat pumps.

Pure resistance devices (stove, water heater, dryer) will just make less heat.

[pianotuna]

for reasons of insurance use a qualified electrician.

[time2roll]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
HMMMMM, I have a 220V Washer AND Dryer. I also have 220V Cheap Heat.

Really stuck in the middle on that. 😉

[road-runner]

Chris Bryant wrote:
FWIW, the heat pump in my Florida house was rated to run on 208 or 240.

My home heat pump is the same. The specs for the air handler give backup heat output values for both 208 and 240.

[DrewE]

CA Traveler wrote:
208V Shouldn't be a problem with RVs that don't have 240 AC motors or appliances.

But are you guys really sure about what you're posting for condos, etc. I've always believed most appliances were 120/240V single phase. And you seem to be suggesting 120/208 2 phase (120 degree phase) difference is OK, I'd have reservations about single phase motors on this power. Plus my understanding is the target voltage is +-10% or 216V and not 208V.

In my house every AC has 2 motors. The dryer is gas with a 120V motor. Don't know what motor power an electric dry requires.

BTW Every home/condo that I'm aware of uses 120/240V single phase.

Although the two phases are 120 degrees from each other, the phase to phase waveform still works out to be a sine wave, so it's "normal" single phase power albeit at a lower voltage. There are plenty of single-phase motors that are rated to operate at either 208V or 240V (and likewise plenty that are not so rated).

In apartments, more so than in condos, major appliances are usually supplied by the landlord as part of the unit. Naturally if they happen to have 208V rather than 240V power for the dryer or air conditioner they would select units that are appropriate for the supply. Smaller window air conditioners such as a tenant might have and use on their own would generally be 120V.

[Cummins12V98]

"NOTHING in yoru RV needs 240 volts (Minor exception if you have an ALL ELECTRIC RV that may not be the case) Everythign is 120 volt"

HMMMMM, I have a 220V Washer AND Dryer. I also have 220V Cheap Heat.

Bottom line I would consult a QUALIFIED Electrician.

[vermilye]

Due to an error by the NY state contract ordering folks, we had 240v dryers installed in our costume shop wired with 120/208v. They worked, but took much longer to dry than they would at 240v. As to 120v loads, there is no difference between connection to 120/240v or 120/208v.

[time2roll]

CA Traveler wrote:
BTW Every home/condo that I'm aware of uses 120/240V single phase.

I manage a rental condo on 208/120 service. And have talked with others on same.

Has become a periodic issue in the EV world. The newest Nissan LEAF charging cord works on 120 volts or 240 volts. Does not work on 208 service causing frustration due to a lame oversight by Nissan. ALL aftermarket charging cords work on 208/240 range of voltage.

[Chris_Bryant]

FWIW, the heat pump in my Florida house was rated to run on 208 or 240.

[CA_Traveler]

208V Shouldn't be a problem with RVs that don't have 240 AC motors or appliances.

But are you guys really sure about what you're posting for condos, etc. I've always believed most appliances were 120/240V single phase. And you seem to be suggesting 120/208 2 phase (120 degree phase) difference is OK, I'd have reservations about single phase motors on this power. Plus my understanding is the target voltage is +-10% or 216V and not 208V.

In my house every AC has 2 motors. The dryer is gas with a 120V motor. Don't know what motor power an electric dry requires.

BTW Every home/condo that I'm aware of uses 120/240V single phase.

[ScottG]

It can easily be done but keep in mind that even with a 240V connection, you are still only using one phase (spit phase).